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IQ fuel line extension

M

MNIQR

Well-known member
Im dropping a 800 CFI motor in my IQR. I had everything layed out for fuel line routing and what not but didnt take into account a few things that would be in the way when fully assembled making my fuel line routing alittle longer.

So my question is do anyone know if anyone makes or where to get the stuff to make a 2" extension for the pressure side (the line that has the fuel filer built into it) with the factory push together connectors.
Friend of mine mentioned the fuel pressure testing tool with some mods but im unsure if that will work or not.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
 
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Thanks for the tip. I lookied on the site, didnt see anything close. Anyone know the name of the style on connector these fuel lines use? I figure ill be a better answer to my question to them if i know the name of the connectors im asking about.
 
Fuel line quick disconnect fitting is what they are called. If there are no evco's where you are located, then look for a similar company or one that does tractor hydraulic lines and they usually do all type of lines including fuel lines and they could build you one.
 
"NAPA MATT" Could help you with some part numbers.

Know of female ends.. but not the male side...

This may help...

Here is a "cut/paste", with permission, from an excellent post by Polar Express

Polar Express :
Replacement fuel filter for Dragons

Given the high cost of the factory fuel filter, the small size, and the hard-to-get-too factor, I decided to follow EricWs lead, and retro on different filter. In his write-up, the sleds have a turbo, and thus, no stock airbox. Our sleds are not turbo’ed (yet), and so we have the space challenge of the stock airbox to work around. Wait…. Maybe this is the reason to justify putting on a turbo!!!!!!

I jumped on the Wix site, and found several options. The one I selected was Wix # 33199. (NAPA # 3199) I did this because it’s rated for EFI, (10 Microns) and if it can supply the Northstar V8 platform, I figure it’s fine for a snowmobile. Also, it’s a reasonable size.


This filter uses 5/16” quick connectors on each end, it actually comes with the plastic clips on the filter, but they come off easily. Dorman makes the 5/16” quick dis-connectors. NAPA (NAPA # 730-4926), and CarQuest (CarQuest # 800-120) carry them.

My concept differs from EricW’s idea in a few ways; my chosen filter uses 5/16” inlet and outlet fittings. The outlet on the top of the fuel tank is also a 5/16”, so I made a hose with two ends that is a little more than a foot long, one end connects to the pressure side of the tank fittings, the other end to the inlet of the filter. The third disconnect fitting goes on the outlet of the filter, and about 3 feet of line get you to the fuel rail. I cut off the factory crip-on at the fuel rail, and put on the EFI fuel line. I chose 5/16” fuel line, EFI rated, and it’s not cheap. It’s about $6/foot, but you only have to buy it once.

Parts list:
5’ 5/16 EFI fuel line (~$30)
(3) 5/16” quick disconnects (~30)
(4) premium hose clamps (~$5)
fuel filter (~$8)

So, yes, doing this retrofit costs you as much as one Factory Polaris fuel filter, but…. I can change my filter in about a minute, and it only costs me $8 to do so. When it is easy, and cheap, it gets done more frequently.

Based on my discussions with Curt @ Fastrax, he is of the opinion that a 2-micron filter would be ideal, but so far, we have not found a filter with that small of filtration in a reasonable size for our application. (I’m not saying it doesn’t exist, we just don’t know of one). I’ll agree that 2-microns would be nice, but I suspect that the 10-micron filter from Wix is likely better than what is available from Polaris, and certainly less expensive.

The first one I did was on my wife’s D7, and we were replacing the motor, so access was easy (on the bench). On my D8, however, I did it in the sled. I pulled the secondary, pulled the PTO side torque brace, and used a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to cut the steel crimp. Worked like a champ. With the location, the hoses needed to be longer, to make larger curves, and avoid crimping. Not really a big deal.


Here are some pics. Feel free to PM [Polar Express] with any questions.

P4062518.jpg


P4062519.jpg


P4062520.jpg
 
TY all.
MH im hoping to keep it looking factory if possible.
Can anyone verify the 900 filter/hose assembly is a few inches longer than the 800 CFI assembly?
 
Jason,

I thought the 900's were shorter... could be wrong though...

I'm not sure if the outlet for the filter, that plugs into the fuel rail, is 5/16" or 3/8" on the 900 filters either (I'm thinking 5/16")

The 800's are 3/8" coming out of the filter (to the rail) if I'm not mistaken.

Posted up the question in the 900 section... you should see some answers there.

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2378813
 
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Here are a couple of pics from EricW...

SPi replacement 900 filter... looks short.
100_6904.jpg


Stock 800 CFi filter...
100_6795.jpg


Here is photo of the stock location for the stock filter on a 800 Dragon..It is pretty tight on a dragon beween the airbox and the belt guard assy....
Not sure how much room you have on your IQR

If you have the room... this would look pretty "factory"

If you wanted... you could take your hose assy to a good hydraulic hose shop or welding supply shop that makes custom lines and have them crimp on brass ferrules for a more factory look.

Pics001-2.jpg



BTW... BADAZZZ build!!
 
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