thanks alot for the info
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internal wasgate/ boost questions
- Thread starter skibum_1260
- Start date
i would say im not getting any boost until 6k rpm regardless of the throttle position
C
champyfz450
Well-known member
You wouldn't by chance be trying the sled on a sled hoist would you? If so, she won't show much boost, if any at all without being under load
nope just got back from wyoming last week first time on the sled and thats where i was having the issues. but that is good to know and thats how i was planning on messing around with it back here in iowa, how else can test things in the off season besides getting out in a field and trying to keep it cool?
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theshadowrider
Well-known member
So, to be clear you are just installing this turbo on your sled for the first time and its used? Did it work correctly when it came off the previous sled? I assume it has the 8 pound actuator? Couple of things to check. Did the arm from the waste gate get taken off for some reason and installed incorrectly. ie. wastegate open at idle. The wastegate should be closed shut tight engine off. Next, you may have lines hooked up incorrectly. Is boost getting to the wastegate actuator. Double check all of your lines are ran correct from the EBC and the solenoid to the actuator. Lastly, I assume you have checked for boost leaks? FYI Putting different wastegate actuator is not going to help.
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Yes its a used turbo on a used sled, and just rode it 3 days in wyoming for the first time. Came off a working sled, but when i got it the actuator wasnt adjusted where boondocker suggests so thats they only real thing i changed. (knurled part all the way in showing half of the screw heads)
I havent check for boost leaks, how do i pressurize the system to find that out?
Its got the ebc so it just has the line from that going to the actuator, does this do pressure or vacuum when it reaches the limit? And with this isn't the adjustment of the actuator irrelivent as the ebc will hold pressure until it reaches the max set boost amount anyway(granted its building enough pressure to reach it)
First turbo, thanks for all the info so far!
I havent check for boost leaks, how do i pressurize the system to find that out?
Its got the ebc so it just has the line from that going to the actuator, does this do pressure or vacuum when it reaches the limit? And with this isn't the adjustment of the actuator irrelivent as the ebc will hold pressure until it reaches the max set boost amount anyway(granted its building enough pressure to reach it)
First turbo, thanks for all the info so far!
T
theshadowrider
Well-known member
Okay,
So I think this is your problem. I think that your wastgate is partially open and its dumping boost out the partially open wastgate and you are not getting 5 lbs until you get to 6k on the rpms once excessive amount of boost is built. You could confirm this by pulling your stats off your fuel controller and see what the charge temps are. So, the adjustable arm from the actuator to the wastgate is not adjusted correctly. The flapper in the exhaust side of the turbo should be closed at idle. If you adjusted the arm incorrectly then the "flapper" is slightly open then boost is leaking out the wastegate and would give you the symptoms that you are having. If you grab the arm on the wastegate you should be able to move the wastegate open, and then let go and hear clink in the exhaust side of the turbo as it closes completely. Or you can take off your muffler and look in to verify the wastegate is closed at idle. The actuator has boost applied to it to, from the ebc, to open the wastegate dumping boost. It will matter if it is adjusted incorrectly because if the wastegate is partially open at idle it doesn't matter how hard the EBC tries to keep it closed you will still loose boost. Don't worry about checking boost leaks until you have your wastgate adjusted correctly.
The picture is an example of how you DO NOT want it to look like. As you can see boost would be leaking and not building until high rpms.
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excellent info and i bet thats what was going on, but ive changed so much stuff now while i was on the mnt trying to get it right i need to start from scratch so i guess whats the procedure for adjusting the arm and then adjusting the actuator? should there be spring tension holding the actuator arm as well at idle or is closed as good as closed?
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TurboMatt
Well-known member
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but if I was going to adjust the arm I'd put slight preload(maybe a half of a turn on the adjustment arm) on it to insure it's all the way held shut.
There really is no way other adjustment to the arm/actuator other than that.
As far as testing during the summer, there really is no good way. You can't build boost on the track stand.
There really is no way other adjustment to the arm/actuator other than that.
As far as testing during the summer, there really is no good way. You can't build boost on the track stand.
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ok so next question, why have an adjustable actuator when im also using the ebc?
and if adjustment is needed on that how would i go about it?
i will be running around 4 or 5 lbs at sea level and then around 10 at elevation a couple times a year, but cant i just use my ebc only to make the adjustments?
and if adjustment is needed on that how would i go about it?
i will be running around 4 or 5 lbs at sea level and then around 10 at elevation a couple times a year, but cant i just use my ebc only to make the adjustments?
T
TurboMatt
Well-known member
You won't be using the actuator to make adjustments. All boost adjustments will be made via the ebc. The arm is adjustable basically just to set the preload(maybe preload isn't the best word, set the position of the flapper) on the flapper like I described earlier. It should really just be a one time adjustment. You can make adjustments with the arm but its not really the right way. From there all boost #'s will be adjusted by boost controller(ebc)
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theshadowrider
Well-known member
I think he is referring to an adjustable actuator, not the adjustable actuator arm. I have never used the adjustable actuator, or even seen one. One my sled, as well as most other turbos, we run a fixed actuator. Most are 8 lbs, and some run 6 lbs. You cannot adjust the ebc to go any lower than the spring set in the actuator. So, on my sled I have a 8 lbs actuator, so if I set 6 lbs in my ebc, the lowest boost I can run is 8. Yet above 8 the ebc takes care of. So I think the thinking is adjust the actuator to your lowest boost setting desired, then the ebc will take care of boost adjustments above the lowest boost setting of the actuator. I am not sure how the adjustable actuator works, not seeing one before, but does the adjustment of the actuator spring effect the length of the actuator arm? Personally I think I would just put in a 6 actuator and call it good.
Why did the guy who owned this turbo kit before pull it off and sell it to you? Was he getting the desired boost levels that you want? What was your reasoning for trying to adjust the actuator? Was it working correctly on your sled prior to adjusting it?
Have you verified if your waste gate, " flapper" is closed yet?
ok getting close! got the wastgate arm adjusted with about a turn of preload of spring on it, and its building great boost now. i turned down the ebc to about 3 lbs but its still building to around 4/ 4.5, so do i need to take a bit of spring preload off the actuator or is there another ebc adjustment i need to do. thanks for all the help so far.
your wastegate may only allow to go to 4 or 5 lbs. i dont have the low elevation spring and mine is about 8 i think. isnt 5 or 6 lbs safe on pump gas at about any elevation?
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theshadowrider
Well-known member
There is nothing you adjust on the ebc, other than setting the boost. I would call it good and not try to go lower than 4 lbs, because once you get it on the snow next year, your going to get use to 4 lbs real quick and you will be turning it up. Just wait and see! I thought I would run my at 6 lbs, by the end of the season I was up to 12! (dragon)
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TurboMatt
Well-known member
Ya 4/4.5psi is very low for a 2 stroke turbo sled with internal wastegate. There are guys in the Cat turbo forum who do all kinds of tricks(porting wg, adjusting wg arm) to try and get their boost that low at low alt and can't get it below 5-6 even with low boost actuator. Anything less that 5psi is a waste of time and money. I you only want 4psi power, you don't need to be boosted, unless you just like telling people your sled has a turbo and thats all.
