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How to Install a Heater and Electrical in an Enclosed Trailer - II

Enclosed Trailer Electrical & Heater Upgrade

I decided to install a RV Heater and 120VAC to the enclosed trailer. I wanted to show the installation to help others who may try to attempt it. Click on pictures to enlarge. Enjoy!


Heater
I decided to go with a 30K BTU RV/camper forced air heater.
I didn’t want a catalytic heater. I also didn’t like the smell of the Mr. Heaters.
The best deal I found in a month while searching Ebay and Craigslist was Duo-Therm - 65930-064 30K BTU. I really wanted a Suburban or Atwood for its size, but got this for $100 locally. I’ve seen used Suburbans go for around $200-$500. I might upgrade later, but seems to work great. It is only rated up 4,000 ft, but not a problem in WI.






Propane Tank
I had to figure out a Propane solution. I didn’t have room for an outside tank mounted in front of the V like campers are setup. I didn’t want to keep it inside just for safety reasons. I seen people do it before, but decided against it. I wanted to do a permanent mount propane tank mounted underneath the trailer in-between the axles. I kept my eye open for a ASME Horizontal Permanent Mount RV propane tank. The ASME tanks are different then the DOT (non-permanent) Horizontal Mount tanks, and more expensive. The DOT(non-permanent) Horizontal Mount in service uses horizontal mount, but when you need to fill it, it needs to be vertical. The DOT regulation tanks cannot be mounted underneath the trailer. Only the ASME tank would fit my needs. The Permanent ASME tanks have a Relief Valve, Vapor Service Valve, Outage Valve (Fixed Liquid Level Gauge), 80% Stop-Fill Valve. New ones go for $500. I kept my eye out for one on Craigslist. After awhile of searching, I found one for $50. I had to drive 1 ½ hrs to get it, but worth it. The tank was a 15.4 gallon tank, so plenty big.

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/lp-gas/lp-gas-tanks.htm


I decided to repaint it before it was mounted. Wire brush and Rustoleum Clean Metals Primer & Paint. I Rubber band a plastic bag over the valve assemblies and paint away.

Before



After Wire Brush and sanding




Let the painting begin






Electrical
I needed to have 8A DC available for the heater. I wanted 120VAC power outlets installed as well. To supply enough current and run this setup I had a couple options. For the majority of the time I will always be around a 120VAC outlet available(shore power). At my house, hotel parking lots, etc.. I will eventually put in 2 – 6V golf cart batteries or just buy a generator for mobile locations where no power is available.
The shore power(outside house electric outlet to extension cord) is brought into a Marinco Marine On-Board Charger Inlet (15-Amp, 125-Volt). For the time being I’m not running an air compressor so 15A is fine. When I do add it, I will replace the 15A Marinco inlet with a 30A hookup.
The shore power wiring then goes to a subpanel breaker box with 3 breakers. The 3 duplex outlets are wired to the breakers for AC use.
I needed a +12VDC supply also for the heater and lights. I used a 400 watt(15A) computer power supply to power the DC loads(heater & lights, etc…) when 120VAC shore power is plugged in. The computer power supply was modified so it turns on with no load and added 8awg wires for the heavier currents. I will eventually go with a PD 9245C 45 Amp RV Converter/Charger to replace the computer power supply if I add batteries to the trailer. The computer supply was a cheap solution for the time. I added a relay so the trailer receives +12VDC from the truck when it is hooked up to the truck, but when 120VAC power is hooked up, the +12VDC switches to the computer power supply. I needed switches and circuit breakers for the +12VDC as well. I included the electrical schematic that I drew up.
Enclosed Trailer Electrical Schematic
PD 9245C 45 Amp RV Converter/Charger - http://www.bestconverter.com/PD-9245C-45-Amp-RV-ConverterCharger_p_170.html

Installations

Electrical Installation
I wanted all the electrical in an enclosed box. I found a good deal on a big 21"x16"x7" waterproof Junction Box for $55. It was used condition with small holes on the bottom already, but no big deal. Plenty enough depth to keep the power supply fan open for cooling. I cut a hole in the box. I installed breakers, buss bars, and all electronics from the schematic in there.



