Info on the Edge models

[ttyR2]

I'm looking to upgrade my wifes sled from an XLT to one of the Edge models. Can you guys clue me in as to what the year range was for the Edge RMK machines and if there are any specific years I should avoid, or what weaknesses should be addressed? I saw a 2002 RMK 700 that looked good, but want to research more before I buy.

 

[stum1967]

the first year of edge sled in the RMK was 2002 thru 2005, in the xc line the first year was 2001. If I was looking to up grade to an Edge, I would probably look for a 600 144. The 700-800 are great sleds but are well known for crank and case problems. With the poor snow year, you should be able to find an 2006 600 144 for about the same money as the edge chassis.

 

[Kraven]

I'm looking to upgrade my wifes sled from an XLT to one of the Edge models. Can you guys clue me in as to what the year range was for the Edge RMK machines and if there are any specific years I should avoid, or what weaknesses should be addressed? I saw a 2002 RMK 700 that looked good, but want to research more before I buy.

The 700 EDGE is pretty much bullet proof.

It was the 800 EDGE's that had the crank issues.

I put over 6400 miles on my 2002 EDGE-X 800, before I sold it and it's still runnin'.

Ditto for the 2001 EDGE-X 600 I had.

I've seen the EDGE's sell for as low as $1,600 in the off-season.

Hope this helps

 

[stum1967]

Yes, the 800 had more problems, but my own 02 700 rmk is on its second crank and new case halves, pretty common .

 

[treemagnet03]

Sorry, not common. The 700 is great. With a few go fast parts they can be made to move with 800s of the day. There are always a few lemons regardless of what type of vehicles we are discussing.

The Vertical Escape sleds (by 2004 the 6,7, and 800 were all available with this package) were the best overall as they had the lightweight parts and were the most mountain specific. Vertical edge packages were mostly a visual difference. 2003 brought the electronic reverse (nice to have if this truly is for your wife....your back will thank you).

To make the sled a bit nicer, add some better boards (or similar) to clear snow, junk the stock ski set as they were terrible, and look into a shock upgrade. Helps quite a bit.

Good luck. The edge chassis is tough as nails. Should treat you well.

-T

 

[Ryanlilly]

Hmmm, I've never heard of the 700s having that issue and I've owned one since 2002. Maybe just bad luck with yours?

 

[stum1967]

First motor went about 2800 miles before the pto bear was loose on the pto. Sent the crank out to be rebuilt, That one went about 1500 with the wide bearing on it. This time it spun the case out too. Now it's got new case, crank, pistons and new clutch.

 

[Kraven]

CHECKING THE CRANK AND CLUTCH BALANCING

I'm looking to upgrade my wifes sled from an XLT to one of the Edge models. Can you guys clue me in as to what the year range was for the Edge RMK machines and if there are any specific years I should avoid, or what weaknesses should be addressed? I saw a 2002 RMK 700 that looked good, but want to research more before I buy.

IF you want to check the crank on a sled you want to purchase,

simply remove the primary clutch, set a dial indicator on the crank snout approx 1" end from the end of the crank, remove the spark plugs, slowly rotate the engine over.

.0025" is the ABSOLUTE most run-out I would want to see, and obviously less is better.

If you follow through with the purchase, spend $ 35.00 and send he PRIMARY out to SLP for balancing and setting the belt-to-sheave clearance.

That reduces the slamming effect onto the crankshaft during clutch engagement and combined with the balancing goes a L-O-N-G way towards crank longevity.

Hope this helps

 

[Kraven]

CHECKING THE CRANK AND CLUTCH BALANCING

First motor went about 2800 miles before the pto bear was loose on the pto. Sent the crank out to be rebuilt, That one went about 1500 with the wide bearing on it. This time it spun the case out too. Now it's got new case, crank, pistons and new clutch.

Sorry to hear you had grief with your 700, but as others have posted, that's the first 700 crank failure I heard of.

But focusing on the OP's question, the 700's are pretty much bullet-proof and reliable, and run pretty quick for what they are.

Did you ever stick a dial indicator on the crank to see where you're at ??

Also, you mentioned NEW clutch, but nothing about balancing it.

IF you assume that just because it's new, you may want to consider and read my post above.

I purchased a brand new 2002 800 EDGE-X 800 back in 2002, sent out the clutch for balancing after one season, came back with approx (8) lightening holes in it, and the sled ran NOTICEABLY S-M-O-O-T-H-E-R, you could tell the difference in the handlebars, no B.S.

So much for quality control in Roseau.......................................

Hope this helps, and hope your 700 brings you many happy miles

 

[boxster7614]

I replaced the engine in my 800 after the crank broke (rod pin) with a 2005 700 because of this so called "bullet proof" motor so I would have some "peace of mind" and it broke the crank (PTO shaft broke off) also. No 2 stroke motor is "bullet proof". The 700s seem to have a better name for themselves but then again look how many 800s were produced compaired to the 700's. Just my 2 cents

 

[sled_guy]

2001 600RMK was an Edge chassis with reverse.
2002 700/800 were Edge chassis but no reverse.

2002 700 is the best running 700 they ever built.

2002 chassis has small steering bushings in the steering column... they wear out pretty quickly and the column gets sloppy. Not a huge deal.

2003 800 was available in the Escape and is the lightest Edge RMK ever built. In 2004 you could get a standard or escape but there were slight changes (most noticably the seat) in the 04 escape that made it heavier than the 03. 03 800 Escape and 04 and on other sleds got DET.

2005 the chassis is pretty much an escape, only one version available.

sled_guy

 

[theultrarider]

We've the 700 ves cranks too. Not just the 8's. Not uncommon to break the 7's when they run with the 8's day in and day out. I personally think the 7's faired better as a whole since most of the harder more agressive riders would buy 8's. Those that dont punish their sleds as hard, bought the smaller engines.. Just my opinion. No proof on that other than what I've seen.

 

[stum1967]

I read a few posts on another forum from "Indy Dan". If I understand his posts correctly, The crank problems on the 700-800 engines had more to do with poor tolerances in the case machining, allowing some bearings to run hot because of being to tight, causing early failure, and others too loose allowing the crank to flex and lead to failure and spinning out the case. Maybe my old case was one of the loose ones. Makes me wish I would have had the new case checked.

 

[Goinboardin]

I read a few posts on another forum from "Indy Dan". If I understand his posts correctly, The crank problems on the 700-800 engines had more to do with poor tolerances in the case machining, allowing some bearings to run hot because of being to tight, causing early failure, and others too loose allowing the crank to flex and lead to failure and spinning out the case. Maybe my old case was one of the loose ones. Makes me wish I would have had the new case checked.

When I bought my 800 the PTO bearing was frozen along with that rod bearing. I read some posts about bearing crush. When I checked my cases a dry bearing placed in the case was choppy (too much crush). This was just pressing the bearing into one case half then spinning it and comparing how it spun to when it was out of the case (smooth and fast). When I put that same bearing in both case halfs and torqued them together it was really rough. Sanded little by little out of the cases bearing locations, checking how the bearing rolled frequently, and did this for all 6 bearing locations in the case. Eventually got it so the bearings had just a slightly less smooth roll in the torqued case than when out, so they're tight enough but not too tight. 1000 miles later my crank runout on the clutch side was under 0.002". Run a balanced clutch and a one peice motor plate instead of straps too.