when the primary is at full shift and the belt is riding at the top of the sheaves how close should the belt come to the top???? thanks
how high should the belt run on the primary at full shift??
- Thread starter sledhead_583
- Start date
I just put a new main bushing in, not sure what to call it, what the main part of the cluch slides on as it compresses the belt,anyways its a bit to long so when its at full shift its hitting the other sheave to soon, the belt cant get past between 3/16 and 4/16 (7/32 to be exact) of the top of the clutch. im hoping this wont hurt my deep snow boondocking and climbing as i wont be able to get high track speeds anyways in the deep, am i right in thinking that way?? i have no time to fix it now as im leaving tomorrow.
should be fine for what your doing. It is designed to run at the top. Run the belt as tight as you can without hurting it.
D
dmkhnr
Well-known member
Is there a way to adjust how high the belt runs in the primary?
My normal clutch is being rebuilt right now, and I have a backup clutch which seemed similiar, however my belt is riding 3/4" below the top of the sheeve and my track speed is down.
This isn't hurting anything, and I'll get my secondary back next week I'm just wondering why it runs lower.
My normal clutch is being rebuilt right now, and I have a backup clutch which seemed similiar, however my belt is riding 3/4" below the top of the sheeve and my track speed is down.
This isn't hurting anything, and I'll get my secondary back next week I'm just wondering why it runs lower.
N
newtrout
Well-known member
You sure about that? When your belt is running at the top of the primary, you're basically running in your tallest gear. That would mean that your running 80+ mph track speed mid-climb. Must be running a turbo, eh?
You need to factor in belt slipage. When you are on the trail going 80 mph there is minimal belt slipage. When you are in the powder with 45 mph track speed I think you are close to full shift out, but you have a lot of belt slipage.
I think the key is to balance the clutches out heat wise to reduce the belt slipage, and the result of doing this will get you closer to a full shift out.
I think the key is to balance the clutches out heat wise to reduce the belt slipage, and the result of doing this will get you closer to a full shift out.
3/4 up the primary in a climb
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dmkhnr
Well-known member
I'm 90% sure it runs up at the top. When I clean the clutch face, there is always a black rubber mark up near the top. I run WOT in climbs for over 1 minute, and know what kind of track speed I generate.
With the backup clutch, the black mark is quite a bit lower on the sheaves, I'm running the same RPM, but my trackspeed in a climb is down. It isn't shifting out the same for some reason. I sharpied the sheives to see where the belt ran and it is 3/4" from the top leaving the fresh sharpie mark.
I'm not going to worry about it, as my good clutch should be back to me the first of next week, I'll check belt height then.
With the backup clutch, the black mark is quite a bit lower on the sheaves, I'm running the same RPM, but my trackspeed in a climb is down. It isn't shifting out the same for some reason. I sharpied the sheives to see where the belt ran and it is 3/4" from the top leaving the fresh sharpie mark.
I'm not going to worry about it, as my good clutch should be back to me the first of next week, I'll check belt height then.
dmkhnr,
Are you only swapping the primary clutch and leaving the secondary alone? When you swap the primary do they have the same weights and spring in them? Same clutch setup?
It would be good to figure out why one doesn't shift out and the other does. I am trying to figure out all the factors related to full clutch shift out and which factors make the biggest difference.
The obvious answer is that you are loading the clutches too much and back off on the secondary setup, but I think there are factors within the primary which affect full shift out just as much as the secondary.
Are you only swapping the primary clutch and leaving the secondary alone? When you swap the primary do they have the same weights and spring in them? Same clutch setup?
It would be good to figure out why one doesn't shift out and the other does. I am trying to figure out all the factors related to full clutch shift out and which factors make the biggest difference.
The obvious answer is that you are loading the clutches too much and back off on the secondary setup, but I think there are factors within the primary which affect full shift out just as much as the secondary.
M
mtn mike on boost
Well-known member
if you want to know for sure, take a sharpie up w/ you next time.
before you do a good sized pull, make a nice fat mark on the inner sheave from the center to the top.after your back down, check and see how much has rubbed off.
before you do a good sized pull, make a nice fat mark on the inner sheave from the center to the top.after your back down, check and see how much has rubbed off.
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dmkhnr
Well-known member
This is exactly what I did with the backup clutch.
I swapped my spring and weights over.
The backup primary isn't identical, as it is one that used that balance ring bolted to the back of it, whereas my stock clutch doesn't have this and the sheave is thicker at this spot. I thought it might be a bearcat primary as it had a cat red spring in it, but found out that a bearcat uses a 30mm bore, however the shaft is tapered so a 30mm might bolt on but it would still be sticking out too far.
It's very possible that it is an m7 clutch.
I'm gong to measure the throw, as the red spring that I took out was alot shorter than the orange/white that I put in, this might be restricting the shift.
The M7 clutch is suppose to hav the ballance ring but I am pretty sure the weight of the clutch won't affect shift out, only the ballance of your crank. I have been running my clutch for 3 years without the ballance ring becuase the person I bought the sled from put a replacement clutch on and never swapped the ring over. Hoping I don't wreck my crank over time.
What sled are you running? Care to share your clutch setup, elevation, engine mods and track speed? Trying to figure out what my M7 is capbable of.
What sled are you running? Care to share your clutch setup, elevation, engine mods and track speed? Trying to figure out what my M7 is capbable of.
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dmkhnr
Well-known member
08 m8 with 162 powerclaw track and lightweight mods.
RKT porting/head/torsion secondary, with snopro green in second hole. Cutler adjustables with 72#, cat orange white. 8200 rpm at 7-10k elev, deep powder climb is mid 40mph track speed.
I'm only seeing 38-41mph with this backup clutch.