I installed the Junction box at the front of the V. I ran the electric wires underneath the trailer and then up the walls. I installed 3 surface mount duplex electric boxes throughout the trailer. The wiring meets in the front and is pulled through a 2” pvc conduit up to the junction box.



I added some stickers for the switches and breakers. I had some Packer decals laying around, so I decided to throw them on the box.



Plenty of room for the sleds to drive past.








Propane Tank Install
I mounted the propane tank underneath the trailer. It is located towards the back, behind the axles. I figured it was better protected behind the axle. The propane tank had mounts on it. I dropped carriage bolts from inside the trailer down. I put some big spacers on the bolt to keep the tank directly off the floor.






Propane Lines Install
The furnace requires 11 w.c pressure. I picked up a 2 stage Propane Pressure Regulator and connected it to the propane tank. I used 3/8” soft copper for the short runs and ½” black iron pipe for the long run. I used ½” steel clamps for fastening to the frame underneath.





Heater Install
The +12VDC, Ground, and 2 Thermostat wires are ran into the wall.
The 3/8” copper tubing is brought up into the wall, and then connects at the heater(3/8” flare connection). I dressed it up with some wire loom.



A shelf for the heater was built using ½” angled aluminum. It was mounted directly to the trailer tubular steel frame. I mounted to as close to the ceiling so the sleds could drive underneath it.



I used a Suburban Exterior Vent for the exterior of the trailer.





The tubing is 2” exhaust tube that I bought and had bent at a local muffler shop. It has a 45 degree end and a 22 ½ degree bend because the exterior vent sits below the heater.



Fresh Air Intake
I now have added a 2" hose for the intake. That is the other pipe sticking out of the furnace.
I did not add an exterior fresh air intake at 1st. This was incorrect.
I now added one. I bought a Suburban air intake tube(# 050906) that hooks to the exterior plate. I'll get pics updated sometime.

Thermostat
The thermostat was mounted above the Electrical Enclosed Junction Box in the front V. I added a wood mounting base for the thermostat. The thermostat was a Suburban thermostat. 2 Wires attached. I still need to get it painted.
I also added a remote override switch in the cab of the truck so I can turn on the heater when I’m driving in case I want to warm the sleds up before I arrive at my destination.
I added a LED light in the front. The normal trailer lights are not that bright. I used a LED Flood Light Utility. Very bright white.. Lights up the whole trailer now.
http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/?page=products&id=147







Ducting
The heater has 4” outlets on it. I just used 4” right angle duct outlet into 4” flexible duct tubing. I also attached a 10’ Triplewall Pipe 2 Hole down the side for more air flow. I left 1 tube hanging down. I couldn’t go all the way to the floor due to the sleds needing the space.




Future
I do plan on adding a propane remote filler for side attachment. Only so much in the budget this year.
-Generator or 2 - 6V Golf cart batteries for mobile power.
- Insulation – To fully utilize the heater and propane, I must insulate the trailer. Next year’s project…


Links!!
I did some homework on other installations. A lot of great info and suggestions out there on other setups.
Duro-therm Manual - http://www.bdub.net/manuals/DuoThermFurnace.pdf

How to Install a Furnace in an Enclosed Trailer - http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=192921

Heating an enclosed trailer –
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105068

Enclosed Trailer Tips - http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127107

Trailer Furnace Ducting - http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=91194


Regular Horizontal Mount DOT tank(NOT ASME!) http://www.makariosrv.com/manchester-lp-gas-tank-5-gal-with-gauge/
Camping in your trailer - http://www.sledspace.com/showthread.php?2008-camping-in-your-sled-trailer


Horizontal Propane Tank Installation with Remote Filler - http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/...ighlight=horizontal+propane+tank+installation


Front V twin propane mount - http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=282731

How to run propane lines - http://www.skoolie.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=569

Outside Propane Lines - http://www.skoolie.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=5409



Snowmobile Camper - http://backcountryrebels.com/showthread.php?t=16674&page=2

Other heater install
- http://rmksledder.homestead.com/enclosed.html

Other heater install- http://backcountryrebels.com/showthread.php?t=6795

Other Heater Install - http://home.comcast.net/~ssauer40/cargomate/cargomate.html


Enclosed Trailer Electrical …. Looking for advise/questions - http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=75371

Electrical Installs – Who has done their own - http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=275147

Flourescent light wiring question for my enclosed - http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113404
 
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I just did the same thing to my trailer... However I can say you did a better job, my budget only allowed for so much. Great work and enjoy it!!!

