How to paint snowmobile hoods better????
- Thread starter winter
- Start date
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speeddemon
Well-known member
wet sand it with 400 grit wetsand paper . get a red scotchbrite and some comet or final sanding past ( from paint store ) warm water scotchbrite hood good with the comet or final sand . wash off . get some wax and grease remover wipe it on and wipe off real good till dry . (dont let evaporate it will leave a film that can cause issues while painting ) i also use sprayway glass cleaner to do my final wipe down ( gets rid of any static but not needed ) tack down the hood with a tack cloth , spray a light coat of DP sealer over the hood let flash for 20-30 mins then spray ur paint .. should stick just fine then .
mike
mike
What paint are you using? I have never had an issue as long as it is scuff sanded first.
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Snowjunky
Well-known member
I use a flex additive in the paint.It has worked well. Gives the paint a little give so to say.I use Chromabase products and the only problems I have had is fish eyes and that was from a bad airhose.As far as prep work speeddemon is right on.Ask any painter and they will tell you that they love the day they paint. Prepwork is 90% of the paint job.I have had excellent results with the scuff pad and comet. A trick I learned here on the old forum. I hope this was helpful.
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speeddemon
Well-known member
thanx for that ^^^^^. ive been in the painting business my whole life as well as my dad, grandfather and uncle ... great industry ... as far as the flex additive goes yes it helps with flexable parts but it will only last a week or two once the paint is cured it is done !!! it is intended to keep the paint soft and plyable so u can assemble ur parts such as plastic bumpers etc without fracturing the paint . just another thing to help the painter/bodyman ... works great though good luck on ur venture
mike
Flex in paint
Flex add DOES stay with the paint (urethane sealer and c/c ONLY catalyze your basecoat) , Just ask any of your paint reps out there. If they say it comes out, They are not up to speed with there products and I would shop somewhere else... In the newer products of Du Pont (flex add. #2350), stays "in" there for the life of the paint, Back about 10 years ago this was not true, the flex would evaporate out with the solvents... So do what the other guys say clean it GOOD prep is everything, Scuff paste in the Du Pont line is # 2311 if you are working with raw plastics then scuff paste #2310 Also with Raw plastics if you don't use #2310 you must first use #2320cleaner folowed by #2330 before flexed sealer, Catalized Base and flexed C/C. Paint products change everyday, What happened 5 years ago is old news.
Hope this helps
http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.com/dpc/en/us/html/prodinfo/chromasystem/H-19287_2350S.pdf
Flex add DOES stay with the paint (urethane sealer and c/c ONLY catalyze your basecoat) , Just ask any of your paint reps out there. If they say it comes out, They are not up to speed with there products and I would shop somewhere else... In the newer products of Du Pont (flex add. #2350), stays "in" there for the life of the paint, Back about 10 years ago this was not true, the flex would evaporate out with the solvents... So do what the other guys say clean it GOOD prep is everything, Scuff paste in the Du Pont line is # 2311 if you are working with raw plastics then scuff paste #2310 Also with Raw plastics if you don't use #2310 you must first use #2320cleaner folowed by #2330 before flexed sealer, Catalized Base and flexed C/C. Paint products change everyday, What happened 5 years ago is old news.
Hope this helps
http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.com/dpc/en/us/html/prodinfo/chromasystem/H-19287_2350S.pdf
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All good replies. If you still have issues, then try using an adhesion promoter such as SEM or bulldog or allmost any supplied by a quality automotive paint store.
5
550ss
New member
I use the AutoAir Paints from my local Auto Color and Equipment Paint store. IMO, the best for hoods, bike tanks, airbrushing etc. it does it all. Its in a plastic bottle with a shaker inside thats already premixed and ready to shoot. Dont need to thin it out or anything...tons of colors too or you can mix to make a new one. Add a little flex if you want, (ive never found a need for it) and your ready to go.
hood painting
I would speak with curt at fastrax. I am unaware if he is still doing paint work, but when he lived in alaska a few years back, he painted one of the lightweight race only cowlings from polaris for me. The paint job was fantastic, and survived every rollover untill i finally broke the cowling enough that i didnt want to run it anylonger. Never a paint chip, no fade, when the fiberglass broke the paint stayed in tact around the breaks! He has done some amazing things, and i am glad to see that he is doing well with fastrax, so give him a call, might be able to get him to do one for you if he is still practicing his painting skills.
I would speak with curt at fastrax. I am unaware if he is still doing paint work, but when he lived in alaska a few years back, he painted one of the lightweight race only cowlings from polaris for me. The paint job was fantastic, and survived every rollover untill i finally broke the cowling enough that i didnt want to run it anylonger. Never a paint chip, no fade, when the fiberglass broke the paint stayed in tact around the breaks! He has done some amazing things, and i am glad to see that he is doing well with fastrax, so give him a call, might be able to get him to do one for you if he is still practicing his painting skills.
thanx for that ^^^^^. ive been in the painting business my whole life as well as my dad, grandfather and uncle ... great industry ... as far as the flex additive goes yes it helps with flexable parts but it will only last a week or two once the paint is cured it is done !!! it is intended to keep the paint soft and plyable so u can assemble ur parts such as plastic bumpers etc without fracturing the paint . just another thing to help the painter/bodyman ... works great though good luck on ur venture
mike
I haven't used flex agent for years and done many plastic car bumpers. Prep is the key to your paint haveing good adhesion. A tiny bit of activator in the base helps. Try to use a up to date clear uratane. Some older dupont clears tend to not flex as good. Remember, the thicker the mils. of paint is the more chance of it chiping or pealing. Its pretty hard to have your paint not chip or scratch when you bounce off the odd tree once in a while like me. My sled fell off my sled deck ramp last week on its side and only made a small scratch. Could of been a result of smelling to many paint fumes! Keep your nose out of the paint can and you'll do fine. Happy painting!
