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How is the C3 system for the 13 holding up ?

500 miles or so

Have all turbo miles on a C3, am very happy with it. I have tried to strip the belt and in no way babied this thing. So far so good. I would definetely recommend it to others. I set the deflection first ride and got it set and havn't touched the tensioner since.
 
Have all turbo miles on a C3, am very happy with it. I have tried to strip the belt and in no way babied this thing. So far so good. I would definetely recommend it to others. I set the deflection first ride and got it set and havn't touched the tensioner since.
Hey Paw can you tell me what kind of labor and tool equiptment a guy would expect for the instal? Thanks in advance
 
pretty easy

Hey Paw can you tell me what kind of labor and tool equiptment a guy would expect for the instal? Thanks in advance
If you have electric start it is a little more in depth. It will not fit with a stock battery, I have an Alien Motion ultra small lightweight so the tensioner goes just over the top of it. The tensioner forward mounting bolt goes in a stud bolt hole for the exhaust/battery bracket. So you need to drill out this stud, and either roll the tab on the bracket down or cut it off. I rolled mine so that if I remove I can roll it back up and put in new bolt. This hole is open if you don't have e-start. Other than that its a cinch. Without e-start its about a 20 minute project with basic tools. A few metric wrenches, some red and blue loc-tite and a torque wrench that'll do 20-30ft/lbs is all you need. Pretty straight forward. It is not hard at all. It took me longer to remove my battery than it did to put the C3 drive on.
 
Thanks Paw! Good insight to start with. Im going to do the belt drive for the 3 sleds i have between my wife and i, just really trying to get all the info i can to make a quality and $ decision. Im aiming pretty hard at the C3 so far. They seem to want to throw as much info out there as you ask for. Right now i got in on the tread in the deep pow section and was basically doing the same thing and trying to get informed. Mark the cmx guy has skipped skirted, and dodged most of the questions asked by me. May have touched a nerve or maybe uncovered the mystery of the taboo questions on the cmx system, lol. Anyway for what ever reason, im a ghost to him. Very unprofessional if you ask me. Im going to give it a couple more days for him to respond before i completely give up on it and call the C3 guys. Want to get the wife involved, and the C3 seems like a great project for her...not that she is a tard, just not a total gear head. Thanks again.
 
not that I have noticed

I have not noticed any difference in the clutching, I chose the C3 closest to stock gearing because the stock gearing was fine for me with a turbo. I would have to say that I thought I felt it was a tad snappier than a stock 13', this could be all in my head because it was new and cool and I wanted it to be, haha. But I could say it might just be because of a stronger, tighter belt, therefore a little less give than the stock drive belt. Either way, in my head or not, I like it.
As for the CMXDS, this too is a great system, after all they designed the concept and have perfected it over the years. Mark is a great guy that builds a great product. I really leaned towards the CMXDS for a while, but in the end I wasn't prepared to do all that is required to install this system. I did the C3 in the garage in 30 minutes or so with no special tools or skill. I know that I can add the Fastrax driveshaft and 7 tooth drivers and anti-stab kit to switch tracks for about $600 or so less than the CMXDS kit, and I don't need the drop and roll kit to clear a 3" track that way, and more than likely I will go with a CE 2.5". And as for the brake being down on the driveshaft, this is a huge improvement for safety above the stock set up, but with the C3 I really don't think I can strip the belt with the way it is designed. Even if it does strip completely there is still a tensioner that is applying pressure to the belt which I feel would still give some braking ability. The other piece of mind, is the fact that in what research I've done, I have only been able to find one C3 belt that has failed, and it was on a turbo ski doo. One other thing I thought of, is the times when you have the brakes locked on a steep downhill and engine is at idle, what kind of stress are you putting on the belt when you ride the throttle to build RPM with the brakes locked so you can get the engine to backshift when you release the brake?? Could be wrong on that thinking, but who knows???
Both are awesome kits, each has a different fit for different consumers. The C3 is not a step down from the CMXDS in my opinion. It is just what they advertise, a bolt on replacement drive belt system with a tensioner, the CMXDS is a full on mod kit with a few more bells and whistles, you can't go wrong with either. And as stated in an earlier post, I would definetely recommend the C3 drive to anyone. I am verry happy with it.
 
