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Imagine . . . adjustable radiator louvers?

Someday, someone is going to invent sets of adjustable radiator louvers, front and back, so we can easily adjust the airflow both in and out, to get the engine temps we need.

As easy as we adjust the blinds on our windows, we'll be able to slide a switch and fine tune the airflow. Someday . . .

Either that or the market will just be too small for the idea to take off and be profitable. I dunno. Perhaps the flying carpet solution is so quick, easy and cheap that it would be a solution to a problem that doesn't really exist.
 
Would be difficult since the louvers are a ice block most of the time. A good thermostat and engine cover is a better solution than blocking radiators.

My bike doesnt hold temps in the deep with thermobob and pst alone. Radiater covers are a key piece of the puzzle for me. Often just blocking one of them is perfect.
 
I think a lot of the need would be dictated by your particular location/snow type. Here in the Northwest we have a wetter, concrete snow most times, versus the Rocky Mountain powder that penetrates everything on a bike. It is an intriguing idea though. Right up there with reliable heated grips and good snowbike boots. Someone could really make some good money...
 
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It has been my experience in northern Idaho, that the radiators are blocked most of the time by snow. We are actually running filter skins over top of the stock louvers just to keep the snow from sticking/melting/refreezing and becoming impenetrable. In the trees where we spend most of the time, my fan is kicking on to keep temps down - so the only time I am looking at low temperatures is on the ride in or out.
 
It has been my experience in northern Idaho, that the radiators are blocked most of the time by snow. We are actually running filter skins over top of the stock louvers just to keep the snow from sticking/melting/refreezing and becoming impenetrable. In the trees where we spend most of the time, my fan is kicking on to keep temps down - so the only time I am looking at low temperatures is on the ride in or out.

Definitely depends on snow type and conditions. Sometimes when my bike is getting too hot (with no radiator shrouds in) i stop and knock the ice off the front of my radiators and im all good again. It can be a constant battle. We dont have much snow yet but i was in some good meadows the other day and had one shroud in and was running 155-185 depending on if i was going uphill or downhill. Then i made a stupid move and got hung up on a log for about a minute. Didn’t even look at my temp guage while i was pushing my bike over it. Once i got freed up and started riding again i looked down at my temp gauge. It goes back and forth between current and max temperature. It said 242 max temperature! I almost fell off my bike! Whoops.
 
It has been my experience in northern Idaho, that the radiators are blocked most of the time by snow. We are actually running filter skins over top of the stock louvers just to keep the snow from sticking/melting/refreezing and becoming impenetrable. In the trees where we spend most of the time, my fan is kicking on to keep temps down - so the only time I am looking at low temperatures is on the ride in or out.









Yup, I'm a big fat guy. But amazing how much my fan runs, even of super cold days.
 
Definitely depends on snow type and conditions. Sometimes when my bike is getting too hot (with no radiator shrouds in) i stop and knock the ice off the front of my radiators and im all good again. It can be a constant battle. We dont have much snow yet but i was in some good meadows the other day and had one shroud in and was running 155-185 depending on if i was going uphill or downhill. Then i made a stupid move and got hung up on a log for about a minute. Didn’t even look at my temp guage while i was pushing my bike over it. Once i got freed up and started riding again i looked down at my temp gauge. It goes back and forth between current and max temperature. It said 242 max temperature! I almost fell off my bike! Whoops.

Do you have the stock rad cap? My stock only held to about 214 and was pushing out coolant. 1.6 bar raised boil over to about 240.
 
Do you have the stock rad cap? My stock only held to about 214 and was pushing out coolant. 1.6 bar raised boil over to about 240.

Ya. Stock radiator cap. I was a couple ounces low after that ride. I usually dont lose any coolant that i notice. I occasionally have seen temps in the low 220’s and still been totally full. I lose more coolant from the bike being on it’s side or upside down than from boil over.
 
I have been thinking about just that. Combo guard/ block off. I run a machine shop so I will make it happen.
 
You guys that ride/have ridden the bikes in the powder sure do know. My radiators were blocked solid with ice from all the powder getting blown up into the rads, melting then freezing. Adjustable louvers like Levelor window blinds would be about useless without a way to keep the snow from getting in there.

As it was, it was not a bad thing as I sure did notice that the bike runs a lot cooler, mine was in the 150-170 degree range when running in pure pow. I had taken off the cold weather panel earlier in the day as it was in the high 20's and I was not running in powder but just tooling around the farm and had the engine in the 210-220 range so I took the panel off. My max temp was 224 so I will put the panel back on and just leave it until it is warm out and I'd only be riding pure trails.

If the rads will be full of snow, the radiator blockers I made will be about useless for all-time. No biggie though as the sled was only $2.39 shipped.
 
