If you had a bone stock 900, where to start?

[J.Jensen]

If you had a bone stock, low milage, excellent condition 2006 RMK 900 with all factory upgrades, where would you start upgrading if you were on a budget?

I got a good offer for one, and I would have to take one thing at a time and spread the upgrading costs over time.. Its a 151" if it matters.

 

[river]

I would check the motor mounts make sure they are not broken.and add compfusion mounts or the slp torque arm and push arm. and any vents you can add.to get the heat out of there.

 

[RMKrick]

Then i would upgrade the spindles to holz

 

[JesseJames]

venting, torque arm, push arm, can, intake, spindles. The stock suitcase in the sled is very heavy. A used can would be very cost effective. I would also look at the gearing and clutching. Jesse.

 

[rmk2112]

Radiator delete....most definitely.
That's almost 25lbs right there, and............. it will run cooler afterward.

Fire-n-Ice Airbox too. Don't go with the SLP

 

[jokerman]

Dump the front rad.,2010 spnidles.set of grippers, sno eliminators 4 the boards, can,all the udates and ride it like you stole it.......LOL...BALANCE THAT CLUTCH, GEARING

 

[jokerman]

Dump the front rad.,2010 spindles,can,balance the clutch,vents,intake,FBF cable, I'm sure I left sum ****out, RIDE IT LIKE A RENTAL!!! LOL....OH YEAH GET A 2ND JOB..LOL....

 

[markoo]

I would say if your on a budget buy something else. Some 900's had little problems but alot of them had alot of problems. Alot of 900's have problems with cranks snapping, broken motor mounts, bad tps, and serious belt heat burning out clutches and belts. Also stock they are heavy. If you want to spend a couple thousand dollars on one you can make an awesome machine out of it but it still will need constant tinkering to keep it going the way it should. Who knows maybe you will be lucky and get one of the ''good" ones.

 

[bannockrider]

If you cant go to much into it i think a pipe, can, clutching, venting, and motor mounts are a good start.

 

[trevormezz]

agreed with stuff above,
must haves
vents
scratchers
intake
radiator delete
can

once you save a lil more
buy the pipe
side vents
3211115 belt
new skis
4 inch riser
front shocks so you aint a snow plow pushing snow
2 wheel kit in rear

and a lilttle more
2011 pro ride rmk lol

 

[Redd]

1115 belt would be the most important and clutching/gearing, imo.
I would start with the most detramental failures before I would "mod" it to make it run better, go with reliability first and try to stay as far away from the "kiss of death"
tb boots too! protect yer motor!

 

[Weatherbyman]

1. Radiator Delete, 2. CompFusion Front Motor Mounts, 3. FBF Throttle/Oil Cable, 4. BALANCE CLUTCH, 5. Holtz or '09 and up Dragon spindles, 6. VENTS, lots of vents, 7. Pipe, Can, and Fire 'n Ice Intake to get started.

Or, you could spend the same amount and get a 2011 Pro RMK!

 

[J.Jensen]

As much as I would love a Pro RMK, in Norway they sell for around $25000.

Snowmobiles are REALLY expencive here, which is why I'm going for a used one. An 06 900 is around $10-12k.

 

[Weatherbyman]

How about a 2007 or 2008 700 RMK? To be honest, if I knew when I bought my 900 what I know now, I would be riding a 2008 700 Dragon RMK!

 

[J.Jensen]

Most newer I've seen are either high milage, too high priced or 600's.

Snowmobiling and Norway just don't go well together, as the government has, over the last decades, has taken all things even remotely fun and taxed from here to the moon...

So basically price is the reason I'm looking at an older sled, and with no substitute for cubic inches, I want a 9

After seeing the huge amount of knowledge on what makes these things work I'm not that scared from it anymore.

 

[defysgravity]

Are you sure it's in good shape? Most importantly you need to have it looked over thoroughly. Intake boots, oil cable and oil hoses under the throttle bodies, compression test, crank run out and has the primary been balanced?
Crank run out and clutch balance would be the first priority before I added anything.
Then like what has been said earlier, radiator delete and a pipe and can to start....biggest weight savings and performance gain for lowest cost.....and some vents.

 

[J.Jensen]

I would be shocked if I found ne here with a balanced primary. From the look of it, most of the ones I've seen are just fuelled, driven and serviced at the dealer. SLP bolt-ons are also common.

I got two sleds I'm looking at now.
One all stock, not even reclutched or a can.
The other has full SLP engine perf. kit, changed spindles and ski's, boondocker NOS and controller, EGT gauge, reclutched, vent kits ++. This is also the best condition one, and its a Dragon. It needs a check like everyone and then the mounts, throttle cable etc replaced for peace og mind. A lot ledd expencive to "complete".

What is crank run out?

 

[Franz]

As much as I would love a Pro RMK, in Norway they sell for around $25000.

Snowmobiles are REALLY expencive here, which is why I'm going for a used one. An 06 900 is around $10-12k.

That can't be in dollars... right?


"Crank runout" is the amount that the PTO side of the crank is actually wobbling. It can start wobbling from blowing a belt or excessive engine movement from bad mounts. Imagine that clutch whipping around at 7500 rpm and it makes sense why a crank PTO would break off.

 

[05900]

That can't be in dollars... right?


So what does it cost to ship a sled over there anyway?

 

[sno_mo_racer]

I would be shocked if I found ne here with a balanced primary. From the look of it, most of the ones I've seen are just fuelled, driven and serviced at the dealer. SLP bolt-ons are also common.

I got two sleds I'm looking at now.
One all stock, not even reclutched or a can.
The other has full SLP engine perf. kit, changed spindles and ski's, boondocker NOS and controller, EGT gauge, reclutched, vent kits ++. This is also the best condition one, and its a Dragon. It needs a check like everyone and then the mounts, throttle cable etc replaced for peace og mind. A lot ledd expencive to "complete".

I would go with the second one as it already has all the add ons. Thats a few thousand $$ right there and for the shipping to you most likely will be quite a few more $$ and as you said looks like the better condition one. But if you haven't already check the basics first as stated above(compression test, etc..)

What is crank run out?

I would go with the second one as it already has all the add ons. Thats a few thousand $$ right there and for the shipping to you most likely will be quite a few more $$ and as you said looks like the better condition one. But if you haven't already check the basics first as stated above(compression test, etc..)

"What is crank run out?"

As the miles are added your bearings on the crank wear out and creates free play which = to more problems in the cylinder/pistons. Not sure What tools are used though haven't done it.
Pretty sure it is a gauge or something that goes on the end of crank with clutch off and measures the amount of movement (wobble) at the tip of crank.

If I am wrong someone please correct me.