High Idle after storage (ya I cleaned the carbs)

[INDEEP]

2000 700 RMK w/ accs

After storing the sled for 2 seasons it idles high. (2000-2500rpms) I've taken the carbs off and cleaned them and they looked great. When I put it away I ran sta-bil and turned off the fuel till it died. It actually fluctuates between 2000-2500. Could this be the accs? It's strange that something changed but my next step was to adjust the air screw and maybe remove the accs. Thx for any help.

Shop's at 1500ft.
Main 185 mag 180 pto
45 pilots

riding 3000-6500

 

[Jay]

Sounds like an air leak somewhere, did you get the airbox back on right? I know I've thought I had in on right when actually the airbox rubbers were pushed into the airbox and it was pulling air from everywhere. The jetting sounds right to me, I don't know what the accs can do, I usually just toss them. Let us know what you find.

Maybe rotten vent lines?

 

[wi.switchback]

i'd say jay is on to your problem,fire the sled up and spray carb cleaner around the carb boots and air box and see if the rpm picks way up thats a easy way to check for a air leak or you could possibly have a crank seal going to

 

[INDEEP]

Yes the airbox is fully seated. In fact it idles the same whether the box is on or off. Adjusting the air screw (plastic one I assume) didn't do much. Next I want to delete the Accs. Which side of the accs stuff gets plugged and which is the vent?

PTO or Mag gets plugged? Does is matter?

 

[INDEEP]

I've done the carb cleaner trick and nothing changed. I'm hoping its the accs since it's easy and everyone seems to hate them anyway.

 

[garlic bear]

idle

make sure your throttle cable is loose it might be pulled out at the throttle end.If the cables are loose and no air leaks then its in the carbs the accs shouldnt make it idle high it controls the air in the float bowls

 

[Jay]

GB has a very good idea, check the throttle cables.

 

[INDEEP]

Cables are good. I played with the Accs and it didn't do much for the idle. I got it down to about 2000rpm with the air screw. I'm going to leave it alone and see if it changes on the hill. Currently in a 1/2 turn out on the fuel and 3 turns on the air.

 

[INDEEP]

I still wouldn't mind getting rid of the Accs. I'm just not sure what to plug and vent. Each carb appears to have two vents (all link up and go to the accs) and the mag side carb has a line that goes to the accs unit.

 

[Jay]

I'd make sure the carb slides are sitting down all the way in the carbs, pull the airbox and actually see that the slides are bottoming out. As for the carb venting, the pic you have posted you can see a vent line from each side of the carb joining together in a T, vent the tail of the T into the airbox (from each carb) On my '98 they attach just above the airbox boots on the face of the airbox. Do you have a '97 or '98 rmk available to see what they look like?

 

[judger101]

did you spray around your crank seal behind the primary? when i had a 2000 800 i was getting the same thing, too bad i waited too long and it took out a piston. keep spraying around it is easy to miss a small air leak.

 

[INDEEP]

I'll pull the primary and hit it again. Makes me wonder since the carb adjustments have little effect.

 

[rmkrazi]

Just a suggestion... The mag housing mates to the engine block and where it mates to the block is actually more inboard than the mag seal. The two surfaces are machined (like crank case halves) and require anaerobic sealant to seal the two surfaces (again like the crank case halves).
It's possible to pull air from this area if the sealant is deteriorated, so if you haven't sprayed any carb cleaner around that part of the motor, it might not hurt to try.

 

[FEZ]

A very common cause of a fluctuating idle is the carb slides are not synced. And with all due respect, could you see through the pilots when you had them out? They can "look" great, but still be plugged. Does tapping the choke drop the idle? If one pilot is plugged and the other is not, that could also cause this kind of idle.

Also the intake boots rip on these motors just above where the oil line connects to the boot. It is hard to see sometimes unless you flex the boot to show the tear. When mine ripped I started seeing a thin layer of oil around the tear.

The venting is like one other said. Vent the 2 T'd lines into the airbox then plug the extra one on the mag carb. My inlets are just above and to the mag side of the airbox inlets. The pics below also help illustrate.

When the ACCS fails, it goes rich. When you remove the ACCS you need to run 38 pilots and 1371G needles in the 3rd slot. Your mains are pretty close. The sled will run MUCH better and use less fuel. I run 180-185 here in MN which never gets over about 1000' and I have seen 12MPG when trail riding with the family. I run a 144 finger cut to 1.5 for MN riding so I am sure that helps. This jetting is safe to -5 and after that I typically stay in the cabin...

Also, if you have not yet replaced them, replace the float needles and the water trap hoses on the bottom of the carbs, then check the float height. The float height isn't that critical as I played with mine one year. I was 3MM "leaner" which is a lower setting than stock and I felt no change but it is good to have them the same.


IMO removing the ACCS and changing the jetting to the above is one of the best things you can do for this sled.

 

[FEZ]

my venting.


* note the mag carb does not have the extra vent as I had to buy a new set due to the seat for the float needle had worn out causing an overly rich condition. The seats are not replaceable on these carbs...

 

[Scott]

I haven't read all the thread...but if you give it s short blip of the throttle...does it stumble or give a nice braap?

If it stumbles at ALL it's lean.