I have not noticed any difference in the clutching, I chose the C3 closest to stock gearing because the stock gearing was fine for me with a turbo. I would have to say that I thought I felt it was a tad snappier than a stock 13', this could be all in my head because it was new and cool and I wanted it to be, haha. But I could say it might just be because of a stronger, tighter belt, therefore a little less give than the stock drive belt. Either way, in my head or not, I like it.
As for the CMXDS, this too is a great system, after all they designed the concept and have perfected it over the years. Mark is a great guy that builds a great product. I really leaned towards the CMXDS for a while, but in the end I wasn't prepared to do all that is required to install this system. I did the C3 in the garage in 30 minutes or so with no special tools or skill. I know that I can add the Fastrax driveshaft and 7 tooth drivers and anti-stab kit to switch tracks for about $600 or so less than the CMXDS kit, and I don't need the drop and roll kit to clear a 3" track that way, and more than likely I will go with a CE 2.5". And as for the brake being down on the driveshaft, this is a huge improvement for safety above the stock set up, but with the C3 I really don't think I can strip the belt with the way it is designed. Even if it does strip completely there is still a tensioner that is applying pressure to the belt which I feel would still give some braking ability. The other piece of mind, is the fact that in what research I've done, I have only been able to find one C3 belt that has failed, and it was on a turbo ski doo. One other thing I thought of, is the times when you have the brakes locked on a steep downhill and engine is at idle, what kind of stress are you putting on the belt when you ride the throttle to build RPM with the brakes locked so you can get the engine to backshift when you release the brake?? Could be wrong on that thinking, but who knows???
Both are awesome kits, each has a different fit for different consumers. The C3 is not a step down from the CMXDS in my opinion. It is just what they advertise, a bolt on replacement drive belt system with a tensioner, the CMXDS is a full on mod kit with a few more bells and whistles, you can't go wrong with either. And as stated in an earlier post, I would definetely recommend the C3 drive to anyone. I am verry happy with it.
Thanks Paw! Couldnt agree more. With just the amount of info you have related here alot of people i think can make the decision on what suits them for their pocket and application. I too am going with the C3 system for the 3 sleds getting a make over this summer. Tried my best to get answers on the Deep Powder thread on the cmx system to no avail, and im over my quota for a non paying member so i cant read anything else posted. Oh well, doesnt matter i got all the information (or not) needed to make my decision. To be completely fair it sounds like another thing to think about on the cmx system is the more involved labor to install as well as i believe it to be alot heavier than the C3. I would really like to hear from someone on if the cmx kit actually adds weight, but i guess for me it makes no difference as i will not be using it.
 
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There we go. Nothing is unbreakable.

From my perspective the QD, C3, and CMX are three different levels of the belt drive. Everyone has to balance their budget for there own reasons and stop at the level they can afford but they ARE three different levels of the belt drive. To say anything different is just being blind for your own reasons.

My stock QD is at 1400 miles and still seems good. At 800 ish I took it apart, looked at it VERY carefully. Fixed a few issues in design and assy tolerances and it's still ticking.
From my observations I see the need for a stronger more heat resistant belt. That's coming from Poo and comes with either the C3 or CMX today ( I think).
So far I have not needed a tensioner but the miles are still coming this year.

If I was to change one thing on the QD from my observations, it would be the QD plate. When I was pushing and flexing and measuring, I felt the plate was forcing the shafts (especially the jackshaft) to do too much structural work.
That's where I will focus my attention this summer unless I win a lottery lol.
 
After blowing 3 stock belts in 750 miles. I then installed a c3 drive and now have just under 800 miles on it with 0 problems, never even had to readjust the belt after initial set up. stock with 13.6 head and pipe
 
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