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Jackshaft alignment?

What I do

When reinstalling the jack shaft I bolt the brake bearing carrier tight. Then leave the upper chain case carrier loose until everything is bolted up w/o installing the chain case sprockets/chain. When the L side panel is bolted up, the jack shaft is installed and rotated a few times. Tighten the upper chain case bearing carrier. Then install the chain/sprockets.
Might not be everyone's process just mine. I have replaced over 25 bearing sets since '11 and used this process every time.
 
Thx motorman. I'm guessing if the brake rotor spins freely in the calliper. the shaft must be close.
Should the end of the jack shaft be flush with the hub of the brake rotor on the right side? Which should dictate how much of the shaft is remaining in the chain case? Sorry this must sound confusing?
 
Thx motorman. I'm guessing if the brake rotor spins freely in the calliper. the shaft must be close.
Should the end of the jack shaft be flush with the hub of the brake rotor on the right side? Which should dictate how much of the shaft is remaining in the chain case? Sorry this must sound confusing?
If all the spacers are in the proper placement the shaft will position correctly (between bearings) upon tightening the end cap bolts.
I use Anti-seize on the shaft (keep it out of the bolt holes) to help installation now and removal later.
 
When reinstalling the jack shaft I bolt the brake bearing carrier tight. Then leave the upper chain case carrier loose until everything is bolted up w/o installing the chain case sprockets/chain. When the L side panel is bolted up, the jack shaft is installed and rotated a few times. Tighten the upper chain case bearing carrier. Then install the chain/sprockets.
Might not be everyone's process just mine. I have replaced over 25 bearing sets since '11 and used this process every time.

Wow 25 sets! I just got done doing drivers and upper chaincase sprocket bearing. I lost my driver caseside bearing 2 rides after a rock impact. How do you test/know when to change? Mine was a total failure so it was obvious.
 
25 hours

We have been on Mountain Horses since 2010 and I believe I was the first to loose a bearing, chain, idler, sprocket, drive shaft and shock. Due to the miles we retired guys ride in Priest Lake.
So far all but one of the bearing replacements have been from failures and all made it off the mountain. Not always easy but a good day is when the bike is back in the truck.

I just did a friends '14 with 25 hours because he was worried about a noise. One bearing was rough another less so and the other two were fine.
So I would think at 25 hours change them.

The '15's will not have bearing issues due to the improved design. Allen tore my '15 down at 973 miles to check for issues before they go in to full production and the cheap China $2.05 bearings that were used (on purpose) held up great. The production '15 will have good quality bearings so they will hold up even better.
 
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