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IQ track swap

So last season I chewed up some paddles on my 08 TD8 155". Turns out that sick hill I trenched up and over last season was nothing but a bunch of jagged shale rock. Thus my track suffered a bunch of bodily injury.

So I went looking for tracks this summer. I ended up scoring a great great deal on a 2011 assault 155" take off track. This was not my first choice as all you hear about is how the polaris tracks suck but it was a direct bolt in (minimal work) and i feel that lil spooling thingy on the end of my pipe might just be able to make enough track speed to make me smile. Plus you gain clearence at the front o the tunnel. Huge Huge thanks to Randy Lokey who pretty much did everything on this install. He is a AC tech in Durango and very good with the wrenchs. This job only took three hours, 1 AC tech, another drunk a$$ friend (Dan Smith), a 18 pack of coors lite and some sweet cheeba. Was not nearlyas hard as I anticipated. I learned alot so hope this thread may help somene.......

First Photo: Reason for the swap, origional 2.4 track is folded over and there are at least three more sections of track that look just like this.....
trackswap11-20-10010.jpg


Photo #2: start by removing the secondary
trackswap11-20-10007.jpg


Photo #3: then remove the turbo, oil tank and the chaincase cover. You will have to remove the bottom gear. On the other side remove the speedo flange.
trackswap11-20-10014.jpg


Photo #4: Next drop the skid, 4 bolts. A tip will be to compress your skid as it will come in and out easier
trackswap11-20-10018.jpg


Photo #5: At this point the drive shaft is ready to come out. This was easiest with two people, at times a rubber mallet and the sled on its side. Once out its time to pull the track, have a beer at half way and burn one for the snow gods.
trackswap11-20-10020.jpg


Now you put in your new track and kinda reverse the order of operations. This is a great time to inspect some stuff. Make sure your chaincase gasket is ok. Clean your clutchs. Grease all zerks on rear skid. Check all hose and tubing for signs of dry rot. Inspect your pull start rope. Of cours make sure you have fresh fluid filled to proper levels all thru engine. Probably forgetting something but you get the point. Track tension once instlled!

Photo #6: Get the skid, chaicase, turbo... etc... etc... etc all reinstalled
trackswap11-20-10012.jpg


Now your track is back in and you can check out the spoils of you work. You can also hear your sled echo off the surrounding mountains at 1am, Silverton is pretty quite that time of night.

Photo #7: Track is in, looks great and provides a bit more clearence up front
trackswap11-20-10024.jpg


Photo #8: View under tunnel
trackswap11-20-10023.jpg


Now we just need some snow to try this bad boy out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So there it is. How to spend a friday night in slverton. Hope this helps somebody as I sure learned alot. Thanks again to Randy Lokey and Dan Smith for help on the install.
 
I spent my first day out with my new assault 155 track on my 08 Turbo D8. I love this track. In almost all conditions today I felt it was an improvement over the stock 5.1 track. When I got into 2+ feet of powder I could tell it trenched a bit more but the turbo got it right up on top. On the trail the difference is remarkable. I hooked instant. Allowed me to pull wheelies on the trail, before I would just spin like a mofo. Compared to the stock track this is awesome. I love the stiffer track.
 
Looks good.

There are two things I do differently.
1) Use two 3/8" metal rods about 18" long to put through the skid mounting holes with the track still up in the tunnel. I put these in when I am either putting the skid in or taking it out. It helps keep the track up out of the way so the inside nubbins on the track don't continually grab the suspension.

2) I have some pieces of 1"x2" wood about 16" long that I lay cross ways in the bottom of the track under the hyfax. When I am ready to slide the rear skid in or out, it scoots across these pieces of wood instead of fighting me on the nubbins on the bottom as the wood is slightly higher than the rows of nubbins.

I am usually working on my sleds by myself, so I come up with some quick tips to keep from fighting it too much.
 
Looks good.

There are two things I do differently.
1) Use two 3/8" metal rods about 18" long to put through the skid mounting holes with the track still up in the tunnel. I put these in when I am either putting the skid in or taking it out. It helps keep the track up out of the way so the inside nubbins on the track don't continually grab the suspension.

2) I have some pieces of 1"x2" wood about 16" long that I lay cross ways in the bottom of the track under the hyfax. When I am ready to slide the rear skid in or out, it scoots across these pieces of wood instead of fighting me on the nubbins on the bottom as the wood is slightly higher than the rows of nubbins.

I am usually working on my sleds by myself, so I come up with some quick tips to keep from fighting it too much.



Nice tips for sure. This was def a learning expierence for me. But now looking back it was very simple and strait forward.
 
Do you have to remove the circ-clip to get the axle out?




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Edit, no need to remove the Circ-Clip. The clip is there to hold the bearing in. Only needed to remove it if you are changing out the bearing.
 
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if this is the same as my 07 switchback which i suspect it is, you don't evn have to touch the chain case. I swapped in a series 4 track last weekend, driveshaft just sides out of the chaincase.

Nice though, looks good!
 
if this is the same as my 07 switchback which i suspect it is, you don't evn have to touch the chain case. I swapped in a series 4 track last weekend, driveshaft just sides out of the chaincase.

Nice though, looks good!

So you are leaving the chaincase cover on? I know it slides right off but how do you get the drive shaft back in? Sure it will slide into the case but how do you get the gear on?
 
Either pre-drain the chain oil, or tip the sled on its clutch side and remove the cover. Remove gears and chain then suck out the oil with an old (or new) turkey baster type tool.

Once the gears are off and the speedo side cover and bearing is loose, the drive shaft should slide to the clutch side and drop out of the chaincase bearing.

It doesn't take me that long to just unbolt the chain case by then, I think it actually speeds up the reinstall as you aren't trying to fish the drive shaft into such a small hole while standing on your head. Again, I'm usually doing it by myself. With the case off and the shaft back in, it is pretty easy to guide the case back down over the shaft and bolt it back up.
 
So you are leaving the chaincase cover on? I know it slides right off but how do you get the drive shaft back in? Sure it will slide into the case but how do you get the gear on?

Correct, I didn't even touch the chaincase. When the clutch side is undone the shaft can slide in/out of the chaincase. The clutch side is the only think holding it in....just slid in and out of the gear.
 
So you can do it without removing the chaincase cover?

Doesn't the gear move inside the chaincase once the driveshaft is removed?


Edit. I just read the post above yours. That is how I did it. I asked about the snap ring and then figured it out a few minutes later.

The rear suspension was a major pain to put back on by myself. Lol


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MHA, you can't pull the drive shaft w/o opening the chaincase, loosening the chain, and removing the lower gear first.
 
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