Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Hot Grip Issue !

Snow Fever

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Hey guys, I have a 650 Maytrix Pro 155 2.75 Track (Sled and Motor is an Over Achiever) and this little motor punches above its weight class. That being said, the handle bar warmers will melt your gloves on high and the thumb is just right on High. If you turn the switch to Low, the handle bars are good and the Thumb warmer SUCKS. Anyone come up with a way to seperate the Thumb and Handle bars so you could run the thumb on High and the Bars on low? Thats stupid having then both on one switch. I here Skidoo does that too.
 
Was just wondering about this sled today.. In the market for a back up / sled for the wife (mostly for me to play around on) haha. Thought this might be the one for the job.
If it had SHOT start, would have snow checked one, no questions asked.. Might have to hop on it in march for next year, none available around these parts
Sorry, zero idea on the warmer issue you are having.
 
Totally agree that the heat control of the grips should separate of the thumb warmers.

Really shouldn't be that hard to build it that way to begin with. And seriously only two setting.........are they using technology from the 60's?
 
So there are 2 heating grids for the bar warmers and 2 for the thumb warmer. If you reverse the positive wires for the thumb warmer only, you will get high on Low and low on High, for it only. Not ideal but without a more complicated circuit it might work for you.
 
Was just wondering about this sled today.. In the market for a back up / sled for the wife (mostly for me to play around on) haha. Thought this might be the one for the job.
If it had SHOT start, would have snow checked one, no questions asked.. Might have to hop on it in march for next year, none available around these parts
Sorry, zero idea on the warmer issue you are having.
Unless you have arm or shoulder problems, the Polaris starts with a flick of the wrist so almost as easy as SHOT. Definatley quicker than SHOT and that is key if an AVY is coming at you and you have stopped where you shouldn't have.
 
So there are 2 heating grids for the bar warmers and 2 for the thumb warmer. If you reverse the positive wires for the thumb warmer only, you will get high on Low and low on High, for it only. Not ideal but without a more complicated circuit it might work for you.
Or, using that logic, combine the low and high +ve wires to the high grid so the high element works on low and high
 
Or, using that logic, combine the low and high +ve wires to the high grid so the high element works on low and high
Only it will feed back to power both the high and low grid on the bar heater, at the same time. You might be able to do this if you build a circuit with ample size diodes or use a relay.
 
Last edited:
Unless you have arm or shoulder problems, the Polaris starts with a flick of the wrist so almost as easy as SHOT. Definatley quicker than SHOT and that is key if an AVY is coming at you and you have stopped where you shouldn't have.
Or unless (as I mentioned) it's for the wife, and she lacks the upper body strength to give the high compression engine a tug over, and you want to make the riding experience as painless as possible for her (me) ;)
 
So just a quick reply to those guy/gals thinking about this sled, as far as pulling the cord to start it, it is one of the lightest pull start sleds I have ever seen. Very very easy to pull start and starts 1st pull. That being said, I do have elec start, removed the battery and ALL brackets for the battery and soliniod and made a very small Super Capicitor pack that weighs less then 1 Lb. By using the capacitor I dropped almost 14 Lbs off the elec start system. The capacitor is more then capable of starting this thing and works great! But if you don't want the weight of the starter motor, ring gear and wires, it pulls over like nothing on the rope.
 
As far as how this sled goes, I just spent 2 days at 4-7000' riding in 2 1/2 to 3' of powder boondocking with a bunch of 800's and I had NO TROUBLE going where they did. The sled was a little doggy the 1st 5 Hrs but after that it rips. It has wicked throttle response, BEST I have ever seen on a stock sled. Now if your going to climb big shoots or even big hills in deep snow, it is just a 650 and does not have the torque of an 800. But with all the efficiencies Polaris did to this thing like the 2.75 track and belt drive, great chassi, lighter sled then other brands and a square bore and stroke motor, it's crazy GOOD!!!!! Just so you know this is my 1st Polaris since 1994 XLT so this is NOT a Brand loyal opinion. Been riding Cats, Doos and Yamy's up till this sled.

To give you an idea of the ZIP this thing has, Me and a 800 18' Cat with a 153x3 (this sled is not stock, has some goodies, it used to be mine) and a 21' 800 Alpha 165x3 with a can, reeds and a belt drive lined up twice on the groomed trail back to the truck and my old Cat and my new 650 bumped skis to 75mph (thats when we shut down), and the Alpha was 2-3 sled lengths behind. Last couple days I have been doing some teaks to it and it is pulling harder now. Might just surprise some 8's out there...............
 
Last edited:
Now, How do I fix the hot grips?

Here's my complaints with the sled:

1 - Hot grips and thumb warmer on one switch (STUPID)
2 - Ice builds in the corner of the running board and side of the tunnel, thats not the issue and is to be expected as the cooler in the tunnel heats the sides and melts snow, the issue is they put the rivets that hold the running boards onto the tunnel in from the bottom so the heads stick way up by your feet and when the ice glues to the rivets, its a beotch to kick the ice off. I've done lots of after market boards and I put the rivets down to stop this.
3 - The raw handle bars near the grips form ice when playing in the deep. I'm going to put some tape around them in that area to stop this.
4 - Where the nose cone meets the bulkhead there was small gaps. I sealed it with silicon.
5 - Not crazy about the hooks on the bars (personal preferance)
6 - Side panels are harder to install then Cat and Doo, but there good.

The Good/Great stuff

1 - That Motor, Power, throttle response, I put on a bit more miles then the 8's as I was trying to get it through break in and I used less gas when we refueled.
2 - Chassis goes through the snow better then the Cat unless you put an Elevate Kit on the Cat. Which I did on mine.
3 - Track works great, pops out of the snow like they say. You don't need to run it tight at all now that Polaris put real drivers in it like Cat, Doo and Yamaha have had for years
4 - Seat is very comfortable and so narrow its snow bike like ( I had one of those as well )
5 - The hand grips are excellent grip
6 - The brake is trully only one finger needed
7 - The head light (After adjusting it) is frigg'n awsome.
8 - I've always run a handle bar bag and now with that front compartment I have tons of storage and it keeps my beverage from freezing and my phone warm ( I run my phone with the Polaris Ride Comand app all day and don't need it in my Jacket to stay warm)
8 - Running boards are a good size and great traction
 
Last edited:

4 threads down.
 
Yea I read that, I have the cheap welfare gauge not the 7s
The note on adding a 5 step controller with separate hand and thumb controls.

Wire the hi and low together for a max power capability.

Only use the controller from the kit.

 
Or unless (as I mentioned) it's for the wife, and she lacks the upper body strength to give the high compression engine a tug over, and you want to make the riding experience as painless as possible for her (me) ;)
I thought you said a 650? A girl should be able to start those. My wife can get my 850 started but not when it is cold.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top