Intake Problems on M series?
- Thread starter cat rider
- Start date
That sled must be carbed....my stuff doesn't look the same...should I be running this with my EFI machine?
no thats an efi machine you can see the round dot ecu in the pic, its actually pretty close to the same way i did my xfire. i wish i would've thought of the bra though.
intake noise
I wouldn't advise using any intake that is involving your belly pan ,last time i checked sleds don't breath snow. Snopro style intakes as listed above were created for snocross not mountain riding. Behind the windshield on a vertical surface is the best policy as history teaches us. Simple science teaches us alot.
I wouldn't advise using any intake that is involving your belly pan ,last time i checked sleds don't breath snow. Snopro style intakes as listed above were created for snocross not mountain riding. Behind the windshield on a vertical surface is the best policy as history teaches us. Simple science teaches us alot.
but if you read the above posts, most of the guys that have modded the intake report back saying no bogging what-so-ever. pretty hard to argue with that, no? i too have a bogging issue on my 06 m6 and will be trying out the bdx intake and moving the factory screens down to the front bumper like was posted above.
cant argue with success.
clarence
cant argue with success.
clarence
just got my bdx in. SICK!!!!! ur gona love it.
I ran the Cutler set up last season.
Although it require a few hours to perfectly fit the block off shelf, I felt it was a better kit. I did run it without the block shelf to see the difference - it was surprising that the engine just wasn't fully there. Egts a tad higher too. Well not really- we all know that cold clean air burns better than hot, dusty, exhausted air- don't even try arguing me.
I also had two 1.5" holes drilled right above the filter in the shelf (1.5" frogskinz attached)- blocked off in low snow with duct tape, opened up in deep snow.
Covering the hood vents with Dale's kit OR fabbing your own out of petmesh is also a must.
The frogskinz products Dale is selling work awesome- just make sure to have a smooth clean surface to stick them to. And they STICK. Drill those holes like in the pics above- I hogged out all the plastic and paid the price of ice chunks in my intake from the sled towing me out. (electrical problem) (I'm on the 4th ecu on my 2008) ($8000 in parts) (all warranty)
anyhow, I feel that a block off plate is necessary to get all the benefits of a true cold air intake. Cause if it ain't sucking in cold air, it ain't no cold air intake. Sorry.
Although it require a few hours to perfectly fit the block off shelf, I felt it was a better kit. I did run it without the block shelf to see the difference - it was surprising that the engine just wasn't fully there. Egts a tad higher too. Well not really- we all know that cold clean air burns better than hot, dusty, exhausted air- don't even try arguing me.
I also had two 1.5" holes drilled right above the filter in the shelf (1.5" frogskinz attached)- blocked off in low snow with duct tape, opened up in deep snow.
Covering the hood vents with Dale's kit OR fabbing your own out of petmesh is also a must.
The frogskinz products Dale is selling work awesome- just make sure to have a smooth clean surface to stick them to. And they STICK. Drill those holes like in the pics above- I hogged out all the plastic and paid the price of ice chunks in my intake from the sled towing me out. (electrical problem) (I'm on the 4th ecu on my 2008) ($8000 in parts) (all warranty)
anyhow, I feel that a block off plate is necessary to get all the benefits of a true cold air intake. Cause if it ain't sucking in cold air, it ain't no cold air intake. Sorry.
Dale has got some skinz that cover the hood vents too. That bra thing I find looks a little tacky.
I left the two ribs in the hull as is, and drilled out the sides. Which as I said above that I'm gonna re-do with 1" or 1 1/4" holes.
I left the two ribs in the hull as is, and drilled out the sides. Which as I said above that I'm gonna re-do with 1" or 1 1/4" holes.
U
Uller
Member
Additional Pics
I went home last night and took a few pics of all my venting & exhaust mods (plus my trick speedo mod). Take a look below.
Parts:
Glue (from Home Depot)
Pet Screen (from Home Depot)
Timbersled Intake Kit
Timbersled Clutch Vent Kit
This glue is clear, dries fast and has held for the last two seasons. I just cleaned the hood real good and put the glue on the hood around the opening. The screen will kinda stick to it (sometimes).
You then work your way along the screen pushing the glue through the material while putting tension on it to create a tight fit.
After adding the front and rear clutch venting (from Timbersled) I started to get some snow around my clutches. I added a second layer of pet screen to the side vent panel and 1 layer to the rear screen.
I also added screen to the top vents in the hood (below the headlight) No more snow in the clutches.
I took the top vent from the stock air intake and mounted it below the intake filter pods.
