How do I get my M1000 to stop trenching?

[HiWaYman92]

I have a powerclaw, limiter straps all the way out, stock motor. I need suggestions on a suspension setup that will keep me from trenching so bad. Will it help to tighten my limiter straps up a notch?

 

[AaronBND]

Make the back shock stiff and the front shock loose. Make sure you are in the top hole in the back and the front hole is personal preference. One thing I really had to learn to stop doing was hammering it when I got stuck coming up out of the hole. The 1000's have so much power you will just stay stuck it seems like.

Aaron

 

[WyoBoy1000]

3/8" preload on front skid shock and 150 psi in rear shock. after that tightening limiters can help. To get the full potential out of the PC you need the 09 rear tunnel design, they work hand in hand.

 

[HiWaYman92]

3/8" preload on front skid shock and 150 psi in rear shock. after that tightening limiters can help. To get the full potential out of the PC you need the 09 rear tunnel design, they work hand in hand.

3/8'' meaning the spanner nut 3/8 of an inch from being backed all the way off? I don't have an air pump, but I will have to check/adjust my rear air pressure... will 150 pounds be right for a guy that is 250 with gear on?

 

[WyoBoy1000]

3/8'' meaning the spanner nut 3/8 of an inch from being backed all the way off? I don't have an air pump, but I will have to check/adjust my rear air pressure... will 150 pounds be right for a guy that is 250 with gear on?

pick up the rear of the sled loosen the spring tell there is no load on it then pre load it to 3/8" or close, You need a pump as the pressure changes with temp and altitude. To set the rear, I go ride it a bit until it has all the snow build up on it and the pick up on the rear bumper if it comes up more than 2" I add air. Last time out I had 2 gallons of gas and about 10lbs of stuff under seat and I weigh 205 dry. put in 155psi. I would start with 155-160psi and go from there, and don't try and let air out of the rear shock without a pump when riding, it comes out very quick, and without a pump your screwed.

This will get you as close as I've found but you may find a little better setting for you.

 

[RockyMtn.Kris]

Good post

 

[HiWaYman92]

ttt

 

[Frostbite]

Snowtech had a blurb on that very subject.

They said to lower the bolts for the front of your rear skid to the lower holes. You will have to drill out the holes and you can only see the other holes from inside the tunnel. It is really suposed to help the pre 09 M1000s get up on the snow much better.

They had several other tips addressing this issue as well. I'll see if I can find it again.

 

[HiWaYman92]

Also, I am getting 40 mph of track speed in deep powder climbing at 72-7400 rpm. With a 162 does this seem right? It just doesn't seem to get on top of the snow like it did last year.

 

[Evolution Powersports]

I get about 40 mph track speed in bottomless powder at about 9500' elevation in my 09 M1000 162. My brothers 08 gets the same.

 

[HiWaYman92]

Has anyone had any luck with the CPC or RK Tek torsional secondary kits? What problems do they fix? I seem to keep RPM's fine while climbing, just am having big problems getting on top of the snow. Often I am matched or beat by 700 155' dragons. EMBERASSING!

 

[hard@it]

what holes are you talking about when you say top hole in the back and front hole is a personal preference.

 

[AaronBND]

what holes are you talking about when you say top hole in the back and front hole is a personal preference.

The holes that mount the skid in the tunnel. You normally want the back holes in the upper hole of the drop-down bracket and the front is personal preference. Since drilling the lower holes out and moving mine down in the front, I haven't noticed a difference in trenching, it just makes the front end feel way lighter and more flickable. Raises the fun factor of the sled.

Aaron

P.S. Look up under your tunnel inside where your front arms mount and you will see they are through the middle hole of a 3-holed backing plate. Just drill out the lower ones and remount.

 

[hard@it]

I did do the front one last year after reading that article and also noticed a difference in the ski weight for the better.And I will check the back mounting and adjust as well.Thanks

 

[rigrat]

Good day. I installed the powerclaw on my 08 M1000 last year and got pissed when my brothers stock 08 M1000 was easily highmarking me by more than a little bit. I replaced my belt with a new 046 and went to 83 grams for weight and raised rear shock air pressure to 150 psi, it was like riding a completely different machine. A worn out belt will hurt overall performance more than a person realizes. Just another thing to check. Have a good one.

 

[ECott]

Good day. I installed the powerclaw on my 08 M1000 last year and got pissed when my brothers stock 08 M1000 was easily highmarking me by more than a little bit. I replaced my belt with a new 046 and went to 83 grams for weight and raised rear shock air pressure to 150 psi, it was like riding a completely different machine. A worn out belt will hurt overall performance more than a person realizes. Just another thing to check. Have a good one.

x2 on that! i was running the original belt (900 miles) until last weekend... swaped it for a new 060 and shes running like a raped ape! big difference 07 M1000 btw

 

[ECott]

Snowtech had a blurb on that very subject.

They said to lower the bolts for the front of your rear skid to the lower holes. You will have to drill out the holes and you can only see the other holes from inside the tunnel. It is really suposed to help the pre 09 M1000s get up on the snow much better.

They had several other tips addressing this issue as well. I'll see if I can find it again.

Will this work for the 07 M1000?

 

[WyoBoy1000]

yes

 

[HiWaYman92]

Belt was on its first ride since break in. I completely agree though, a worn belt makes these 1000's seem like an m5... but its hard to tell just what exactly is going wrong until you check it.

Today I tightened my limiter straps to the center hole, and reset by preload to 3/8-1/2''. Jumped my driveway a few times, and it is definately softer. I probably had 3/4 to 1'' of preload on the front shock before. I am going to check my rear shock air once I get it to town to the Cat shop. I have a feeling that my stock skis may be better than my C&A XT's with the increased ski pressure. What do you all think about the straps in the middle?

 

[WyoBoy1000]

I would try it then let them out and see what you think, with them out the skid will work the terrain better and come in contact with the snow more often, should work better for trenching but if you pull a wheelie it will pick up more of the track off the snow, try it both ways and let us know. It can also cause to much pressure on the rear of the skid making it want to wash out when hillsiding. If you set the rear skid pressure in a warm shop add at least 10lbs more pressure than your looking to get, as it will drop with temp change.