holes after skinz AF Running boards

[inkstreme_05]

I installed a set of Skinz Air Frame running boards on my 2012 SBA 144. when installing you must remove the tunnel stiffener and discard it. however after removing the self piercing rivets holding it in, there is holes there that you don't cover or re-use. you cant just put a normal rivet in there cause the track will hit it. Anyone got any suggestions on how to plug it without it looking like a patch job?
Thanks.

 

[slash]

use hammer type rivets and flatten out the back

 

[inkstreme_05]

use hammer type rivets and flatten out the back

Problem with that is that I don't think there is enough room to swing a hammer.

 

[fuledya]

Wrap the tunnel, cheap, looks awesome, and will shed snow.

 

[theultrarider]

Problem with that is that I don't think there is enough room to swing a hammer.

There is when you drop the track out. Not a big deal. If you can. Install airframes, you can drop the track and install it.

 

[Dirty Steve]

Wrap the tunnel, cheap, looks awesome, and will shed snow.

X2- I called up Arctic FX and told the that I had removed the brace from my SBA and wanted the side piece for the wrap made to cover the whole side.

Also, after I installed my Airframes I noticed a lot of sand (from riding in ditches) and junk was getting in the gap between the inside tube and the side of the tunnel. I ran a bead of black silicone down the length of the tube for a much cleaner look.

Here it is installed:

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

 

[BJorgy17]

I just finished installing the wrp boards on my 12 600 144 (same tunnel as sba) and had the same deal old holes for the support didnt get covered ups. I knew this was gonna happen before i installed them so i used a disk grinder to grind down the hardened steel rivets just enough to get the support off then made sure they were flush with the tunnel and left them in the holes. they are still half tight and barely noticeable after i did a fresh polish job and put the new boards on. wrap idea is agood option too

 

[inkstreme_05]

X2- I called up Arctic FX and told the that I had removed the brace from my SBA and wanted the side piece for the wrap made to cover the whole side.

Also, after I installed my Airframes I noticed a lot of sand (from riding in ditches) and junk was getting in the gap between the inside tube and the side of the tunnel. I ran a bead of black silicone down the length of the tube for a much cleaner look.

Here it is installed:

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

How do you like them FOOTLOK traction cleats? I find that the snow ices up on them and makes them slippery as hell! thinking of putting the screws inbetween the ones that have two on each bar.

 

[Dirty Steve]

I haven't really noticed it building up too much. I don't think they give you enough cleats with the boards though. I left my front two bars bare at first because I was concerned about my boot getting caught. I just put some 3M grip tape on them. I was getting ice build up on the clutch side from the hot air melting the snow.
I called up Skinz and ordered 4 more cleats. You can see them on the front bars in my pic. The new ones they sent out are a bit shinier plastic and do not have the holes in them like the other ones. I wonder if this is to keep the from holding a little snow?

Either way these boards should be the first thing anyone does to an SBA. The stock boards are an absolute snow holding joke.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

 

[SayatodaU.P.eh?]

Either way these boards should be the first thing anyone does to an SBA. The stock boards are an absolute snow holding joke.

I agree 100%.

I've had the screws and now the cleats in mine. I prefer the cleats. I left the holes in my tunnel open but would like to wrap it, just haven't gotten to it yet.

 

[lorne1176]

Just use rivets from the inside of the tunnel to the outside with a small backing washer to help cover holes. By riveting from inside out will leave ample room for the track and you won't even notice the back side of the rivet and washer.

 

[danduvall]

Problem with that is that I don't think there is enough room to swing a hammer.

When using solid rivets... you only need to hold a steel bucking bar against the back of the rivet stem. The rivet head is the part that gets hit!! Get an old air chisel, cut the chisel head off, put it in the air hammer and use it to buck flat head solid aluminum rivets!