RR. 4th shaft? That's not good. Something is being reinstalled that shouldn't be IMO. If the torque stays (bolt remains tight), even if the bearing goes the shaft should not be damaged (aligned or not).
You must be on a '14 shaft now (longer shouldered bolt for the top pulley) so there are 3 other things to pay close attention to.
The disc brake is a spacer too. Look at the inner end of the hub that tightens against the bearing. Is it deformed (not flat, mushroomed slightly into the shape of the bearing race). That disc is made of soft material (has to be for brake friction).
You can replace the disc (maybe Poo changed the design) or a better repair is the take 30 thou off that side and replace that distance with a shim of the same thickness (the ones you use for behind the secondary work great).
Now you have much more surface area to torque against the inner race. Enough that it should not mushroom again.
Next check if you have any clearance between the end of the shaft and the face of the pulley. Mine was so close to flush (if it is flush the washer will bottom out on the shaft and not apply the bolt torque to the pulley). The '14 shaft may be different but I added 10 thou to the shim between the disc and bearing to get some clearance there.
The other thing to look at closely Is the spring washer for the pulley bolt. Mine was too relaxed (flat) and the OD was too large. The OD was larger than the cast in steel insert on the pulley gear so it was actually torqueing on aluminum not steel during initial set. Not right and as soon as the aluminum gave the torque was lost (you can see the shiny on the pulley face and the outer edges of the washer).
A Doo jackshaft washer is about 100 thou less OD and made of slightly thicker better spring steel (4 loonies though lol). It returns to a conical shape after disassembly.
When you reassemble use high heat green locktite on the pulley bolt and take it to AT LEAST 45 ft lbs and let it cure over night (I also used it between the inner race and jackshaft cause it was there).
Like I said before, if the torque stays, short of a complete failure on the bearing, the inner race should not spin on the shaft.
If you take your time to straighten out the chaincase OR shim the jackshaft ( so C to C bearing to bearing is correct) you will see a lot less pulley heat.
My sled needed 50 thou behind the chaincase on the jackshaft and 30 thou outside the tunnel on the drive shaft to take out the side load on the bearings.
Not much when you consider the big picture but enough to make my bearings grumbly in 1700 miles. New bearings are happy happy lol.
