i need instructions to change a recoil rope

[knee deep in it]

I do this every year and, only after fighting with it for a while do I come up with the easy way to do this.

It is impossible for me to change the rope without having the spring SSSPPPPRRROOOIIIINNNGGG at me forcing my 10 minute job into an hour or two of frustration and language suitable for a golf course..

Does anyone have the simple way memorized? How do i get that spring back in?

 

[m8magicandmystery]

Hook the end of the main spring around the
mounting lug in the case.
2. Insert the main spring into the case; then wind it in
a counterclockwise direction until the complete
spring is installed.
��NOTE: The main spring must seat evenly in the
recoil case.
FS242
3. Insert the rope through the hole in the roller and tie
a knot in the end; then wrap the rope counterclockwise
around the roller leaving approximately 50
cm (20 in.) of rope free of the roller.
4. Apply low-temperature grease to the main spring
and hub.
5. Align the hook in the end of the main spring with
the notch in the roller.
6. Carefully slide the roller over the hub and engage
the spring with the roller; then install the bushing.
FS243
7. Install the return spring making sure the short leg
of the spring is properly installed in the hole in the
roller; then install the pawl making sure the return
spring is properly positioned in the notch of the
pawl.
FS244
8. Slide the end of the rope through the rope guide of
the case; then tie a slip-knot in the rope.
9. Apply a low-temperature grease to the friction
plate. Place the pawl activator into position on the
friction plate making sure the arms of the activator
are properly positioned to the pawl.
FS240
10. Place the friction plate into position allowing it to
rest on the friction plate spring; then install the
bolt/bolt w/washer (coated with blue Loctite #243)
and thread the bolt in until it contacts the friction
plate.
FS245
11. Press down on the friction plate and tighten the
bolt to 1.5 kg-m (11 ft-lb).
FS246
12. With 50 cm (20 in.) of rope exposed, hook the
rope in the notch of the roller.
13. Rotate the roller four or five turns counter-clockwise;
then release the rope from the notch and
allow the rope to retract.
14. Pull the rope out two or three times to check for
correct tension.
��NOTE: Increasing the rotations in step 13 will
increase spring tension.
INSTALLING
1. Place the starter assembly into position against the
magneto case.
2. Secure the starter with cap screws. Tighten to 1.1
kg-m (8 ft-lb).
��NOTE: Before tightening the cap screws, slowly
pull the recoil rope until the pawl engages; then
tighten the cap screws. This will center the recoil
against the magneto case.
3. Thread the rope through the bushing in the console;
then install the handle and secure with a knot.
Seat the cap.
4. Release the slip-knot in the rope.

 

[Rizzo]

Now THAT is a great set of directions..

 

[blackcloud2k]

Hook the end of the main spring around the
mounting lug in the case.
2. Insert the main spring into the case; then wind it in
a counterclockwise direction until the complete
spring is installed.
��NOTE: The main spring must seat evenly in the
recoil case.
FS242
3. Insert the rope through the hole in the roller and tie
a knot in the end; then wrap the rope counterclockwise
around the roller leaving approximately 50
cm (20 in.) of rope free of the roller.
4. Apply low-temperature grease to the main spring
and hub.
5. Align the hook in the end of the main spring with
the notch in the roller.
6. Carefully slide the roller over the hub and engage
the spring with the roller; then install the bushing.
FS243
7. Install the return spring making sure the short leg
of the spring is properly installed in the hole in the
roller; then install the pawl making sure the return
spring is properly positioned in the notch of the
pawl.
FS244
8. Slide the end of the rope through the rope guide of
the case; then tie a slip-knot in the rope.
9. Apply a low-temperature grease to the friction
plate. Place the pawl activator into position on the
friction plate making sure the arms of the activator
are properly positioned to the pawl.
FS240
10. Place the friction plate into position allowing it to
rest on the friction plate spring; then install the
bolt/bolt w/washer (coated with blue Loctite #243)
and thread the bolt in until it contacts the friction
plate.
FS245
11. Press down on the friction plate and tighten the
bolt to 1.5 kg-m (11 ft-lb).
FS246
12. With 50 cm (20 in.) of rope exposed, hook the
rope in the notch of the roller.
13. Rotate the roller four or five turns counter-clockwise;
then release the rope from the notch and
allow the rope to retract.
14. Pull the rope out two or three times to check for
correct tension.
��NOTE: Increasing the rotations in step 13 will
increase spring tension.
INSTALLING
1. Place the starter assembly into position against the
magneto case.
2. Secure the starter with cap screws. Tighten to 1.1
kg-m (8 ft-lb).
��NOTE: Before tightening the cap screws, slowly
pull the recoil rope until the pawl engages; then
tighten the cap screws. This will center the recoil
against the magneto case.
3. Thread the rope through the bushing in the console;
then install the handle and secure with a knot.
Seat the cap.
4. Release the slip-knot in the rope.

you forgot to add in there to have a 12pk of cold ones on hand to take away the pain just incase the spring does come out several times on you....always does on me atleast...

 

[knee deep in it]

thanks guys

any tips on the best technique for winding the spring?