I went home last night and took a few pics of all my venting & exhaust mods (plus my trick speedo mod). Take a look below.
Parts:
Glue (from Home Depot)
Pet Screen (from Home Depot)
Timbersled Intake Kit
Timbersled Clutch Vent Kit
This glue is clear, dries fast and has held for the last two seasons. I just cleaned the hood real good and put the glue on the hood around the opening. The screen will kinda stick to it (sometimes).
You then work your way along the screen pushing the glue through the material while putting tension on it to create a tight fit.
After adding the front and rear clutch venting (from Timbersled) I started to get some snow around my clutches. I added a second layer of pet screen to the side vent panel and 1 layer to the rear screen.
I also added screen to the top vents in the hood (below the headlight) No more snow in the clutches.
I took the top vent from the stock air intake and mounted it below the intake filter pods.
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U
Uller
Member
More
Exhaust Bog Fix: The stock exhaust shield from an 08 M1000 (it is larger than the ones for the M7/M8). I trimmed and slightly reshaped it to fit over the stock shield on my M7.
It seems to cut a traugh through the snow and will always allow the exhaust gasses to escape. No more exhaust bog.
Here is my speedo mod. I really hated not being able to see what RPMs I was running while standing (I always stand so this is a problem).
I cut out the curved portion and fabricated some plexi to fill the hole. Just used some strips of metal and riveted them between the plexi and the hood.
Seems to work great and I think it looks kinda trick too. I probably could have made it a little cleaner however I not selling it to you guys (maybe I should though????)
Exhaust Bog Fix: The stock exhaust shield from an 08 M1000 (it is larger than the ones for the M7/M8). I trimmed and slightly reshaped it to fit over the stock shield on my M7.
It seems to cut a traugh through the snow and will always allow the exhaust gasses to escape. No more exhaust bog.
Here is my speedo mod. I really hated not being able to see what RPMs I was running while standing (I always stand so this is a problem).
I cut out the curved portion and fabricated some plexi to fill the hole. Just used some strips of metal and riveted them between the plexi and the hood.
Seems to work great and I think it looks kinda trick too. I probably could have made it a little cleaner however I not selling it to you guys (maybe I should though????)
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using the stock top vent in the belly pan area is a sweet idea, i'm doing that like tonight.
If the snow you ride in is dry, and fluffy. Nothing works as good as a stock intake, no matter what everybody says. In my mind there are pros and cons to each one. For me, the modified intake is awesome 70% of the time, but it sure makes for a frustrating time on the 30% days.
Exhaust Bog Fix: The stock exhaust shield from an 08 M1000 (it is larger than the ones for the M7/M8). I trimmed and slightly reshaped it to fit over the stock shield on my M7.
It seems to cut a traugh through the snow and will always allow the exhaust gasses to escape. No more exhaust bog.
Here is my speedo mod. I really hated not being able to see what RPMs I was running while standing (I always stand so this is a problem).
I cut out the curved portion and fabricated some plexi to fill the hole. Just used some strips of metal and riveted them between the plexi and the hood.
Seems to work great and I think it looks kinda trick too. I probably could have made it a little cleaner however I not selling it to you guys (maybe I should though????)
I really like what you did with the speedo/tach. Do you find that you need to clean the snow off it more often now?
U
Uller
Member
Final Words
So, here is my take on what I have done and why I did it.
Prior to changing my intake and adding venting I researched the **** out of it and asked a lot of questions on SnoWest. I also paid real close attention to the sled reviews and pics in the magazines.
I got the ideas for a lot of the things I have done from professional sled builders such as Volk and the mods he has done to Burandt's machines.
Multiple shops/people have commented about the stock air intake being the best as far as performance goes. They very well might be right however, my feelings are that the extra couple of horses
the stock cold air intake provides really don't matter if it is completely choked off due to snow on the "shelf". That led me to decide that I'll sacrifice a little power (maybe) to have a machine which won't intake bog.
My venting has been a work in progress.
I first added the stock vents to the nose cone. After a couple of days of riding in deep snow I did experience bogging cause not enough cool air was being taken in. So, I added more vents.
I got some snow under the hood so I added more vents and so on. You are looking at 3 seasons of adding vents. I haven't experienced any "hot air" bogging in the last year and a half.
So, I feel what I have done works extremely well without adding the block off shelf that some of the aftermarket kits have. Example: Volk ($450ish), Black Box ($400ish).
