Is the Track Approach Angle of the Mountain Horse Optimal?

[Frostbite]

I was looking at my new to me snowbike on the floor of my shop and the track approach angle looks steeper than I would think it should be for optimal a deep snow application.

Where should my limiter straps be set? Is there a recommended setup?

Am I missing something?

 

[Adobe-Al]

For powder I like mine on the longest setting or #1 hole. I also have my rear preload very soft and my front preload stock. Seems to work good in powder. Not as good on the hard pack

 

[Frostbite]

Thanks Adobe-Al. I will take a look at the settings on mine.

PS: Loved your video and song!

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

reality is to have a 121 and decent footprint you end up with a semi steep approach angle. also, it seems worse then it is due to the drivers and radius of the track are visible where on a sled all you see is the gentle approach and not it going up around the drivers.

 

[xr650ryder]

Your looking at it out of it's elements

I have to keep reminding myself that the new front ski rides 1 1/2" lower in snow
than on hard pack. But may equal out when the track is taking a good bite.

My snow bike's climb better when I leave the front ski packing a trail for the track. Or at least knocking some of the air out of the snow

My point: The snow bike needs a steeper angle to get the contact patch closer to the center of mass for weigh transfer. You lighter guy's can carry the front ski and the contact patch becomes your approach angle. Haven't you noticed the a MH does't drag like a snowmobile? Try not to bring all of your sled knowledge to snow bikes these things are a different animals.

Knobbies or Tracks make happy trails!

 

[cody7thomas]

I have an SX kit and what I have done is gone up one hole on the limiter strap. This lengthens the approach angle and wont trench as much. I also have added a 1/2" shim on the bottom of the rear suspension slides. This helps couple the suspension. I made this out of some PVC pipe so I can remove them when I need to race or trail ride for some reason. I also added a 1/4" shim to the top of the slides so the ride height is slightly lowered. An individual suggested this to me on Snowest and I think it made a big difference.

 

[Frostbite]

Cody, I wonder if your setup tips work on the standard ST and LT kits?

I am ready to try your ideas if they are applicable.

 

[mnsnowhawk]

The st and lt come with the correct approach angle for powder riding. The sx has a higher approach angle. The mods that Cody did work on an sx kit to get a better angle for powder.

 

[Frostbite]

OK, got it!

Thanks

 

[powdermuncher]

If you have a bike with the adjustable shock rod shorten the shock rod and than suck in the limiter strap it makes a noticeable difference.

 

[Frostbite]

My limiters straps appear to be sucked up one spot from the longest possible already.

Here are a couple pictures of my shock rod (or what I believe to be the shock rod).

The lower rod end appears to be just in about as far as it will go but, there might be a half turn left on the upper but, it's hard to tell.

How much do you have to move it to make a difference?

 

[Adobe-Al]

I agree that a shorter limiter strap decreases the approach angle. But I have found that it also tends to submerge my ski more and make it hard to loft over things. So do you sink your ski or your track?

 

[Scott]

I agree that a shorter limiter strap decreases the approach angle. But I have found that it also tends to submerge my ski more and make it hard to loft over things. So do you sink your ski or your track?

I'm not a snowbike guy, I happened to see this post on the treadmill.

If bike physics are anything like the sled physics, then tightening the limiters will always give more ski pressure. There is always a point of diminishing returns.

 

[retired motoman]

I have an SX kit and what I have done is gone up one hole on the limiter strap. This lengthens the approach angle and wont trench as much. I also have added a 1/2" shim on the bottom of the rear suspension slides. This helps couple the suspension. I made this out of some PVC pipe so I can remove them when I need to race or trail ride for some reason. I also added a 1/4" shim to the top of the slides so the ride height is slightly lowered. An individual suggested this to me on Snowest and I think it made a big difference.

This will also work on the ST and LT's.
We take all shims out and let the limiter full out for the fast trail then do the above for deep powder. Instead of pvc pipe we use 1/2" steel split washers and stack 1/8" nylon washers (purchase at Ace hardware) with a slit to install and remove. Make a noticeable improvement.

 

[powdermuncher]

I agree that a shorter limiter strap decreases the approach angle. But I have found that it also tends to submerge my ski more and make it hard to loft over things. So do you sink your ski or your track?

Shortening the shock rod gives you more ski lift --- that is why you can suck up the limiter strap if you shorten the shock rod.

On the Ktm 530 we did cut of 1/8 inch on each end of the shock rod to allow for some extra adjustment. That will allow you to suck in the limiter strap by at least one hole while still having more ski lift than before.

We have done this for the last 2 years now Timbersled is doing similar setups.

cheers……..

 

[Frostbite]

Shortening the shock rod makes sense to me and it would also drop the seat height, right?

That's not a bad thing in my book.

 

[powdermuncher]

Shortening the shock rod makes sense to me and it would also drop the seat height, right?

That's not a bad thing in my book.

It does reduce the seat hight and makes the bike more stable.

The lower rear end also takes weight of the fork and reduces it blowing thought the stroke as is so common on snow bike set ups.

All in all a more balanced setup.

 

[Adobe-Al]

Shortening the shock rod gives you more ski lift --- that is why you can suck up the limiter strap if you shorten the shock rod.

On the Ktm 530 we did cut of 1/8 inch on each end of the shock rod to allow for some extra adjustment. That will allow you to suck in the limiter strap by at least one hole while still having more ski lift than before.

We have done this for the last 2 years now Timbersled is doing similar setups.

cheers……..

I have an adjustable shock rod, I wonder what the stock length is for a CRF450? and I take it, you have an adjustable one with the ends cut off with eyelets screwed in more correct? and what strap hole are you using? Thanks for the info

 

[dirtrebel]

I have an adjustable shock rod, I wonder what the stock length is for a CRF450? and I take it, you have an adjustable one with the ends cut off with eyelets screwed in more correct? and what strap hole are you using? Thanks for the info

http://www.timbersled.com/mhfitkitchart.htm

 

[Adobe-Al]

http://www.timbersled.com/mhfitkitchart.htm

Thanks-I didn't realize it had the length on the left side of the chart