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How did YOU break in your sled?

C

Clarke673

Somewhere between too dumb to quit and flat earth
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I was just wondering how everyone broke in their new pro. I took it halfway easy for the first 20 miles...then after that i rode it like a rental sled. I added a tough of oil to the fuel every time i filled up until i hit about 250 miles. I am pulling 8300-8400 rpms, and i am still getting used to the sled. My only mods on my assault were to add some track screws to the center lugs, get rid of the factory snow flap, and tonight i am adding some tunnel protectors. My only mods that i plan to do are HPS can, ftx clutching, 7 tooth drivers, and revalved rear shock.

As far as set up i have the front track shock tightened up about 10-11 threads. The rear track shock i have set too about 14 threads from maxed out with the clicker turned up all the way. Front track shocks are 5 threads from maxed out and clicker in the middle position. I am about 220 pounds and i ride very hard. If I’m not jumping, I’m climbing in the trees or hauling *** trying to find a drift to play on. Hope this info helps someone?

I was just wondering how everyone broke in their 800. Seams like alot of people baby them for a long time, but i was always tought that you break em in the way you ride them?

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i always broke them in like i was going to ride them too. i do the break in stuff they recommend as far as oil and stuff but i get on and go like hell.
 
I think you broke it in right. I was always told to break them in how you're gonna ride them too... I did the same except I only did 1 premix tank. seems to run HARD :face-icon-small-hap
 
Got 120 miles on mine now.

I heat cycled it 3 times at the house,rode it easy trail riding first day checking fluid levels,belt,track etc.Second day when it was over the 3 hour run time I got on it more aggressively.Seems broke in now:face-icon-small-hap.
 
I am a firm believer in break em in the way you ride.....mine got heat cycled once, then rode hard (constantly moving the throttle for the first hour),no oil in the fuel either...we had a 20 mile fast, rough trail ride to the hills..followed by on the bars all day climbing with a new etec...couldnt keep the doo boys off it the first ride...mine rips...
 
I started it let it run. Shut it off for a quick heat soak wide open for the next 300 miles.

Iq I accidentally negitive rep u sorry stupid phone and fat fingers
 
Got 120 miles on mine now.

I heat cycled it 3 times at the house,rode it easy trail riding first day checking fluid levels,belt,track etc.Second day when it was over the 3 hour run time I got on it more aggressively.Seems broke in now:face-icon-small-hap.

X2!!!
 
sorry if this sounds ignorant but is heat cycling it just letting it idle for a bit then just shutting it off? I assume this is to help with seating the rings?
 
sorry if this sounds ignorant but is heat cycling it just letting it idle for a bit then just shutting it off? I assume this is to help with seating the rings?

bringing it up to 160+..then shut off , let cool completely...not only seat the rings, but the cases,cylinders even crank...heat allows them to swell and shrink and fit better..
 
bringing it up to 160+..then shut off , let cool completely...not only seat the rings, but the cases,cylinders even crank...heat allows them to swell and shrink and fit better..

do the pros tell you the temp on them? thats pretty cool if so. With an XP you have to get premium gauge package for that
 
Drove the bag off of it. Everything is well broken-in, rings are seated and the belt is too. No use driving it like I'm an old 90 year old man. This sled was meant to be driven hard. :face-icon-small-hap:face-icon-small-hap
 
In the days of steel bore cylinders it was much more critical to break in slower to get the rings to seat properly. Now days with Nikasil cylinders tigher cylinder to ring and pistion tolerances slow break in is more or less totally unnecessary as the rings seat really quick. That means break the sled in just like your going to ride it.
 
1. added approx 1 litre of Polaris blue oil for the first tank.
2. Let the sled warm up more than normal
3. Varied throttle all over the place on first tank
4. got rid of ethanol plug and installed the non ethanol plug.
5. adding about 500ml of VES gold to every tank after initial brake in, for piece of mind.
6. took out 10-62 clutch weights and put in 10-70's(been riding at low elevation)
7. riding with the throttle stuck to the bar ever since....wow!!!
 
do the pros tell you the temp on them? thats pretty cool if so. With an XP you have to get premium gauge package for that

yes..you just cylce thru the guage select menu buttons to find it..normally ride with mine showing....
 
1. added approx 1 litre of Polaris blue oil for the first tank.
2. Let the sled warm up more than normal
3. Varied throttle all over the place on first tank
4. got rid of ethanol plug and installed the non ethanol plug.
5. adding about 500ml of VES gold to every tank after initial brake in, for piece of mind.
6. took out 10-62 clutch weights and put in 10-70's(been riding at low elevation)
7. riding with the throttle stuck to the bar ever since....wow!!!

why did you go with the 10-70s over 10-68s? Im going to be riding at under 1K elevation and was told to run 10-68s
 
do the pros tell you the temp on them? thats pretty cool if so. With an XP you have to get premium gauge package for that


Realy? That sucks! i think it has been standard since like 05 on polaris products.
 
Let it warm up to close to normal operating temps. Varied the throttle with WOT for a couple seconds. Then rolled it 3 to four times (couldnt remember how many times i saw the mountain bar cycle in my vision) lost a windshield dart. Now i let it warm up and vary the throttle up the trail until i get up to operating temps. I wanna thank carls cycle for giving me a sled that just flat out rips.....................and sidehills........................and climbs!
 
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why did you go with the 10-70s over 10-68s? Im going to be riding at under 1K elevation and was told to run 10-68s
I was still hitting 8500 rpm with my 10-66's so I'm gonna try the 10-70's. I have tried the 10-62's, 64's, and going from 10-62's to 10-66's barely made a difference in dropping the RPM. This machine will have no problem turning these weights at my elevation.

I have had a few different dealers tell me which weights work the best and I have got 3 different answers.lol

My home elevation is 2000ft.
 
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