How do you adjust belt deflection with the AMP adjuster tool....?

[Dogmeat]

Ok I just bought this and installed it and I thought this was supposed to be easier to adjust belt deflection with this ... meaning, you don't have to use shims ...?

My belt deflection is pretty loose and I want to tighten it up, but I have the tool tightened almost all the way up and it's still loose as hell.

What am I doing wrong here?

 

[White Rad]

I have the BDX one but I think they work the same way. The adjuster has male threads that screw into the center of the secondary, and if i remeber they are reverse threaded. So when you turn it counterclockwise it spreads the sheaves and reduces deflection. so to tighten it turn it clockwise (make sure allen bolt in center of adjuster is loose). The thing most people have trouble with is the sheaves will actually pinch the belt so it feels like the adjuster is tightened all the way but its not. You have to work the belt around the sheave to get it to the top or make your adjustment and spin the track so the belt will work its way up higher in the sheaves. I shoot for 1/16in above the sheave and then w/ sled on a track stand tighten it until the track just starts to creep. hope this makes sense....

 

[columbus]

With the AMp adjuster, turn it clockwise until you feel no tension on the threads. Then work the belt up in the secondary until there is about 1/8" of belt above the top of the shiv. Then turn the adjuster counterclockwise until you feel resistance, then turn it maybe 1/8 turn. Tighten the clutch bolt and you are done. Make sure to check your clutch bolt after riding a bit, mine worked loose on me once after an adjustment. Also, with the AMP deflection adjuster, you have to carry a 5/16 allen wrench if you want to be able to change your belt in the field.

 

[skimike]

the more you tighten it or with stock set up the more shims the higher it rides in the sheave. I dont quite understand your instructions that say 1/16 th higher than the sheave and then tighten til it starts to crawl. making it more higher in the sheave. am I correct. I have mine now to where the outside cogs on the belt are full outside the sheave and it still doesnt crawl, if I go any higher I feel I will start to loose the operating surface of the belt. btw I have a stock set up 2010 m8

 

[Dogmeat]

With the AMp adjuster, turn it clockwise until you feel no tension on the threads. Then work the belt up in the secondary until there is about 1/8" of belt above the top of the shiv. Then turn the adjuster counterclockwise until you feel resistance, then turn it maybe 1/8 turn. Tighten the clutch bolt and you are done. Make sure to check your clutch bolt after riding a bit, mine worked loose on me once after an adjustment. Also, with the AMP deflection adjuster, you have to carry a 5/16 allen wrench if you want to be able to change your belt in the field.

I see .. it's probably best to set the deflection with the sled on thet rail then so you can spin the track? I've been trying to do it in the trailer and I can't get it to work right ....

 

[chip13]

anyone have pics of this?

 

[White Rad]

I see .. it's probably best to set the deflection with the sled on thet rail then so you can spin the track? I've been trying to do it in the trailer and I can't get it to work right ....

i do mine with the track in the air. set my belt flush w/ the top of the sheaves, start the sled w/ it on a track stand and give it a little throttle to spin the track and let the belt get settled. Then I turn the adjuster clockwise to tightne, spin the track and then hit the brakes. let off brakes and if it starts to creep the track done. if not, tighten another small turn and repeat. when i'm done belt is usually 1/16in above sheaves.

just have a buddy lift your track off the ground while doing the adjustment