DSC_0040.jpg DSC_0038.jpg
 
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Great job on your heater!

Well except for one small detail
2012-11-17_14-13-35_989-1.jpg

2012-11-17_14-13-42_413-1.jpg


YOU need to immediately replace that ugly green bay sticker with a Vikings sticker.

Otherwise, fantastic job!
 
Thanks for the compliments!
I like the fold down benches.
I got the wooden panel painted white.
I also added some extra "head" protection on the heater shelf.


 
The small front door not ramp door. How do seal it from leaking in the rain while driving.... Mine has a door like that and i can't get it to stop
 
Update!
I wanted to give an update on my 1st season with the heater.
I used 85% of my 15.4 gallon propane tank. The estimated working hours I had in the trailer during the winter was around 100 hours. This didn't involve the heater running constantly though. It was around $45 to fill the propane tank, so I'm quite happy with the efficiency.


Air Circulation
IMPORTANT!
The key to the trailer heat, is to get a fan to really move the heat around and to the floor.
I noticed a huge temp difference between the head level and floor level. 70F on top and 40-50F on floor. Couple feet make a big difference. This is my 1st season with the 30K forced air furnace. Not insulated, but I do have the white panels on the ceiling and walls, not just the bare exterior walls. I really noticed it when it gets under 10 degrees outside. ! My feet were a little cold when working on the sled. This last weekend I temporarily added a desk mount 12" fan. I had it head level and pointed it down on 1 side. Worked great! All the snow on the floor completely melted on only 1 side of the trailer the fan was blowing directly on. The key is to really push that air around like others mentioned. The heat rises so have to get it to the floor. This summer I'm going to install 2 12" fans on the ceiling and point them down. 1 on each side.
A drain on the floor is good idea if you run into water pooling.

I'm going to add a Fan-Tastic Vent 01100WH Endless Breeze 12V Fan. It's a compact size and looks like it really moves the air. Little pricey, $70.
I actually almost bought that for my camping trips in the summertime, but I bought a RoadPro RP73002 10", the cheaper one. I'm going to permanently mount the Fan-Tastic Vent fan, and use my other Roadpro camping fan since I don't need it in the winter. The Roadpro is a decent fan, moves decent amount for my big tent while camping. I want a little more airflow in the trailer though.
They're both 12V fans and compact. The Roadpro even has a swivel on it, so I flip it up out of the way. I have a taller trailer though so it shouldn't be an issue.
 
Awesome Job.....and a great write up as well. I did the exact same thing and my rv furnace is only an 18K BTU unit but I have the whole trailer insulated and it gets warm and stays warm. The only area I dont have insulated is the floor and I probably will not insulate that just due to the melting snow. Otherwise, I use a fan as well to move the air and it does work good.

BTW......Love the Packer stickers. That gives me some additional ideas for mine. GO PACK!!!!
 
Awesome Job.....and a great write up as well. I did the exact same thing and my rv furnace is only an 18K BTU unit but I have the whole trailer insulated and it gets warm and stays warm. The only area I dont have insulated is the floor and I probably will not insulate that just due to the melting snow. Otherwise, I use a fan as well to move the air and it does work good.

BTW......Love the Packer stickers. That gives me some additional ideas for mine. GO PACK!!!!

Thanks! Just wanted to show the install to help others out.
That's nice you got that insulated. No way a 18K BTU would heat my un-insulated trailer!
I'm planning on at least insulating the ceiling this summer. I'm currently happy with the setup, but I think I could get it a little more efficient(propane, run time, battery power).

GO PACK indeed! Those were from an extra decal set I bought for my bag toss boards. A whole decal set was around $25; those pictured above were only 1 side, and doesn't show the big 13"x13" G. PM me if you want the company's info.
 
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