I'm using Frogzskins material on my rad shrouds to keep the snow from sticking and freezing up. It works great. Still have to cover up the shrouds to block the radiators from cooling on deep pow days and still not getting engine to warm up above 120 when riding. Too much engine cooling from surrounding snow. I have thermobob and PST jacket but snow hits the front of the engine just under the header pipe and gets in around the back of the engine where the track throws snow. Anyone have a solution for keeping engine warm in deep pow? It has been a problem a few days already this season here in Wyoming. Not complaining about having deep snow to ride but I need warmer temps for optimal power.
 
I'm using Frogzskins material on my rad shrouds to keep the snow from sticking and freezing up. It works great. Still have to cover up the shrouds to block the radiators from cooling on deep pow days and still not getting engine to warm up above 120 when riding. Too much engine cooling from surrounding snow. I have thermobob and PST jacket but snow hits the front of the engine just under the header pipe and gets in around the back of the engine where the track throws snow. Anyone have a solution for keeping engine warm in deep pow? It has been a problem a few days already this season here in Wyoming. Not complaining about having deep snow to ride but I need warmer temps for optimal power.

I also had the issue with all the snow getting in and behind the PST engine cover, the snow would just go up over the gap between my plastic skid plate and pack around the motor.

I should be glad, though, that my engine temps were from 150-170 when the snow was all packed up everywhere-more than I thought would ever pack-in, and not 120-F like yours was running

Have you blocked the back of your radiators? That might help a little.
 
I'm using Frogzskins material on my rad shrouds to keep the snow from sticking and freezing up. It works great. Still have to cover up the shrouds to block the radiators from cooling on deep pow days and still not getting engine to warm up above 120 when riding. Too much engine cooling from surrounding snow. I have thermobob and PST jacket but snow hits the front of the engine just under the header pipe and gets in around the back of the engine where the track throws snow. Anyone have a solution for keeping engine warm in deep pow? It has been a problem a few days already this season here in Wyoming. Not complaining about having deep snow to ride but I need warmer temps for optimal power.

Build something to block the back of your engine. That helps a bit. I’ll look for the picture of what i built. Pack some dense foam in between your skid plate and engine and anywhere else you can. Also helped me out to get extra grommets and use zip ties to button up the pst a bit in places it is lacking. In really deep blower early season i need all this stuff to keep my bike warm. It’s a dance. Im constantly adjusting for different days.

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Thanks for the recommendations. What is the material you are using for the rear cover?

Is there a specific type of foam to use between the skid plate and engine that is heat resistant?
 
I run aluminium rad guards instead of the plastic louvers and tape the outer 3rd up with ducky tape that way that section will never ice over, and when the coolant circulates it melts the rest of the guard right of for better cooling, never really had any problems set up like that , my buddy with the same bike and stock plastic louvers ices up and overheats constantly
 
Thanks for the recommendations. What is the material you are using for the rear cover?

Is there a specific type of foam to use between the skid plate and engine that is heat resistant?

The plastic i got a roll from an auto place. Most any foam would work i think. It doesnt really get too hot underneath the engine. The stuff i used was from an old “kneel board” —the little foam pads to save your knees when working on stuff.
 
Oh yes I also have a engine guard as wide as the rads out front open below for snow to fall out and 1/8 inch UHMW protecting the rear engine case so the track will not be able to hit it with snow. That helps a lot and keeps the engine relatively clean of ice.
 
Oh yes I also have a engine guard as wide as the rads out front open below for snow to fall out and 1/8 inch UHMW protecting the rear engine case so the track will not be able to hit it with snow. That helps a lot and keeps the engine relatively clean of ice.

hmm. the new Raze heated bars completely shut all flow off to the rad unless temps hit 180F .All flow goes through the bars, So the radiator covered or open will make no difference.
 
Build something to block the back of your engine. That helps a bit. I’ll look for the picture of what i built. Pack some dense foam in between your skid plate and engine and anywhere else you can. Also helped me out to get extra grommets and use zip ties to button up the pst a bit in places it is lacking. In really deep blower early season i need all this stuff to keep my bike warm. It’s a dance. Im constantly adjusting for different days.

Your words, "It's a dance." were in my head all this morning-in a good way- as I was stuffing foam in the front space between my engine jacket and skid plate as I had noticed all the snow that packs into the space and then melts and freezes, blocking up the front of the motor with ice.

I cut and stuffed all sorts of foam in the space and had to figure if the plastic skidplate doesn't melt then hopefully in the cold, none of the foam I put in won't melt or burn either-at least I hope not or I'll have an awful mess on my hands next time I leave my bike idling and the motor gets warm or hot at 220.

It is a dance as I notice that on the trail I'll have 200-220, but then as soon as I get into the powder I'll be at 150-170.
 
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