 

[Killerk]

Take the spring in you're hand and start rolling it together... Be sure you start with a diameter smaller than the finish diameter neede so it will drop in the case... Each time you switch hands, be sure to keep tension so the spring does not unwind causing the diameter to be too big.
Once it is wound tight, pinch it with needle nose vise grips.
Then simply drop it in the case, attatch the hook and release the vise grips... It will expand and seat itself.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

^^ similar to this, once you get the thing almost all the way to where you want it, there should be a hole throught the part your winding it onto, slide a small screwdriver through it and use it to catch the end of the spring, this way, it cant unwind, and you can place it in the housing without trying to hold the spring underneath and install into the housing. then, once you lay it in, just slip hte screwdriver out and it should make a lot of noise and unwind and catch itself in place, then wind it up to a suitable level, and install your rope as need be so it doesnt bind on full pull, but also has enough tension. its a simple trick and makes the project go from 2 hours to about 5 minutes or less with 2 people involved. the extra hands really do help... and makes sure when using the screwdriver to hold the spring, you have something so it doesnt just push out like it likes to do.

good luck!!

 

[travydog]

its about as easy to go pay the 50 bucks and have your local mechanic do it there will be alot less words said and less scraped nuckles

 

[MPS]

I do this every year and, only after fighting with it for a while do I come up with the easy way to do this.

It is impossible for me to change the rope without having the spring SSSPPPPRRROOOIIIINNNGGG at me forcing my 10 minute job into an hour or two of frustration and language suitable for a golf course..

Does anyone have the simple way memorized? How do i get that spring back in?

I did this sh*t a year ago....yuk! Yes, I had lots of beer handy! You do this every year? WTF!? Are you into self mutilation too!? I ended up using climbing rope...it was a suggestion and it does seem much stronger. Have fun!

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94379

.

 

[moyiesledhead]

Why are you pulling the spring out in the first place? No need to do that just to change the rope. It helps to have two people, but just wind the disk to tension the spring (the same direction you would if you were starting the sled), feed the new rope in through the recoil hole and into the anchor slot in the disk, and let the rope retract back in. In fact most of them have a slot in the disk so you can install the new rope, then tension it, and then feed the rope out through the hole in the recoil. Piece of cake!

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

very true...^^^^ to take the rope out you dont even need to take the little clip that allows the inside and the outside of the recoil assembly apart, you should be able to sneak the rope in between and just do it that way, so even if you let go, the spring is inside, you just have to wind it back up before you feed the rope in!

 

[Beels]

Why are you pulling the spring out in the first place? No need to do that just to change the rope. It helps to have two people, but just wind the disk to tension the spring (the same direction you would if you were starting the sled), feed the new rope in through the recoil hole and into the anchor slot in the disk, and let the rope retract back in. In fact most of them have a slot in the disk so you can install the new rope, then tension it, and then feed the rope out through the hole in the recoil. Piece of cake!

^ What he said ^

Very easy...

 

[shortman]

Why are you pulling the spring out in the first place? No need to do that just to change the rope. It helps to have two people, but just wind the disk to tension the spring (the same direction you would if you were starting the sled), feed the new rope in through the recoil hole and into the anchor slot in the disk, and let the rope retract back in. In fact most of them have a slot in the disk so you can install the new rope, then tension it, and then feed the rope out through the hole in the recoil. Piece of cake!

X 2
Did one the other day and it took longer to take the recoil off than it did to put the rope in. Very, very easy.

 

[raceu4it]

with all that effort, sure hope you didn't put the rope in backwards as the threads are wound to come out of the rewind for more strength.

 

[knee deep in it]

2. Insert the main spring into the case; then wind it in
a counterclockwise direction until the complete
spring is installed.

well, the whole effen point of this thread was to figure out how to do this.

Does anyone have any advice on how to do this? is there a technique?????

reminds me of a Haynes manual. Step 1 - remove engine, step 2 repalce broken parts. Step 3 - instal fixed engine

ok, i figured it out

thanks

go back to what you were doing.

 

[Barton]

Your welcome.

 

[H2SNOW]

too funny ..get it sprung right and feed the cord in ............now the trick is to not over cam the spring with too many revolutions LOL nobody told you that little kicker


its actually the easiest way ..you just have to have a good feel for the spring and giver your self enough revolutions to crank and still have enough to suck it back in ..

PS Dougy that was one hell of a quote you did ....the thing that gave it away was the little box ....held there thru HTmL protocol LOL

 

[shortstop20]

The best way to wind the spring is to hammer a nail into your work bench, hook the inside end of the spring on it, and strart wrapping away, both hands are free.

 

[MacDawg productions]

o.k, I just battled this problem. Probably THE most ignorant chore, is winding that recoil and putting it back in the case!!!! I mean, I didn't think it was possible. After reading what shortstop recommended, with the finish nail in the bench I thought that was the secret. It helped loads, made it possible, but more importantly, winding the spring the right way. On my pull cord unit (polaris rmk 900) you have to wind that spring CLOCKWISE!! Then grab it with plyers, but grab it near the end hook so you will have control fitting that loop on the case!! After doing it about 4 times, you get skillz. My fingertips are still bleeding
!! Then button it up. I'm pretty stoked I got it finished. Good luck.