Inline fuel reducer?

[catguy01]

Have an 06 M7 and just installed reducer. I know you have to check at WOT and I haven't done that yet. It's idling at 43. Is this a big deal. I just don't want it to drop way low when I ride it. Leaving tomorrow for a trip. My testing ground will be on the snow and not on a stand I'll dedfinately check the plugs after she gets warmed up good. Thanks

 

[buster888]

I take it you are talking about a fuel regulator? From what I have read, altitude will make a difference on what your guage reads. Also if you guage is liquid filled I understand that you have to flush it or reset it at altitude to get the correct reading. From what I have read, 43 at lower eliv. isn't bad, maybe a bit rich. Will drop as eliv. increases. There have been a few recent threads about fuel pressure. (Withing the last week). I'll see if I can find them and post link.

 

[catguy01]

I actually have the Bikeman Inline Fuel Reducer. I wanted to try because I know my sled is running a little rich and I heard it works.

 

[buster888]

Here is the link to the thread I was talking about.

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=122107

 

[Ken Climb]

Have an 06 M7 and just installed reducer. I know you have to check at WOT and I haven't done that yet. It's idling at 43. Is this a big deal. I just don't want it to drop way low when I ride it. Leaving tomorrow for a trip. My testing ground will be on the snow and not on a stand I'll dedfinately check the plugs after she gets warmed up good. Thanks

Are you talking about the inline fuel reducer? I bought a m7 second hand and it came with a main jet (inline) just before the injectors to lower the fuel pressure or volume I guess?....... I'm not sure. I'm sure an egt guage would be handy when mess'n around with fuel like this.

 

[PowerJoe]

If you set the pressure to 43 psi at idle it will probably jump to about 45 when you punch the throttle and hold at about 44.

I actually installed the Bikeman adjustable regulator on my 06 M7 and started out at 48 psi. I didn't have a bog but could tell it was a little rich. I checked piston wash and plugs and kept bringing it down until the wash looked good at about 42-43 psi with a steady 3,000 RPM. All of my settings were done at 6,000 feet and I road up to 9,000 feet.

The sled runs good now and has no hesitations or bad spots. I haven't paid attention to what the pressure was at different altitudes. It probably stays the same and the gage is what is fluctuates.

 

[Rudy198]

this sound like my sled is doing,bad bog then goes like hell.
What should it be set at below 3000' and if a guy goes h3000'+ what should it be set at?

 

[furthur]

I'm running a thin 43 psi idle fuel pressure, stock M7, with a 290 mainjet inline. At WOT it will fall to about 41-42 psi. Pulls good, no problems yet, even at low alt., egt's still no higher than 1150 at WOT hard climb. Runs much better than it did at 46-48 psi.

John

 

[Joker09]

Im just doin a little research on the fuel reducers from bikeman. Just curious, which of their setups is better, the inline fuel reducer for $80 or the fuel pressure regulator they aslo sell for $150. Maybe some pros and cons? Thanks in advance

 

[furthur]

Im just doin a little research on the fuel reducers from bikeman. Just curious, which of their setups is better, the inline fuel reducer for $80 or the fuel pressure regulator they aslo sell for $150. Maybe some pros and cons? Thanks in advance

They do different stuff... The fuel pressure on these range all over the map, and AC's specs allow a pretty wide margin (like 43-46 psi?). Most stock M7's, it seems, run pretty good at 43 psi, and fall off fast at higher fuel pressures.

The inline reducer just pulls fuel at WOT. The map is kinda rich, here, and most sleds run better with just a bit less. Trial and error by the F7 guys, early on, showed they could get away with 41-42 psi, sometimes less, at WOT, and make as much as 5HP more.

You need an accurate pressure gauge to tune with either one, and EGT's help a ton, though it can be done by watching plugs/wash (you gotta watch that, anyway, fooling with your fuel system).

Last, the stock fuel line on these was pretty cheap. If you start messing with it, change to good quality FI rated hose, use GOOD (marine) quality clamps, good chaffing/heat protection, and check for leaks often, especially after making the changes. Mod your stock fuel system at your own risk, with respect for gasoline so close to your hot pipe.

John

 

[WyoBoy1000]

You are shooting in the dark get a bd box and you can make it run right in all ranges. A bd box is cheaper than a burn down! Last year I learned egts are cheaper as well, in fact together its cheaper.

 

[furthur]

You are shooting in the dark get a bd box and you can make it run right in all ranges. A bd box is cheaper than a burn down! Last year I learned egts are cheaper as well, in fact together its cheaper.

Unless you're running an AF, we're all shooting in the dark, somewhat. For a stock sled, the BD box is just a bandaid, anyway. AC didn't leave much on the table, with the 700's, if you get the stock system to specs, except at WOT. Back in the F-7 days, DTR had lots that ran 145hp out of the box, and the dogs could be made to run that just by fixing fuel on top end, most of the time. If you have a stock sled, and no lean bog down low, no midrange bog, and just a little too much fuel pressure, what is a BD box gonna gain ya that fixing the stock setup won't? If it's less than 5 HP, I'm not interested. Of course, if you're gonna mod it, then you're gonna need it, but that's a different post.

Your milage may vary. This works for me.

John

 

[Joker09]

Alright, so the fuel reducer will just give me the ability to adjust fuel on top, but will the fuel pressure regulator change the whole curve from bottom all the way to the top? If I can accomplish the same thing with the reducer, I wont dump $150 into the fuel pressure reg. Guess Im just looking for the best setup to work with. Thanks for all the info guys.

 

[Joker09]

ttt

 

[PowerJoe]

I think the adjustable regulator will give you different results than the inline reducer. If furthur's comments about the inline reducer arecorrect, where the pressure goes down as fuel flow increases (WOT), that is a different result than what I saw with the adjustable regulator. I think with the inline reducer "main jet", the small orifice causes cavitation and as fuel flow increases you loose fuel pressure.

I remember reading on here last year someone who was running both the adjustable regulator and the inline adjuster. This would then allow you to lean out your entire curve and make it even more lean on the top end.

My opinion is that the bottom end is a little rich on the M7s, more on the 05 than the 06 and I would rather have the bottom end be a little lean. I also get worried about leaning out the top end. I care more about being safe on a long uphill pull vs. a little extra milage. I also don't know how much I would really gain in horsepower by leaning out the top end any more.

I wasn't happy about paying the $150 for the adjustable version but like it now that I have it.