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Just a newbie here...

I have a few questions to ask while I get my toy ready. I've been reading lots on the web, watching how to videos, etc and of course you end up with questions. Most I will figure out as I learn but figured since it's early still I could ponder on some wisdom of you learned individuals.

1. If you live in the West Kootenays of BC, where would you recommend to learn to ride a snowbike? I'm not a sledder so I don't know the terrain for sleds no less snowbikes. Just this summer I started to ride a dirt bike and haven't been too many places with that either so assume nothing! I mountain bike extensively, hike trail-less mountains and backcountry ski all winter so I know certain terrain related to those activities only. I'm between Nelson and Castlegar if that helps.

2. When to start re: snow conditions? From what I've seen/read, it has been suggested that early season with no base (no consolidated snow under powder) is not good for snowbiking and I can imagine as it is for skiing more risk at getting caught by debris under the snow. Also is deep powder really an issue? (I read too many reports - and we all know everything we read on the internet is true :p ) Some reported that snowbikes don't do well in deep powder - I assume they are suggesting that a) they don't float well enough b) and/or they don't have the power to get up ontop of the snow given their weight to glide ratio

3. How often are people redoing their valves? Head? Bottoms?

4. How important is/was doing the mapping for your snowbike's engine?

5. Possible ideas for cold starting engine after it has been left overnight in the snow? One person wrote on a thread of mine they bring a small propane torch which I thought was a bit frightening given the fumes and oil all over the engine. Other ideas? I mean in the backcountry so no truck exhaust etc. Also I'm kickstarting only (2014 yz450f). I think back in the day for carb cars we use to dump a shot of methanol? in the carb in the winter if the car wouldn't start. Does that work in this case?
 
You need to go find some peeps already into snow biking in your area, lots to cover. Try your snowbike shop in Nelson, they do lots of bikes.
 
I have a few questions to ask while I get my toy ready. I've been reading lots on the web, watching how to videos, etc and of course you end up with questions. Most I will figure out as I learn but figured since it's early still I could ponder on some wisdom of you learned individuals.

1. If you live in the West Kootenays of BC, where would you recommend to learn to ride a snowbike? I'm not a sledder so I don't know the terrain for sleds no less snowbikes. Just this summer I started to ride a dirt bike and haven't been too many places with that either so assume nothing! I mountain bike extensively, hike trail-less mountains and backcountry ski all winter so I know certain terrain related to those activities only. I'm between Nelson and Castlegar if that helps.

2. When to start re: snow conditions? From what I've seen/read, it has been suggested that early season with no base (no consolidated snow under powder) is not good for snowbiking and I can imagine as it is for skiing more risk at getting caught by debris under the snow. Also is deep powder really an issue? (I read too many reports - and we all know everything we read on the internet is true :p ) Some reported that snowbikes don't do well in deep powder - I assume they are suggesting that a) they don't float well enough b) and/or they don't have the power to get up ontop of the snow given their weight to glide ratio

3. How often are people redoing their valves? Head? Bottoms?

4. How important is/was doing the mapping for your snowbike's engine?

5. Possible ideas for cold starting engine after it has been left overnight in the snow? One person wrote on a thread of mine they bring a small propane torch which I thought was a bit frightening given the fumes and oil all over the engine. Other ideas? I mean in the backcountry so no truck exhaust etc. Also I'm kickstarting only (2014 yz450f). I think back in the day for carb cars we use to dump a shot of methanol? in the carb in the winter if the car wouldn't start. Does that work in this case?
For#5 I'm the torch guy... Bring the torch just in case so you don't have to walk back to the truck. Fuel injected bikes don't leak fuel out of the carb so as long as you aim it at a clean peice of the aluminum case it won't explode. The flame can be a few inches away and it will still work. Other options are hot fire coals in a metal trash can lid slid under the bike. Or Boiling water on the block. Spray Starting fluid might help if your fuel injection programming isnt optional but usually the issue will be the engine just won't turn fast enough until the block warms up. Even with 0w40 oil it gets to be frigen cold outside overnight and will not turn over fast enough.
 
For#2. If your early season snow is shallow with no base then you can ride very slow as long as you can still see your ski hoop. If it's under the snow then you should stick to packed tracks.
If it's deep early season with no base heck yes go tear it up. Just plan ahead to stay in less steep terrain because you won't be able to climb anything and if you're ski dives under going down steep hills then go super slow in case you hit something it won't break your forks. Generally I set my bikes up for less ski pressure in the early season because your never going to float on top of it anyway and being able to wheelie and float the ski is safer this time of year.
 
