What is easiest and safest way to drill tank for vent? And what are odds warranty would be denied if vented tank not cap
How to drill oil tank for vent
- Thread starter szotty
- Start date
Hedge your bets and do TRS $14.99 alternative
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=386404
Better vent, no additional hole in oil tank.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=386404
Better vent, no additional hole in oil tank.
I had seen that topic when it started and not against it just wanted a vent not in cap case cap would fail have all stuff at shop since dec 3rd just been putting off cus don't know how to go about drilling tank
Dam was hoping didn't have to pull and empty but it's better to be safe
M
MarcJon
New member
I pulled the vent systems off an older Polaris parts sled ('95ish). Measured the bottom of the threads on the threaded elbow and chose a drill size slightly smaller than that measurement. Drilled the upper-most part of the oil res on my Pro. Ran the threaded elbow through the drilled hole which "threaded" it. Backed it back out again and put some teflon pipe tape on the threaded elbow and screwed it back in. Pointed the end toward the center of the sled and attached the vent hose and terminated the hose in the right-hand frame tube. Clear as mud with my gramatical illustration for sure. I'll try to post some pictures.
I didn't have any trouble with plastic getting into the oil res. I went slow and still only took about 10 min. Didn't have to remove the res either. Just the side panel and hood.
I didn't have any trouble with plastic getting into the oil res. I went slow and still only took about 10 min. Didn't have to remove the res either. Just the side panel and hood.
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If you heat up a metal punch you can melt a hole and not have any risk of shavings in your oil. Then do a barb and check valve (not my sled):
I went with the Paaso Cap on our sleds. Works great, can't lose the cap.
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Just heat up a needle and poke a couple little tiny holes in strategic locations inside the cap. Or you can get the smallest bit you can find and drill a couple of holes in those locations. I went from over 50:1 oil consumption to about 40:1 by just doing that. I did not turn up the oiler at all.
Yup, just do this. Works great, completely reversible, takes only seconds, works much better than stock, but cheap and simple. I don't know why anyone would put a hole in their tank when this cap is available for such a cheap price....
I drilled out my tank, back when that was the only option. I'd get the Paaso or BRP cap now, but if you want to drill, I greased up the drill bit and placed a bent up spoon below the hole to catch anything. I think the spoon caught maybe 1 chunk and the grease caught the rest.
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Oregonsledder
Well-known member
Yup, just do this. Works great, completely reversible, takes only seconds, works much better than stock, but cheap and simple. I don't know why anyone would put a hole in their tank when this cap is available for such a cheap price....
You are trading one vented cap for another no one has proven in the real world that the BRP cap is any better. I like the idea of a redundant tank vent, then the cap can work or not. Drilling and installing a tank vent takes about 30 minutes when you remove the tank and drain it. No biggie. Manufactures have been venting oil tanks for years.
First 200 miles my 15 RMK had stock cap and pump turned up appx. 2 3/8 turns. When I took the cap off I heard a whoosh every time. I calculated 80:1. Next 200 miles I had BRP cap and pump turned up appx. 3 3/4 turns, no whoosh, calculated 35:1. If that's not real world enough for you I don't know what is. Cap was only $12.99 at my local dealer, not sure why anyone would bother with the stock cap any longer for that price.
And a vented line from the tank that you installed is no different than a vented cap. How many redundant systems do you need before you concede to the fact that the principle of operation of the BRP cap is a foolproof vent (duckbill) and that the Polaris stock cap is a temperamental design that, in some instances, can lead to a vacuum in the tank? Who's to say that your vent line (which is nothing more than an inline check valve, correct?) can't fail? Then what?
Simplicity in design yields the most reliable system....hence my purchase of the BRP cap. I think we all know you don't support it.
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Oregonsledder
Well-known member
I have never been against the BRP cap, I just am not convinced that first of all there is a stock cap problem, second, that the BRP cap is any better. I added a tank vent so I could see for myself if there is an issue with the stock cap. I'm open to the idea there could be a problem. I just ended 2 days of riding with my tank vented and the stock cap. I have not seen any increase in oil consumption outside of the normal range from day to day. I need more rides before I come to a conclusion.
If the stock cap really was a problem I'm convinced it would have become immediately known in 2011 when the PRO came out with the slanted oil tank neck.
I have a SkiDoo in my shop right now that had a new engine installed by another shop. The owner rode it about 100 yards and it seized. He brought to me and I found that the oil line to the PTO side was not connected. Oil starvation will cause immediate problems.
Jury still out in my opinion.
I'm also not convinced the Doo cap is necessarly an improvement. I've got an old Doo ZX Oil tank in my shop right now. The cap it uses appears to have a vent of some sort but I'm not really sure how it works. The tank is also vented by means of a hose. All my old Polaris is used to hose vent the tanks. I think I might add a hose with the 90° fitting just like they used to do. I'm not going to use a check valve and just a link the hose that wraps up vents out by the handlebars. No moving parts and full proof.
Oregon:
Not being a wise-acre here, but could you post your future findings if you see that you use more oil with your vent, I think that would be helpful for all. I noticed on the Maine guys youtube video that the engine compartment was dirty - at least compared to what I want my to look like. Based on your post of having a vent and not seeing a higher use in oil, and seeing a dirty engine compartment in that vid (that may have contributed to a clogged cap vent), I'm not convinced there is a OEM cap issue.
Not being a wise-acre here, but could you post your future findings if you see that you use more oil with your vent, I think that would be helpful for all. I noticed on the Maine guys youtube video that the engine compartment was dirty - at least compared to what I want my to look like. Based on your post of having a vent and not seeing a higher use in oil, and seeing a dirty engine compartment in that vid (that may have contributed to a clogged cap vent), I'm not convinced there is a OEM cap issue.
