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I'll drive 200 miles for your 670 trailing arm!

I just checked the '96 and '97 out in my garage and the '97 has a steeper (more vertical) rake than the '96. I'm snobogger's brother and I'm almost sure it matched the '97 (including the decals) when we checked at the time.

Ok, thanks, but what do you mean by "rake"? The most important thing ive found is that the shock mount is straight on my 99, unlike the 01 summit, which is at a slight angle, the stearing post hole is 1/2 longer and the sway bar mount holes are smaller...

Thanks for the FIRST POST!!!
 
Ok, thanks, but what do you mean by "rake"? The most important thing ive found is that the shock mount is straight on my 99, unlike the 01 summit, which is at a slight angle, the stearing post hole is 1/2 longer and the sway bar mount holes are smaller...

Thanks for the FIRST POST!!!

I was referring to the rake angle which is the angle between the ground and the steering post hole (where the ski pivots). When viewed from the side, the tube on the '97 is closer to straight up and down when compared to the '96.
 
try the sled shed in puyallup .talk to PAULLA if she doesnt have a after market one , ask her if theres one on the the junked one in there lot,253-922-3318, you might have to ask her husband Gene
 
and if that doesnt work out, I have a 98 summit 500 that you can borrow one off of 253-686-4385 Jeff I live in Graham 98338
 
You guys are great! haha, im going down to my dad's works shop and were gonna try to bend it back and fill the back in with weld. Mabey a support bar along the back. I personaly thought it couldnt be fixed but others beg to differ...
 
You guys are great! haha, im going down to my dad's works shop and were gonna try to bend it back and fill the back in with weld. Mabey a support bar along the back. I personaly thought it couldnt be fixed but others beg to differ...

Don't try to get away with just filling the back with weld.
You will HAVE to weld in a doubler plate at the least.
You'd be better off welding in a peice of angle wrapped over the top and bottom of the trailing arm and make the peice about 6" longer than the damage in front and behind it.

It will be plenty strong.
 
Don't try to get away with just filling the back with weld.
You will HAVE to weld in a doubler plate at the least.
You'd be better off welding in a peice of angle wrapped over the top and bottom of the trailing arm and make the peice about 6" longer than the damage in front and behind it.

It will be plenty strong.


This is exactly what Snowbogger and I ended up doing after the used arm didn't fit but we used only 1 piece of angle along the bottom. The original bend was quite small and in a sideways direction so not much bending or strengthening was needed. We also didn't want to make it too strong since the next time could trash the footwell instead of the replaceable trailing arm.
 
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All done guys, im making a new thread (last one i promise) with step bu step pictures of the process... Thanks all! I didnt think we'd be able to have enough time to do it, at first i didnt even think it was possible...
 
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