my house is 2 stories.. bottom is 2 2 plus car garages and the living area is up top.. there is a concrete block wall between the 2 garages.. id like to put a doorway in to connect the 2.. do i need to put in a header (is that what its called?) over the doorway?
how to cut a doorway in a concrete block wall???
- Thread starter oonighttrain
- Start date
M
MN_Nole
ACCOUNT CLOSED
Jesse
My money would be yes you need to put a header in as the garage walls(lower) are supporting the upper load(house). Just my mathematics. Your best bet to get a true acurate answer are to picture the wall you want a doorway in, and the laod above.
Knowing your house and structures like it, yes you need to put a concrete header in.
but thats my $0.02
My money would be yes you need to put a header in as the garage walls(lower) are supporting the upper load(house). Just my mathematics. Your best bet to get a true acurate answer are to picture the wall you want a doorway in, and the laod above.
Knowing your house and structures like it, yes you need to put a concrete header in.
but thats my $0.02
If it's a supporting wall then yes you do need a header.
Rent a gas powered concrete saw, well worth it.
Make sure you use ear muffs, safety goggles and a really good respirator. Face shield wouldn't hurt either.
Little tip, set up a window fan to blow the dust out of the garage while you cut. You can breath easier, and see your cut line better.
Rent a gas powered concrete saw, well worth it.
Make sure you use ear muffs, safety goggles and a really good respirator. Face shield wouldn't hurt either.
Little tip, set up a window fan to blow the dust out of the garage while you cut. You can breath easier, and see your cut line better.
M
modsledr
Well-known member
If the concrete block wall is load bearing (and it probably is if it runs down the middle) you will definitely need a header when you install the doorway.
You may want to consult an engineer to properly size it (probably cost a couple hundred dollars)...you might also be able to get a general answer online, but every region has its own code requirements for earthquake, snow load, etc...
If you ever go to sell the house, it could prevent a sale if you dont have the proper documentation.
You may want to consult an engineer to properly size it (probably cost a couple hundred dollars)...you might also be able to get a general answer online, but every region has its own code requirements for earthquake, snow load, etc...
If you ever go to sell the house, it could prevent a sale if you dont have the proper documentation.
G
Good to Go
Banned
Got clue...?
A little opening we did awhile back...
Don't need a concrete header... If it's load bearing CMU...is it filled (w/concrete) currently ?? You can slip in an angle in the last joint, which will run past the new opening, bolt it up. Or you could sandwich the CMU between plate steel... Both will transfer the load. Got to know what it's carrying first, though.
DON'T dry cut (respirator and all...yuck). You can rent a saw and all, but the min for a wall saw sub is really not that bad. Bet you can get that opening cut for a couple of hundred. Save's you having to go to the rental store...hold the damn saw in the air...get wet and or worse, breath that crap AND breath the gas fumes which will be two stroke (Not that I don't love two stroke, but....) ...and worry if you're doing it right.
A little opening we did awhile back...
Don't need a concrete header... If it's load bearing CMU...is it filled (w/concrete) currently ?? You can slip in an angle in the last joint, which will run past the new opening, bolt it up. Or you could sandwich the CMU between plate steel... Both will transfer the load. Got to know what it's carrying first, though.
DON'T dry cut (respirator and all...yuck). You can rent a saw and all, but the min for a wall saw sub is really not that bad. Bet you can get that opening cut for a couple of hundred. Save's you having to go to the rental store...hold the damn saw in the air...get wet and or worse, breath that crap AND breath the gas fumes which will be two stroke (Not that I don't love two stroke, but....) ...and worry if you're doing it right.
I agree, you want a wet saw or better yet a sub contractor. the subs will have track saws and produce better cuts in less time, with less mess.
the only way to know how your header is going to be constructed is by the load, span and local codes.....but it is really a simple procedure.
the only way to know how your header is going to be constructed is by the load, span and local codes.....but it is really a simple procedure.
S
Snow Fox
Guest
Dynamite, and yes I am being serious.
A word of advice if you do use a wet saw to cut the hole... COVER EVERYTHING with a tarp or something. I had a door cut out of my garage last year, and I'm still cleaning and cleaning and cleaning and cleaning because I didn't cover things too well. TRUST ME!! BTW, I had a contractor friend do it who does concrete cutting for a living. Turned out great, except for the mess.
Do it OCC style. Drive that Camaro through it.......
S
SLEDIOT
Well-known member
Just did this couple weeks ago. Concrete saw and water. Add some jack hammering for awhile with a hint of sledge hammering. Pumps up the delts, tris, pecs and whatever else. 2.5 hrs labor for me on a 8" thick wall that was poured in 1962. Hint: concrete cures for 99 yrs they say..............
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