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Intermittent power valve operation, not relays.

Madtown

Well-known member
Premium Member
So my friends 16 Axys SKS 155 has been a running nightmare since he bought it. It has a 16 Boondocker turbo kit on it as well. Anyway the power valves will not operate at times. Parts replaced so far are relays, PV cable & actuator from a known good sled. We removed the Boondocker control box temporarily & still same issue. Will reach 6,200 on stand & that's it with intermittent PV operation. No faults stored when checking with Digital Wrench. Possible issue with Polaris ECU? The TPS has been checked for correct setting using a multimeter as well. Could a bad TPS cause a incorrect reading & cause the PV's not to open? Any help appreciated as we are at stumped.
 
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There's also a pwm converter located in the bag down by the oil tank/voltage regulator. It is responsible for converting the digital signal from the ecu to anolog for the ev actuator. They had a bad batch go in the axys in 17 and lots of dealers had this issue. I'd swap that out as well. Its a black epoxy filled cylinder with I believe 3 wires coming out of the top(don't remember the colors but I'm pretty sure purple,green, and white or black)

Edit:there's also another relay that's located in the same bag/cluster that I believe is responsible for load shedding. Nah want to try that
 
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There's also a pow converter located in the bag down by the oil tank/voltage regulator. It is responsible for converting the digital signal from the ecu to anolog for the ev actuator. They had a bad batch go in the axys in 17 and lots of dealers had this issue. I'd swap that out as well. Its a black epoxy filled cylinder with I believe 3 wires coming out of the top(don't remember the colors but I'm pretty sure purple,green, and white or black)

Edit:there's also another relay that's located in the same bag/cluster that I believe is responsible for load shedding. Nah want to try that



^^^^^^ PWM converter is what is in the bag and that should be checked^^^

Also check that third relay.

Check for good grounds.

You can swap out ECU with a known good 2016 ECU (remember that ECUs are coded for injector color AND oil pump output).

Stator

Wire harness
 
Update. Swapped PWM converter, 3rd relay and ECU from known good sled. No change. Tested TPM sensor and the WOT reading is .15 low. Only reads 4.14.

Best way to verify good stator?
 
Wot tps voltage seems low. I’m guessing the idle and or base voltage is incorrect. What’s the idle TPS voltage?
 
Update. Swapped PWM converter, 3rd relay and ECU from known good sled. No change. Tested TPM sensor and the WOT reading is .15 low. Only reads 4.14.

Best way to verify good stator?

Check the TPS base setting.... throttle cable needs to be unhooked and idle adjusting screw backed off. Base should be .690-.710 Shoot for .700
Idle setting is .930 but if you ride above 8000ft set it to .940, it will idle better.
 
Check the TPS base setting.... throttle cable needs to be unhooked and idle adjusting screw backed off. Base should be .690-.710 Shoot for .700
Idle setting is .930 but if you ride above 8000ft set it to .940, it will idle better.

Before any adjustments I would check tps connections and pcm connections(unplugging and plugging back in sometimes all it takes). Do visual of pins and any signs of corrosion will need cleaning.

Idle voltage spec is .930-950v. Personally I aim for .943 with a meter no matter where you ride as heat soak temperatures can effect these reading slightly and you want to be in the spec range. Also if your using a meter to read your voltage instead of a digital wrench. Most meters read .702 and .943 (including flukes and cheap ones) when a digital wrench reads .700 and .940

After all this if your WOT voltage isn’t above 4.28v- pull on the cable by handle to see if it changes as the cable length maybneed adjustment. If your adjusting just make sure there’s still atleast .030” free play before throttle plates start to move with throttle. If still can’t get it you probably need a new tps.
 
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