To me the shelf recreates the "plenum" of the stock system. I feel the machine would run for a little while just off the fresh air inside the stock air box, if the vents were covered,
then once that air ran out the machine wouldn't run. So, if your nose cone vents were covered with the shelf on it will run for a bit then get choked off or try to pull air from the engine
compartment but that won't work too well cause you have tried to seal it real well. If my vents get plugged I will draw air in from the engine area and the machine won't run at its
optimum but, and a big but, it will still run with ample power.
My theory is this: while in motion air flows in through the front venting and enters the air intake system. The incoming air is pushing all hot air up and out the back of the machine and that hot air
won't be moving forward and into the intake unless the machine isn't moving. At that point I really don't care too much cause I ain't moving. (Prior to this season I'll be adding vents to either
side of the speedo to aid in the expulsion of hot air.) I also removed the stock vent screens from their stock locations and added pet screen cause I don't think the flowrite material allows for easy air flow.
Let me just say this; The venting that I have done probably isn't for everyone. I live and ride out in Washington where we have extremely wet snow compared to other locations.
So, I don't have to worry about the really powdery snow that can make it through my vent system and the light, powdery snow probably won't sit on the "Shelf" and cause my problems to begin with.
And again, I do not/have not experienced any bogging (intake or exhaust) to date with all the vent/intake/exhaust mods I have done to my machine. And, we had some REALLY deep days last season.
Mr. Monkey: Thanks for the comment. I don't think I really get too much more snow on the speedo. The small windscreen seems to deflect most of it. The only snow that sticks to the speedo is the blow around the
windscreen stuff and that would stick to it in the stock configuration.
1 more thing: I added foam weatherstriping between the nose cone and the hood in the very front. That seems to be the only place where the hood and body don't have a good seal. Worked really well and its cheap.
So, here is my take on what I have done and why I did it.
Prior to changing my intake and adding venting I researched the **** out of it and asked a lot of questions on SnoWest. I also paid real close attention to the sled reviews and pics in the magazines.
I got the ideas for a lot of the things I have done from professional sled builders such as Volk and the mods he has done to Burandt's machines.
Multiple shops/people have commented about the stock air intake being the best as far as performance goes. They very well might be right however, my feelings are that the extra couple of horses
the stock cold air intake provides really don't matter if it is completely choked off due to snow on the "shelf". That led me to decide that I'll sacrifice a little power (maybe) to have a machine which won't intake bog.
My venting has been a work in progress.
I first added the stock vents to the nose cone. After a couple of days of riding in deep snow I did experience bogging cause not enough cool air was being taken in. So, I added more vents.
I got some snow under the hood so I added more vents and so on. You are looking at 3 seasons of adding vents. I haven't experienced any "hot air" bogging in the last year and a half.
So, I feel what I have done works extremely well without adding the block off shelf that some of the aftermarket kits have. Example: Volk ($450ish), Black Box ($400ish).
To me the shelf recreates the "plenum" of the stock system. I feel the machine would run for a little while just off the fresh air inside the stock air box, if the vents were covered,
then once that air ran out the machine wouldn't run. So, if your nose cone vents were covered with the shelf on it will run for a bit then get choked off or try to pull air from the engine
compartment but that won't work too well cause you have tried to seal it real well. If my vents get plugged I will draw air in from the engine area and the machine won't run at its
optimum but, and a big but, it will still run with ample power.
My theory is this: while in motion air flows in through the front venting and enters the air intake system. The incoming air is pushing all hot air up and out the back of the machine and that hot air
won't be moving forward and into the intake unless the machine isn't moving. At that point I really don't care too much cause I ain't moving. (Prior to this season I'll be adding vents to either
side of the speedo to aid in the expulsion of hot air.) I also removed the stock vent screens from their stock locations and added pet screen cause I don't think the flowrite material allows for easy air flow.
Let me just say this; The venting that I have done probably isn't for everyone. I live and ride out in Washington where we have extremely wet snow compared to other locations.
So, I don't have to worry about the really powdery snow that can make it through my vent system and the light, powdery snow probably won't sit on the "Shelf" and cause my problems to begin with.
And again, I do not/have not experienced any bogging (intake or exhaust) to date with all the vent/intake/exhaust mods I have done to my machine. And, we had some REALLY deep days last season.
Mr. Monkey: Thanks for the comment. I don't think I really get too much more snow on the speedo. The small windscreen seems to deflect most of it. The only snow that sticks to the speedo is the blow around the
windscreen stuff and that would stick to it in the stock configuration.
1 more thing: I added foam weatherstriping between the nose cone and the hood in the very front. That seems to be the only place where the hood and body don't have a good seal. Worked really well and its cheap.
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