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Installing Anti-ratcheting drivers

hey guys i have an 03 Edge RMK 700 that i started having some ratcheting problems with last season when i would gun it or when doin a climb. i was wondering how difficult it is to install a set of anti-ratchet drivers in a sled like this. what kind would be recommened?

are there any good refrence threads or sites that show/tell how to install drivers? i understand that i need a track that is fully clipped and windows punched. Is this difficult to do to an existing track?

i really appreciate any info you could provide. im prayin for snow as we speak and cant wait to start riding again.
 
hey guys i have an 03 Edge RMK 700 that i started having some ratcheting problems with last season when i would gun it or when doin a climb. i was wondering how difficult it is to install a set of anti-ratchet drivers in a sled like this. what kind would be recommened?

are there any good refrence threads or sites that show/tell how to install drivers? i understand that i need a track that is fully clipped and windows punched. Is this difficult to do to an existing track?

i really appreciate any info you could provide. im prayin for snow as we speak and cant wait to start riding again.

I have had very good luck with Wahl's drives for this sleds. The drivers have to be pressed on too. If you cut your own Windows out with a utility knife figure on getting dirty and use dish soap to help with the cut and go slow' as to not cut to far and there goes a track. if your going to do it your self then you will need a clip tool and 2 times the amount of clips that are on your track now. some say to move the suspension back an inch and cut the rails off an 1 3/4 inch but i have relocated the limiter strap bar back an inch then cut the rails off 2 3/4 to fit. I just mark all my holes to re-drill and drill them before i cut the rails off. on the rail(note you will have to move back the rubber stop too)
 
I would uase avid drivers over the others much I have seen the others not work well. Hiow we do it is reshape the rail 1 and 1/4 inch back and reshape the end caps on a band saw then move the skid straight back to the next set of holes. there is already a pilot hole there that just needs drilled out. The track we use a wood chisel sized right. Oh no drinking while doing this either. if you needed any phone help i would be able to talk with more. Pm if you need my nimber. really it is not that hard to do.
 
I would uase avid drivers over the others much I have seen the others not work well. Hiow we do it is reshape the rail 1 and 1/4 inch back and reshape the end caps on a band saw then move the skid straight back to the next set of holes. there is already a pilot hole there that just needs drilled out. The track we use a wood chisel sized right. Oh no drinking while doing this either. if you needed any phone help i would be able to talk with more. Pm if you need my nimber. really it is not that hard to do.

That's how I did this on the Edge also....1" susp setback,1" rails and 1/2" from the rail caps. You need a total of 2.5" to clear anti-ratchets, it's well worth the effort.
 
On cutting out the track windows with a utility knife what I did was take a drill with a small bit and drill out each of the four corners on every closed window. Took utility knife and "connected the dots" worked very well and didn't take long.

kranc
 
If you have tightened the track up and still have ratcheting you may want to check the bearing on the left side.
 
Thanks guys i really appreciate the help. i will be pulling the sled out of storage soon to see what things look like.

i will check that bering also. the track only ratchets a little and i just dont want to ruin something by letting it continue this. its only when the track gets good bite and im on the gas hard. i can still ride with little to no problems but i like the idea of antiratchets.

now with anti-ratchets do i need to run anti-stab kit too? i have heard that it is recommended.

thanks again

Alex
 
03 Rmk 700

I had a 2003 rmk 700 That also had the same problem as you described, It was the bearing on the speedo side.
 
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