Idiling Forward Problem - HELP

[koben]

I have a 2012 Pro with about 250 miles on it. I just put an HPS can on it, and now when it's idling the track is spinning and it's moving forward. Also my RPMS have dropped between 150-200.

Any ideas on an easy fix?

Obviously I can't have the track spinning when idling, and I really don't want to deal with switching cans.

***No other mods have been done. Only the can.

 

[rotax]

Also my RPMS have dropped between 150-200.

Stock can.
Best HP, best sound dampening, best for keeping riding areas open.

Yes, I know its not what people want to hear after spending that much $.
But people need to understand it regardless.

Only can I'd consider is SLP if a guy insists on throwing $ away. (Don't get me wrong, their pipe 'kit'/combo does seem to work)


Can should have zero to do with track spinning at idle; adjust your belt deflection to resolve that.

 

[friscospices.com]

Adjust your belt

 

[Oregonsledder]

Adjust the belt to spec. I like a little track creep at idle with the track in the air, but just a little.

 

[slimboydew2]

Best sound dampening? I have a pro and it sounded like a sewing machine with the stock can- couldn't stand it.

 

[Dartos]

I would like an even quieter than stock can. Like Cadillac quiet.

Oh, you need to adjust your belt deflection.

 

[Going West]

Yup, nothing to do with the can, your belt is too tight.

 

[rotax]

To remove tension on the belt:

Insert your belt removal tool, turn it 1 or 2 turns to take some pressure off the 'deflection adjustment' bolt. NOTE: Do this, or risk breaking the adjuster bolt, been there, done that, lesson learned.
Take a 7/16" (I believe thats right) and loosen the NUT on the bolt.
Holding the wrench on the nut; take an allen key, insert into the bolt and turn CLOCKWISE (tighten) 1/2 a turn at a time or so.
Retighten the nut; snug is fine, don't crank on it.
Remove your belt removal tool.

Lift rear of sled, engage clutch and spin track once or twice, nothing crazy is required.

Do this till your track stops spinning or JUST barely creeps.
I also prefer the creeping track, just before it starts to squeel.
Creates the most efficient clutching this way from my experience.

 

[koben]

To remove tension on the belt:

Insert your belt removal tool, turn it 1 or 2 turns to take some pressure off the 'deflection adjustment' bolt. NOTE: Do this, or risk breaking the adjuster bolt, been there, done that, lesson learned.
Take a 7/16" (I believe thats right) and loosen the NUT on the bolt.
Holding the wrench on the nut; take an allen key, insert into the bolt and turn CLOCKWISE (tighten) 1/2 a turn at a time or so.
Retighten the nut; snug is fine, don't crank on it.
Remove your belt removal tool.

Lift rear of sled, engage clutch and spin track once or twice, nothing crazy is required.

Do this till your track stops spinning or JUST barely creeps.
I also prefer the creeping track, just before it starts to squeel.
Creates the most efficient clutching this way from my experience.

Thanks for the help, this is exactly what I needed!