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haasguy
New member
Im gonna start w/just a 30 shot and would like to hear from those that have been running NOS for a wile. Post some tips on safe usage and Good bad and ugly stories
Just don't use it on one of the really weak motors like a Polaris 700 or something like that.
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maxwellzx
Active member
what system? what sled?
make sure and throw some race fuel in there. even a couple litres. just to be safe you never know.
i run 50% but its not nessesary..i have been running it for 2 seasons and about 20 bottles through my engine.
before you take your bottle off make sure u start the sled shut off the bottle and purge it so it doesnt blow on your hands etc...
other than that its pretty much pull the rope and go...
i like the adjustable systems because you can find the sweetspot for your machine..rather than trying a bunch of differant jets.
make sure and throw some race fuel in there. even a couple litres. just to be safe you never know.
i run 50% but its not nessesary..i have been running it for 2 seasons and about 20 bottles through my engine.
before you take your bottle off make sure u start the sled shut off the bottle and purge it so it doesnt blow on your hands etc...
other than that its pretty much pull the rope and go...
i like the adjustable systems because you can find the sweetspot for your machine..rather than trying a bunch of differant jets.
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badapple
Well-known member
It going on a 05 rmk 800 w/pipe,can,reeds,intake and clutching mods.
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haasguy
New member
Hey Phil, I'm just messing with you since I knew what you were putting it on.
Robert Lindsey
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badapple
Well-known member
B
badapple
Well-known member
Iv been doing some research about temp and how it effects pressure. Im assuming(ya i know)the under hood temp would be sufficient to keep the bottle around 60 degrees F. I would like to get the most consistent flow as possible. Is a bottle warmer something i should have?
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INDEEP
Well-known member
I run mine in my seat with a bottle warmer. I put it in there because I run a mesh hood and it would never get warm enough. Under a normal hood is fine. Keep your bottle in a warm place until your ready to ride. Then hook it up and ride. If you hook it up the night before and use a open trailer or unheated enclosed it will be half the ride till it's up to temp on cold days. I have a pressure regulator this year but I haven't tried it yet. Has anyone else added one to a carbed kit? If so hows it work?
I ran 40 shot on my 04 rev and ran it for two years never any problems. Couldnt guess how much i ran through it. Never ran any fuel other than supreme. My buddy on a 03 900 cat runs a 50 shot since day one, and also a 15.1 head. No extra fuel either.
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maxwellzx
Active member
i run a regulator...also have a guage.
a cold bottle in the morning produces about 300-600 psi depending on temp..
once warmed it jumps up to about 900-1000psi
you can tell on the higher hp shots
if you keep it low say 10-20hp the pressure doesnt make to much differance with the regulator.
adjustable regulator is the way to go tho no doubt.
i run mine close to my can to get it nice and warm..a bottle warmer might still
be a good idea because the aluminum bottle soaks up so much cold temperature even when its under the hood when you touch it its still very cold.
anyone know how warm is to warm? in psi? my guage goes into the redzone at about 1200psi?
a cold bottle in the morning produces about 300-600 psi depending on temp..
once warmed it jumps up to about 900-1000psi
you can tell on the higher hp shots
if you keep it low say 10-20hp the pressure doesnt make to much differance with the regulator.
adjustable regulator is the way to go tho no doubt.
i run mine close to my can to get it nice and warm..a bottle warmer might still
be a good idea because the aluminum bottle soaks up so much cold temperature even when its under the hood when you touch it its still very cold.
anyone know how warm is to warm? in psi? my guage goes into the redzone at about 1200psi?
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badapple
Well-known member
I read that at -40degrees the pressure is around 100-150psi. and at 98degrees it 1000-1150. I would say keep it under 100degrees F.
E
Ex-Member
ACCOUNT CLOSED
Look on the cylinder, there should be some stamped markings on the crown of it. "3AL2015" would be a 2015 PSI aluminum cylinder. Take it above that and the cylinder has to be requal'd before it can be filled or put back in service. Exception being steel cylinders with a + after the mfg/requal date, that allows a 10% overpressure. Other numbers on there would be a serial number (usually 6 or 7 characters), a month/year of manufacture and a reaqual every 5 years with a RIN number between mo/yr (Exception being steel cylinders with a star after requal date, 10-year test).
Use PV=nRT to calculate pressure, keep temp below that value and you should be good to go.
Use PV=nRT to calculate pressure, keep temp below that value and you should be good to go.
I have a 40 hp shot with a 4 lb carbon fiber bottle on an 08 XP 800, and it is mounted behind the right side panel ( in front of my MBRP lightweight can, it wont fit there with the stock muffler) It keeps my bottle plenty warm. Boondockers will try and tell you that you need a regulator to keep it consistant, i havnt had any problems with bottle temp.
Knock sensor on XP
I also run 5 gallons of 110, I am thinking about scaling back to about 2-3 gallons per tank, but it runs so stinking good with the full five that i cant talk myself into reducing it!!!!. I was told that i would need to run 1-2 gallons to keep the knock sensor on my XP happy, so i started out with 5 gallons planning to work it down but i just cant do it. I wish i could afford to run straight race gas...............the differance is freakin amazing!
I also run 5 gallons of 110, I am thinking about scaling back to about 2-3 gallons per tank, but it runs so stinking good with the full five that i cant talk myself into reducing it!!!!. I was told that i would need to run 1-2 gallons to keep the knock sensor on my XP happy, so i started out with 5 gallons planning to work it down but i just cant do it. I wish i could afford to run straight race gas...............the differance is freakin amazing!
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INDEEP
Well-known member
What difference, the smell? I'm no expert but unless your running a super high compression head or lots of timing there's no reason to run more high octane fuel. We ride with a guy that runs straight 110 in a stock motor at 5000 ft. He's just pissing his money away. Do a little research on what detonation is and tell me why your sled would run better if you ran straight race. I'm not starting a argument I'm just trying to save you some $$. Now if you increase your hit from 40hp or the pump fuel in your area is crap you may want to add more. Depending on your elevation 3 gallons a tank with premium should be fine.
hhmmmmmmm..... If you are running race fuel when it is not needed your sled will actually run better the less you put in. If you don't have the compression then don't use all that race fuel...IMO
hey, I didnt think it would make a difference either, but I was told I would need to run a little bit of race gas to keep the knock sensor from trippin on the XP's. So I started out with 5 gallons of race in the 11+ gallon tank ( so not quite 50/50) Before i even cracked the nitous bottle open , there was an obvious increase in HP and response! Maybe running straight race gas wouldnt be a good idea but for what ever reason the 5 gallons mixed in does make a big enough difference ,that i am more than willing to pay for it.................
Do you own an XP?
If you do, Maybe you should try some 110!
If not you are more than welcome to test mine out.
C'mon , i have no reason to bull**** ya........110 works well in XP's
Do you own an XP?
If you do, Maybe you should try some 110!
If not you are more than welcome to test mine out.
C'mon , i have no reason to bull**** ya........110 works well in XP's
Fact - XP's will detonate and trip the knock sensor if you only run premium with nitrous. Call Boondockers and they will verify 1-208-542-4411 ( the knock sensors are more sensative in the 08/09 models)
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