How to make Powder-Pro's less aggressive?

[ripsass]

I have read about and seen the Carl's Cycle mod, but that seems to be more for darting and side-hilling.
I'm having serious issues with steering effort on my 09 Crossfire SP with Powder-Pro's. They are just way to hard to turn.
I have the limiters all the way out, the preload maxed on the center shock (even running a 170# spring) rear arm in the upper hole.
Only thing I haven't done yet is drill out the lower hole in the tunnel to drop the skid in the front.

I love these skis in the deep powder but they are killing me everywhere else. I've ridden M's with other skis and IQ's that are super easy to turn so I know there has to be something I can do here.

Anyone ever make changes to the keel on these to lessen the effort required to turn?
They cut like a lazer beam but require Schwarzeneger strength to ride. I'm willing to sacrifice a little grab for less effort.

 

[80arrow]

I thought that I read somewhere that if you use the other set of holes to mount the ski to the ski mount that it uses less force to turn..? I could be way off but .....

 

[rmk2112]

Her's the post that talked about it, hope it helps.

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85874&highlight=SLP+Carl's+Ski

 

[icr]

I thought that I read somewhere that if you use the other set of holes to mount the ski to the ski mount that it uses less force to turn..? I could be way off but .....

From SLPs website...

"The SLP ski saddles have optional mounting locations to allow adjustment for different snow conditions and riding styles. With the four holes provided in the saddle, the ski can be moved forward for aggressive response or the ski can be moved rearward which results in less darting or tracking (arm effort will increase with the ski in the rearward position). With this feature you can fine tune the handling to match your riding style and snow conditions.

As a starting point it is best to mount the ski in the forward position for most snow conditions and riding styles. If you encounter darting or tracking that is excessive for your riding comfort, then try positioning the ski in the rearward position."


That said, Powder Pros are aggressive skis, if you're already in the front mounting position I'd suggest a different ski, sly dogs seem to be one of the least aggressive skis on the market, simmons may work for you as well. Powder Pros are a popular ski and I doubt you'd have trouble selling or trading them if that's what you decide is best.

 

[ripsass]

Her's the post that talked about it, hope it helps.

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85874&highlight=SLP+Carl's+Ski

As I said in my post. That's the Carls Cycle mod, for sidehilling and darting.

NOT the issue I'm having with steering effort. Thanks though.

 

[PhantomCat]

Have you checked your alignment ? I know when I put them on my firecat they were very darty..checked and adjusted the alignment. Still will dart on the trail a little, but it is WAY better.

 

[ripsass]

F**k!
Did anyone actually read my post?

THE ISSUE IS NOT DARTING. It's steering EFFORT.

Really really really hard to TURN. I need to lighten up the effort required to turn the bars when steering.

 

[icr]

F**k!
Did anyone actually read my post?

THE ISSUE IS NOT DARTING. It's steering EFFORT.

Really really really hard to TURN. I need to lighten up the effort required to turn the bars when steering.

Did you read mine? What mounting position are the skis in?

 

[PhantomCat]

Sorry man

Alignment will have some to do with turning also. Example: If the skis are pointed in or out that will create more friction. The other thing that would make them harder to turn would be to much ski pressure.

I did drop the front of my skid down 3/4 inch and did not touch limiter straps or center shock on skid.

Hope this helps.

 

[sled_guy]

Get rid of the PP bottoms and buy a set of SLT bottoms.

sled_guy

 

[ripsass]

Ok, they are in the rear hole. I'm going out to change them to the front right now and rip around the yard a bit.
Just aligned them to 1/4" toe out.

I'll post up the results from moving them forward asap.

 

[rmk 700]

thats wierd my sled is so easy to turn with the powder pro skis

 

[Mr. BB]

Assuming " preload maxed on center shock" meant maximum tension, I'd back off adjusting nuts until you have about 4 threads showing and give it a whirl. If you already have it adjusted to soft position, then assuming you have floats (front)I'd check psi. Factory setting is 65 psi. Let out 10 psi take a ride, go from there. The thing is I do'nt know how low you can go without affecting the ride thru the whoopis. Fett Bros. makes an air chamber for more capacity. I've just put them on my M and in the garage it gives more travel and a little softer, so that's a possible. You obviously or so it seems have to much ski pressure. On my 04 900 MC I used pps and I had to soften the preload on the springs to make it turn better. Just my thoughts.

 

[sled_guy]

I just re-read your first post and have a couple of questions.

When are they hard to turn? In all conditions or only on hard pack or ice or what?

What carbides did you put on them?

sled_guy

 

[Frostbite]

I'd suggest trying the lower holes for the front of the skid.

That should take some weight off your skis, it might even be enough that you might end up moving your ski mount bolts to the forward holes?

Good luck

 

[ripsass]

They are the 6" SLP carbides that they came with.
They are hard to turn anywhere but in powder.
Brutal on med-hard packed snow.

Did 6 miles of moguled up trail saturday and by the end of the trail (where the play area is) my arms were shot.

 

[Frostbite]

Mine have a 4" carbide. I didn't figure I'd need 6" of carbide riding in the mountains.

Perhaps that's part of your problem?

 

[Gros Chien]

here you go

 

[PhantomCat]

Rip... how was your test run ?

 

[ripsass]

Mine have a 4" carbide. I didn't figure I'd need 6" of carbide riding in the mountains.

Perhaps that's part of your problem?

Ha, neither did I!
When I bought them as a "kit" I was told they were only available in 6" and 10"! I picked the lesser of two evils.
Speaking of which, just now when I was moving mounting holes I noticed that those carbides stick down into the snow (past the already super deep center keel) by like half an inch. Friggin rudders... Also theres about an extra 2" of steel wear bar at both ends past the actual carbide inserts that I think I'm going to cut off.