Holz Sag Setting????

[Eli]

What is everyone running for sag on the Holz suspensions? Mine is in an Edge, and I don't think there is any setback. I am having a rearing/trenching problem. I have the front limiter pulled up, front shock laid down, and I even raised the front mounting point 3/4". Raising the mount helped drastically. Does anyone have static and rider sags setting they might share?

Thanks

 

[XC700116]

Try moving your rear scissor mount back about 3/4" to 1" on the rails. this will limit the transfer slightly.

Mine is set at about 3" sag per Holz reccomendations. also double check your front ride height I believe it should be at about 8.5 to 9 inches with sled sitting on a flat surface. push down on the front bumper and let it rebound before checking.

The front shock on the holz skid should have very little preload in the spring. check it by suspending the rear end of the sled (jackstand) with the track somewhat loose, set limiters so that there is about 5 1/2 to 6 inches of travel in the front arm then back the spring off completely then put 2 truns of preload in it from when the nut first captures the spring (touching on both ends). Also after your spring preloads are set wrap some electrical tape or duct tape around the shock threads (very tightly) to prevent the springs from backing off since the preload is so little.

This should help some but with that kind of HP the sled is gonna want to tail stand with the Holz skid as it was designed for very good weight transfer.

 

[Eli]

3" of rider sag or static sag (just the weight of sled)?

 

[XC700116]

Rider sag.

Also as stupid as it may sound you may want to consider letting your limiters back out and moving the front TA back to the stock position. Typically Edge's like lots of front arm travel to more evenly distribute the load on the track. This should give the effect of the sled lifting straight up out of the snow, lifting the skis yes but not wheelieing on the back of the track. With the limiters sucked in and the front TA moved up it puts a lot more pressure on the back of the track and causes the trenching. Moving the rear scissor back further distributes this load and changing the chassis' pivot point to help with the wheely/trenching.

How far from the top of the tunnel (inside ) is your rear torque arm mounted? it should be about 7".

 

[XC700116]

Also When you set the sag it is measured from an unloaded position (suspended with track barely touching the floor) then with rider on the sled. Measured at the running board in line with the rear mounting hole. Also you MUST have the correct coil spring for the rear shock for your weight. They have 3 different ones and the rating is engraved on one end of the spring. 150, 175, and 200. I weigh 250 and use the 200 spring with some stiff valving and I need very little preload on the spring to get the sag right. Be careful on the preload on that spring to avoid coilbind. It tends to destroy stuff.

 

[Eli]

I haven't measured sag yet, but have the preload turned up some. Front mount is 5" from the top, was 5 3/4", rear is effectively 7" when accounting for the tunnel kickup before the rear mount (acutally 9 1/4"). I am not sure what spring is in it. Does the spring have to be out to see the engraving?

I do understand about getting the front mount back lower with less transfer to the rear. It makes the flat surface push forward more than trench. Also, I do have front spring set to bsically nothing.

I am pretty sure the rear spring may be my culprit.

 

[XC700116]

The engraving is on the flat end of the spring where the collars contact it, so it needs to be out of the sled to check for the number. 9 1/4" might be a little much. Do you have the stock tunnel on your sled? If so and using drop brackets that will further amplify the pivot effect.

 

[Eli]

No, it's a Holz tunnel that kicks up before the mounting point on the rear. Marc Holz built this chassis at his shop, so the mounting points should be fine. The only thing is the rider is was built for was about 160 lbs and I am close to 200.

 

[XC700116]

Yeah the spring is probably your issue. most likely it has the 150 spring in it you'll probably need the 175. Call Holz and tell them exactly what you have and your riding style and weight. They'll hook you up right. I had my springs changed and the shocks revalved (both of them) for like $120 and they had them back to me in a week. then start your calibrations and you'll be happy I'm sure. They know their stuff.