For#5 I'm the torch guy... Bring the torch just in case so you don't have to walk back to the truck. Fuel injected bikes don't leak fuel out of the carb so as long as you aim it at a clean peice of the aluminum case it won't explode. The flame can be a few inches away and it will still work. Other options are hot fire coals in a metal trash can lid slid under the bike. Or Boiling water on the block. Spray Starting fluid might help if your fuel injection programming isnt optional but usually the issue will be the engine just won't turn fast enough until the block warms up. Even with 0w40 oil it gets to be frigen cold outside overnight and will not turn over fast enough.
Guess I'll maybe try it at home before trying it out in the field but makes sense as to why you need to heat the oil up. Thanx
 
For#2. If your early season snow is shallow with no base then you can ride very slow as long as you can still see your ski hoop. If it's under the snow then you should stick to packed tracks.
If it's deep early season with no base heck yes go tear it up. Just plan ahead to stay in less steep terrain because you won't be able to climb anything and if you're ski dives under going down steep hills then go super slow in case you hit something it won't break your forks. Generally I set my bikes up for less ski pressure in the early season because your never going to float on top of it anyway and being able to wheelie and float the ski is safer this time of year.
Since I'll be just learning I won't be in steep terrain for awhile. Didn't think in deep baseless powder you could get the bike up on top enough and you'd just plow the snow. I know that from skiing deep baseless snow - couldn't go fast enough to get on top of it (where we were - wasn't steep enough, only 30 degrees).

I'll keep your suggestions in mind thanx
 
You need to go find some peeps already into snow biking in your area, lots to cover. Try your snowbike shop in Nelson, they do lots of bikes.
I'll try to find someone to hook up with but they'd likely need to be beginners. However I have a buddy who sleds who will go out with me and although normally from what I read sleds and bikes don't generally play together he'd be fine hanging with me for a day or so while I learn. He wants to give it a try too so he has an ulterior motive and maybe I can convince him to convert one of his motos to a snowbike in the future :) Still need to find some easy terrain to play in though. I'll ask the guys at the shop, just thought there might be some locals online here with suggestions as well. Thanx.
 
I have a few questions to ask while I get my toy ready. I've been reading lots on the web, watching how to videos, etc and of course you end up with questions. Most I will figure out as I learn but figured since it's early still I could ponder on some wisdom of you learned individuals.

1. If you live in the West Kootenays of BC, where would you recommend to learn to ride a snowbike? I'm not a sledder so I don't know the terrain for sleds no less snowbikes. Just this summer I started to ride a dirt bike and haven't been too many places with that either so assume nothing! I mountain bike extensively, hike trail-less mountains and backcountry ski all winter so I know certain terrain related to those activities only. I'm between Nelson and Castlegar if that helps.

2. When to start re: snow conditions? From what I've seen/read, it has been suggested that early season with no base (no consolidated snow under powder) is not good for snowbiking and I can imagine as it is for skiing more risk at getting caught by debris under the snow. Also is deep powder really an issue? (I read too many reports - and we all know everything we read on the internet is true :p ) Some reported that snowbikes don't do well in deep powder - I assume they are suggesting that a) they don't float well enough b) and/or they don't have the power to get up ontop of the snow given their weight to glide ratio

3. How often are people redoing their valves? Head? Bottoms?

4. How important is/was doing the mapping for your snowbike's engine?

5. Possible ideas for cold starting engine after it has been left overnight in the snow? One person wrote on a thread of mine they bring a small propane torch which I thought was a bit frightening given the fumes and oil all over the engine. Other ideas? I mean in the backcountry so no truck exhaust etc. Also I'm kickstarting only (2014 yz450f). I think back in the day for carb cars we use to dump a shot of methanol? in the carb in the winter if the car wouldn't start. Does that work in this case?
3. On a ktm i check valves every 100 and do top ends around the 300 hr mark. Unless the bike is getting harder to start and the spark plug is getting black. This has only happened once when i used an aftermarket cylinder and piston combo. OEM seems to last much longer. I could probably do rings and push it a few more hours if i wanted as the cylinders usually look fairly good.

4. mapping is not that important on a mx race bike in my opinion. If you keep your temps up you prevent the overfueling issues that most maps are there for. If you start moding your engine much more than an intake you should probably remap. You will create a lean condition and that will make for a shorter engine life.

5. ether works good. Its not really harmful on a gas engine. Thin oil helps a lot. like 0-40 or 5-40. Pull starting or going down a hill and bump stating in 3rd gear works well. Also you can lay a 2nd bike next to it and use the track off one to spin the track on the other to start. Its kind of a pain and is best done with 4 or 5 people. but that will for sure start it.
 
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