How to set up controls going from standard RMK bars to RSI?

[theletup]

So I just purchased a set of RSI handlebars for my 2011 STANDARD RMK 800. It has the old school polaris controls bolted to the back of the old school brake master. The problem is, my new RSI don't have enough room for the control on the left side. I need to figure out a solid way to change this.

Here's what I'm thinking so far:
1. Fastrax billet 4 button handle console http://ftxmotorsports.com/index.php?cID=121

2. Different master cylinder (maybe just a polaris pro version or maybe wilwood?)

3. Relocate hand and thumb warmer switches to the console above the gas cap.



Has anybody done this and have pictures? Any advice?

 

[CROW]

RSI has (or had) a kit to move the switches to the console.

 

[richracer1]

Get a hold of RSI and see if they have the control relocation kits for the Pro.

I bought their kit for my '09 RMK w/the std steel bars and got it installed a couple of weeks ago.

 

[CROW]

Get a hold of RSI and see if they have the control relocation kits for the Pro.

I bought their kit for my '09 RMK w/the std steel bars and got it installed a couple of weeks ago.

Can you give us some info about the install? Is the wiring plug and play or do you have to splice?

 

[Rick!]

About 15 minutes with a rat tail file will allow the LHC to slide over far enough to put a full grip on. I've done this a few times putting Pro Tapers on my IQ's.


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[mountainhorse]

What Rick! said...

Unless

You are raising the bars... then, IMO... Relocate the switch pod to the console... and extend the kill switch and warmer wires out of it...
Still keeps it within reach and does not mod the factory wiring past return to stock if needed.

There are 13 wires in that cluster plus the brake light switch wires.

I'm a fan of the Dragon/PRO/IQR master cylinder over the SkiDoo/Wilwood cylinder... It will take a lot more abuse. (direct experience).

You can leave your stock bars untouched except for the easy removal of the left hand controls

Wildchild makes a great mount for the Ski Doos... Might work for your application with a little fab of a bracket for the backside of the control since you will will be removing the back half of the assembly with the Master Cylinder.

You would need to use an IQR/Dragon/PRO-RMk master cyl or an aftermarket Wilwood though.

Click Here

 

[mountainhorse]

Other thing to consider... If your sled is under warranty... cutting into that harness for other switches will probably void your warranty.. or at least make it a PITA to get any thing covered that could be remotely related to electrical issues.

 

[diamonddave]

He's alive...

 

[richracer1]

Can you give us some info about the install? Is the wiring plug and play or do you have to splice?

No plug-n-play here. All cut and install connectors with some splicing to install the OEM kill switch end, the bar & thumb heater end on to the new ones.

You can also get/order all the parts, such as the master cylinder & line, mode, headlight, hand warmer switches, and mount plate, for a Pro and do the relocation yourself. I might be able to help with the wiring, but I'm not 100% sure my 09 RMK has the same color coded wires for the functions as the new sleds do.

 

[richracer1]

Here's the wiring colors for the individual functions for the IQ-RAW left hand controls:

Hand warmer: Dk blue, Lt blue w/red, and a jumper wire

Headlights: Green, yellow, and a jumper wire

Mode: White w/red, brown, and white w/black

Thumb warmer: orange w/grey, white w/grey, and a jumper wire

Reverse: Grey and black w/blue

The jumper wires mentioned above will all connect to the red w/white wire in the harness.

Need to mention that this was on an '09 700 RMK.

 

[coolx2]

I swapped all my standard rmk over to the pro style controls. Toughest part was getting the wiring to fit just right in the console. The pro's have a special plug in the harness. You can make it all work though. I'll get some pics in the morning and post them up.

 

[mountainhorse]

If you are going to cut into the harness... IMO...Use Deutsch connector... Cut the harness clean...Solder (carefully) the pins onto the wires... then you have a sanitary splice... watertight and easy to manage. I solder because I dont want to buy the expensive crimp tool.

Then you can put whatever length "pigtail" on the other side that you want.

 

[theletup]

Thank you for all the great info guys. Looks like it should be pretty simple