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Installing Q drive pointers ?

Roadbuilder

Member
Premium Member
I'm trying to install my Q drive belt after instlling a 2005 900 drive shaft.
Any pointers on how to get belt/drive pulleys on with out the tapered shafts.

I have tapered shafts coming, but know it's been done with out them.

Any help would be appreciated.

Also best place to buy a spare QD belt ?
 
You could try to get the belt started and roll the track to get the belt on. :face-icon-small-con
IMO I would buy the tools from Happy Face for $49.00 easier in the long run than possibly compromising a $150 to $200 belt. JMO
They are all stainless and are cheaper than Polaris's, which are on BO.

102_0956.jpg
 
I haven't seen a thread how to install a quick drive belt with these tools.
Maybe someone would care to explain?
Thanks
 
RE:Quick Drive install

Will post pictures and some tricks that we have learned after we get done riding later today.<O:p</O:p
A note of caution be very careful if attempting to install a belt without alignment studs as the belts don't stretch at all <O:p</O:p
I highly recommend practicing this procedure at home with Beer if you take the Q.D. pulleys off and slightly chamfer all of the edges. <O:p</O:p
It makes reassembly much easier. The hard sharp corners that come from the factory make the job much more difficult even with the alignment studs and a real P.I.T.A.without them.<O:p</O:p
 
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Tips to install drive belt

When removing or installing the Q.D belts try to move the pulleys as evenly as possible to avoid them binding.
Set the parking brake to remove the pulley retaining bolts
Once you have removed the pulleys and belt as mentioned in last post it is
very helpfull to debur the ends of both drive shafts and insides of the pulleys as shown in the pictures I painted the ends red to show the chamfered area better.
Before you start to reinstall the pulleys it helps to put an alignment marks to help orientate
the top pulley with the splines.
After you screw in the alignment studs put lower pulley and bellt on. Make sure to check
the arrow on drive belt for correct direction then slightly engage the splines with the pulley
about 1/8"then carefully start the upper pulley on the alignment stud until it engages the splines once both are engaged you can work them on carefully.
Be sure that washers on the pulley bolts are installed with the crown up away from the pulley.Use blue Lock-Tite I like to use the primer as it reduces the cure time.

image-1.jpg photo-1.jpg image-2.jpg photo.jpg image-4.jpg image-7.jpg image-6.jpg photo-3.jpg
 
You could try to get the belt started and roll the track to get the belt on. :face-icon-small-con
IMO I would buy the tools from Happy Face for $49.00 easier in the long run than possibly compromising a $150 to $200 belt. JMO
They are all stainless and are cheaper than Polaris's, which are on BO.

Note we now have the Quick-Drive install studs availible with a 3/8"-24 thread to fit
the earlier style drive-shafts they in stock ready to ship.
Big Ling
 
RE:weight comparison

Happy Face would like to thank the guys at Outback Mfg.<O:p</O:p
For busting out the new lightweight 7075 version of our alignment tools.<O:p</O:p
We were amazed at the weight savings over the stainless ones.<O:p</O:p
50.5gr.vs. 201.5 gr. they will be available to ship on Tues. Jan. 08 <O:p</O:p
When the anodizer finishes them they will be Type III hard Ano in red.<O:p</O:p
These will still have all design features that set our products apart.<O:p</O:p
The lightweight makes these much easier to carry while riding.<O:p</O:p

Big Ling
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RED STUDS.jpg MORI NL NL 2500 STUDS.jpg
 
Last edited:
Happy Face would like to thank the guys at Outback Mfg.<o:p</o
For busting out the new lightweight 7075 version of our alignment tools.<o:p</o
We were amazed at the weight savings over the stainless ones.<o:p</o
50.5gr.vs. 201.5 gr. they will be available to ship on Tues. Jan. 08 <o:p</o
When the anodizer finishes them they will be Type III hard Ano in red.<o:p</o
These will still have all design features that set our products apart.<o:p</o
The lightweight makes these much easier to carry while riding.<o:p</o

Big Ling
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Huh! Wonder where you got this 7075 idea and your design change a couple weeks ago for the bolt head on the end?

Maybe here:
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=322174
Post #29

QUOTE:
Ok, here's the deal! I am spinning some up in 7075 aluminum and stainless steel to decide which ones to go with. To my surprise, these "little tools" are not that little. They are plated steel, heavy and actually pretty good size pieces. This design will be lighter, cheaper and will be put on and off with the same wrench used to pull the pulleys on the sled. Why have to carry two tools for this simple job? Once I have a couple sets done, I will test the pulley install and see if it gouges the 7075 aluminum. If it does, I may need to go with stainless. Or not....... One thing we need to remember here is these are basically going to be used in an emergency only situation. They are something that we are going to throw in the tool kit for when/if we break one backcountry. The lighter and easier we can stay, the better. I will keep you guys in the loop, but these should be available fairly quickly. Stay tuned!

Aaron
 
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