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Installed my B & M Fab boards on my 12' Pro

vertical800

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
I just installed a set of the B & M Fab boards on my 12' Pro Rmk. They were very easy to install and the quality of the boards are top notch. They came with all of the mounting hardware and they email you very detailed instructions to mount them. I would highly recommend them to anyone and they will powder coat to any color you want and they ship them out when they say they are going to. Thanks Brian and Mike for making great products.

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X2 for B&M Fab. I have ordered my boards and front bumper and Brian is a top notch guy to work with. I am leaving on a trip Friday night, so Brian is rushing everything for me. He even said he would be willing to deliver them himself if shipping was too slow! Steller guy, cant say enough good things about the customer service.
 
I have their front bumper and it's top notch stuff. The fit and finish and welds are great. I live about 30 minutes from their shop and he was willing to meet me half way to deliver it... Highly recommend!
 
running boards

I've got a question, has anyone ran these side by side withe the airframes? which ones felt stronger? these look like they would be, Im waiting to see if my sleds totaled, If not Im doing the B&M bumper, running boards and something to cap the full side of the tunnel like aksnorider makes, everytime i ride my sled i feel like its gonna crumble, my running boards were bent second ride.
 
Those look real nice. I like the beefier look to them vs the airframes.

Did you have to drill the grip screws in or do they come pre drilled?

-Matt
 
I think they are much beefier than the airframes also. That's why i went with them bcos the quality just seemed better. You do have to drill the holes for the grip screws and can place them where you want them. They cost me $480 with the powder coating and shipping. I cant say enough good about there products.
 
Those do look sweet!
I love my airframes. After some serious abuse test. I would say the only way to improve on them would be to use flat bar against the tunnel instead of the round like airframes and these do.
Overall I like the appearance of these more than the airframes. I think I like the fact that the traction screws on the airframes are Pcoated black though.
 
Those do look sweet!
I love my airframes. After some serious abuse test. I would say the only way to improve on them would be to use flat bar against the tunnel instead of the round like airframes and these do. Overall I like the appearance of these more than the airframes. I think I like the fact that the traction screws on the airframes are Pcoated black though.

++1
 
Attached are some pics of my B&M Boards & Front Bumper install. Also did the timbersled tunnel gusset and some vents from Holz. I can't thank Brian enough for everything, and what a great product. Also wanna thank Randy for the install and everything else he did.

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Once everything was cut it didnt take long at all. Never had to take the track out or anything. They are soo much better than stock. Everything was in place an riveted down in one hour. I recommend the use of a good sawzall...:face-icon-small-ton
 
They look nice... great looking sleds here.

I'd like to see a cross-section cut of the outer (main) tube.

What is the wall thickness and alloy used for the main tube?

Are they using low bake-temp powders?

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Those do look sweet!
I love my airframes. After some serious abuse test. I would say the only way to improve on them would be to use flat bar against the tunnel instead of the round like airframes and these do.
Overall I like the appearance of these more than the airframes. I think I like the fact that the traction screws on the airframes are Pcoated black though.

The flat against the tunnel is an idea that I will try. The problem we see with it is you have cut the round edge off the bottom of the tunnel which is where the side gets some of its strength from, and the round tube is gone as well. Also the only way to install them wound be put the rivets through the side of the tunnel and loading them in shear. Solid hammered rivets would be the only way I personally would trust a rivet in shear load. We do use a structural "pop" rivet to install our boards already but when it comes down to it, its still a "pop" rivet. Most people are not setup to buy a spendy air riveter for hammering solid rivets on. The screws in black are also just a different manufacturer.



They look nice... great looking sleds here.

I'd like to see a cross-section cut of the outer (main) tube.

What is the wall thickness and alloy used for the main tube?

Are they using low bake-temp powders?

.


The outer rail on our boards is 1"x1/8" wall thickness 6063-T52 aluminum tube.
Heating for powder coating all done at less than 300 degrees, annealing aluminum requires at least 450 (that's conservative) for roughly 2 hours soak time at that temp depending on the alloy. Powder Coating takes all of 30 minutes soak time.The welding process takes any aluminum material from its current hardness state (T-4, T-52, T-6) all the way down to T-0 hardness. I think this is what your question was getting at. Unless you can completely eliminate welding tube all together, there will be a heat affected zone no matter what. Hence glued and riveted components. We could always send them out and have them solution heat treated and then hard anodized but I am unsure about a 1000 dollar price tag on a set of running boards, I have other ideas before we resort to that.
 
Just got home from my first ride on these boards! I love them!!!


Super strong and easy to install.


If your thinking about them do it !!!
 
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