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How to get a fixed sheave off a PTO end without a puller?

That sucks! If you can get the broken piece from the stationary sheave shaft out of the moveable sheave, weld it back on to the stationary sheave shaft in a couple of steps (weld a bit then let it cool) in order not to transfer to much heat through the crank or crank seal. Then use the puller.
 
That sucks! If you can get the broken piece from the stationary sheave shaft out of the moveable sheave, weld it back on to the stationary sheave shaft in a couple of steps (weld a bit then let it cool) in order not to transfer to much heat through the crank or crank seal. Then use the puller.

Thats a good idea, I'll see if I can get it out of there somehow.
 
Did the same thing. Don't weld it! It's hard on the seal even if you do keep a wet rag on it. I just used an air cut off tool and it finally came off. It's very hard material though, so it will take patience.
 
I had the identical thing happen. If you do a search or look through my profile should be able to find the thread. I had to cut it off. Took forever, but if I had to do it again I could do it in ten minutes with what I learned.
 
I had this happen on my Proclimb this year. Had to cut it off with a 4.5" cutoff wheel and some other tools. Had to cut on both sides and it split off the stub. PITA trying to get it off without touching the crank stub but it worked. Then realized the crank was bent after, so check your run out.
 
Cut it off with wet rag placed in-behind sheave to dissipate heat.As a alternative if your compressor ****s the bed Lol.Drill numerous holes in a row as close together as possible and split with cold chisel.You may not have to cut/drill all the way because the pressure releases on shaft as you work your way down.

Good luck
 
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My best "guess" is that this is what happens when you run up the motor with no belt and the movable sheave smashes into the stationary sheave? Have heard of a lot of them tho which is rather disturbing!

Have FUN!

G MAN
 
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This (clutch breaking in half) has been a common issue since 2010. We started seeing it on the 2010 Dragons.

When you look at one close, it's pretty obvious why it happens...

Something during the hardening (heat treating) process is compromised.
 
So what year did they change the torque specs in the shop manual from 200 on the spider and 235 on the jam nut to 280-300 spider and 290-310 jam nut ? It would be nice to see if there's a relationship .
 
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