How to lower actuator release psi?

[RobertTrivanovic]

Does anyone know of a way to lower the PSI on a garrett actuator? I just picked up a new turbo and the guy said it has either a 10psi or 12psi actuator on it, I want to run 8psi. What all can I do? Do I just need to find a different waste gate or is there another way to do it? Because finding a 8psi garrett actuator is much harder then youd think.

 

[gus bohne]

It's quite ez to do.
Rather than referencing airbox pressure just use pipe pressure. I do just that too. Pipe pressure runs 3 to 5 psi over boost. Thus you trip the gate to open 3 to 5 psi lower. Simple
.just add a nipple to the fat part of the pipe. Connect the line from pipe to gate and walla
Done

 

[inspector01]

It's quite ez to do.
Rather than referencing airbox pressure just use pipe pressure. I do just that too. Pipe pressure runs 3 to 5 psi over boost. Thus you trip the gate to open 3 to 5 psi lower. Simple
.just add a nipple to the fat part of the pipe. Connect the line from pipe to gate and walla
Done

That only works if you have significant pressure drop across an intercooler or something.

Loosening (threading out) the actuator arm can lower it some, but the spring is still gonna open at the same pressure, so a cheap/easy option is to add a helper spring over the actuator arm that pushes against it to open it at lower pressure. You can thread the rod and put a nut on it so that it is adjustable too.

 

[RobertTrivanovic]

It's quite ez to do.
Rather than referencing airbox pressure just use pipe pressure. I do just that too. Pipe pressure runs 3 to 5 psi over boost. Thus you trip the gate to open 3 to 5 psi lower. Simple
.just add a nipple to the fat part of the pipe. Connect the line from pipe to gate and walla
Done

That only works if you have significant pressure drop across an intercooler or something.

Loosening (threading out) the actuator arm can lower it some, but the spring is still gonna open at the same pressure, so a cheap/easy option is to add a helper spring over the actuator arm that pushes against it to open it at lower pressure. You can thread the rod and put a nut on it so that it is adjustable too.

Both ideas seem like they would work, but im more interested in hearing about inspectors method, seems safer. Do you or anyone else have any pictures of what you did? Seems relatively straight forward, just I have a bent rod instead of a straight one which makes it slightly inconvenient.

Then to test when it releases do you just put a compressor into the bleed valve and see where it opens?

 

[inspector01]

Both ideas seem like they would work, but im more interested in hearing about inspectors method, seems safer. Do you or anyone else have any pictures of what you did? Seems relatively straight forward, just I have a bent rod instead of a straight one which makes it slightly inconvenient.

Then to test when it releases do you just put a compressor into the bleed valve and see where it opens?

Ill try to find some pics, I've done it on a few budget turbo setups before.

Here is a quick one from google

Its really easy to do non-adjustable, even on the bend arm, just put a spring over and tack weld the washer to hold it in place, but an adjustable one can be a bit harder. Another option is a tension spring pulling the flap open and connected to the downpipe or somewhere else.

 

[gus bohne]

That only works if you have significant pressure drop across an intercooler or something.

Loosening (threading out) the actuator arm can lower it some, but the spring is still gonna open at the same pressure, so a cheap/easy option is to add a helper spring over the actuator arm that pushes against it to open it at lower pressure. You can thread the rod and put a nut on it so that it is adjustable too.

you are completely wrong. pipe pressure is what i use to drop my ON TRAIL boost to a max of 3 psi with an 8 psi spring in my gate. the intercooler theory you have is moot.
EVEN KTM uses the pipe pressure to operate valves, switches and signals/
your oem old style doo and poo raves were taking pressure right at the cylinder bore where flame is present.

fwiw, there are actuators on atp site, forced perf site, extreme psi site all 3 psi and up..

 

[RobertTrivanovic]

fwiw, there are actuators on atp site, forced perf site, extreme psi site all 3 psi and up..

Ill have to take a look at that.

This might be a dumb question but is there any reason I couldnt just use the waste gate off my G kit turbo? Or do I need a Garrett actuator?

 

[gus bohne]

So long as you can.make it fit of course you can

 

[inspector01]

you are completely wrong. pipe pressure is what i use to drop my ON TRAIL boost to a max of 3 psi with an 8 psi spring in my gate. the intercooler theory you have is moot.
EVEN KTM uses the pipe pressure to operate valves, switches and signals/
your oem old style doo and poo raves were taking pressure right at the cylinder bore where flame is present.

fwiw, there are actuators on atp site, forced perf site, extreme psi site all 3 psi and up..

So you are saying that by reading boost signal at the compressor outlet (which many IWG turbos already get signal from), it will be 3-5 psi higher than at the airbox? Not unless there is something restricting it somewhere along the way, like an intercooler causing massive pressure drops. Please explain.

When I change pressure signal from comp housing to intake manifold, its within ~2 psi, and that is with an intercooler.

 

[akMcat]

So you are saying that by reading boost signal at the compressor outlet (which many IWG turbos already get signal from), it will be 3-5 psi higher than at the airbox? Not unless there is something restricting it somewhere along the way, like an intercooler causing massive pressure drops. Please explain.

When I change pressure signal from comp housing to intake manifold, its within ~2 psi, and that is with an intercooler.

Pretty sure Gus is talking about referencing exhaust pipe pressure, re-read his first post with that in mind.

 

[RobertTrivanovic]

Anyone have a trick to getting the center section of the turbo loose from the exhaust housing? I need to rotate it and it seems to be pretty seized on there

 

[gus bohne]

penatrating oil and a rubber mallet..

be nice, it should free up with some gentle tapping. please dont gently swing a 5 pound sledge hammer at it..LOL !!!!

I should have clarified it better above as well. I meant exhaust pipe pressure. nothing else.

Gus

 

[Tonysnoo]

It's quite ez to do.
Rather than referencing airbox pressure just use pipe pressure. I do just that too. Pipe pressure runs 3 to 5 psi over boost. Thus you trip the gate to open 3 to 5 psi lower. Simple
.just add a nipple to the fat part of the pipe. Connect the line from pipe to gate and walla
Done

When Gus explained this to me a few years back, i was intrigued. I tested it with fuel pressure reference then and it was exactly as he mentioned.

 

[TurboM700]

You can also get a two into one air switch. Trail ride with the switch routing exhaust gas to the wastegate. When you get to the hills flip the switch to run intake pressure to the wastegate. I have done this on most my turbo sleds. Makes trail riding eaiser.

If you hide the switch well enough you can flip it when your freinds ride your sled so you dont have to worry about them wrecking something.

Here is the switch
http://www.mcmaster.com/#61345k73/=td6qpi