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High Elevation Adapt Turbo Clutching

dgibbons

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Who's running an Adapt Turbo setup at 10k+ Elevation? I've got a 2020 Silber at 5-6psi, CnS tuned with Team clutch. 48S helix (can't remember the secondary spring I have in it, it's the CnS venom spring I believe but don't remember spring rates), stock 120-265 primary spring and CnS weights loaded to 76g. Ideally, I'd like to be able to swap primary for primary and only have to buy weights and potentially primary spring, but understand that may not be possible. Sled runs great in current form, trying not to spend a bunch of money and time testing if there are proven setups on the snow, but I haven't found any really great reviews. Interested to hear what others have on the snow.
 
Who's running an Adapt Turbo setup at 10k+ Elevation? I've got a 2020 Silber at 5-6psi, CnS tuned with Team clutch. 48S helix (can't remember the secondary spring I have in it, it's the CnS venom spring I believe but don't remember spring rates), stock 120-265 primary spring and CnS weights loaded to 76g. Ideally, I'd like to be able to swap primary for primary and only have to buy weights and potentially primary spring, but understand that may not be possible. Sled runs great in current form, trying not to spend a bunch of money and time testing if there are proven setups on the snow, but I haven't found any really great reviews. Interested to hear what others have on the snow.
HI! So I bought a used sidekick kit for my 19, the clutching they run sucks it ran stock secondary spring, helix (48s) and a heavier primary spring and I think similar weight to you. You can totally just go with a primary setup leaving your secondary alone. if you did I'd buy the primary spring and weights and I can send you what they recommend for magnet position and you should be good to go.

I talked with bdx/ssi and bought a complete clutch kit for my 19 with an adapt clutch From them as their prices were very good too! I'm very happy with it and woke up my lazy sidekick kit. get rid of your 48s helix, seriously... They got me on a 44-48 and it takes off like stock n/a. However my throttle chop could be a tad better, i highly recommend a 44-46 helix, at your elevation I'd even go for a 42-46..I'll eventually go to the 44-46, maybe 42-46, a fella runs a straight 46 and his throttle chop is close to n/a. Mines half a second slower.

I want to say the whole kit from them was like 300 USD... Almost half that of others., they custom make and cut helix's so can make what ever you want.

Here's their setup for adapt primary and secondary.

Total weight 69g, 125-290 primary spring., secondary is a 190-260 spring and as mentioned 44-48 helix.

That said in a week or 2 I'll have these high elevation adjustable weights for sale, base of 60g to 75g, I ride 4500ft+ and fully loaded I'm 8600 rpm and 8400 at 6k ft. (which is OK) and can't turn boost down below 5 so they were kind to send me their heavier weight.

This fella runs the straight 46 helix and similar setup with a sidekick turbo kit and Its been the cleanest running I've seen, you'd sware it was n/a
 
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My throttle chop is money, it's just a bit laggy from a stop but in and out of the throttle is great. I don't want to compromise that. My buddy running a 19 boondocker is running a 44-48 helix with Cat weights and seemed to like it. My tip heavy CnS weights and stock primary spring are what make the 48s helix perform well (outside of the slight lag off the bottom). I'm comparing to my speedwerx stage 2 on my other sled which is a torque monster off the bottom.

Are you saying I should buy Boondocker weights/spring if I don't want to touch secondary? $300 is reasonable if it comes with helix, weights and springs. I'm concerned my setup may need to be different since I'm double the elevation you're riding. If 48s didn't work for you, I'm confused what would be different that would work for me? I have a 45s Dalton helix in my shop that I pulled when I went turbo. I got serious rpm fade and hot a** clutches in the deep in my stock setup trying to pull 48s at my elevation. 45s worked great. Sounding like I might need a dual cut helix to get same results I'm currently getting.
 
My throttle chop is money, it's just a bit laggy from a stop but in and out of the throttle is great. I don't want to compromise that. My buddy running a 19 boondocker is running a 44-48 helix with Cat weights and seemed to like it. My tip heavy CnS weights and stock primary spring are what make the 48s helix perform well (outside of the slight lag off the bottom). I'm comparing to my speedwerx stage 2 on my other sled which is a torque monster off the bottom.

Are you saying I should buy Boondocker weights/spring if I don't want to touch secondary? $300 is reasonable if it comes with helix, weights and springs. I'm concerned my setup may need to be different since I'm double the elevation you're riding. If 48s didn't work for you, I'm confused what would be different that would work for me? I have a 45s Dalton helix in my shop that I pulled when I went turbo. I got serious rpm fade and hot a** clutches in the deep in my stock setup trying to pull 48s at my elevation. 45s worked great. Sounding like I might need a dual cut helix to get same results I'm currently getting.


I wouldn't buy the boondocker stuff no, expensive and not much feedback. I meant that's what the kit was and it ran poorly and it's what they said to run, they blamed my sled and other things which its not. So I bought the bdx/ssi complete clutch kit and as mentioned what they run in the kit, it works really good.

With the turbo I'm learning lots as well clutching wise. Going from the straight 48 helix to a 44-48 helix really woke my sled up on the bottom end, take off is like stock, the straight 48 felt doggy and slow. It's now very revvy and responsive. But at the same time I did put in their stiffer spring they provided too. Due to you riding higher yet maybe even like a 42-48 would work even better. My turbo kit, our kits? Don't have that fancy air intake bypass valve like say the solid turbo kit does. So from a dead spot when we mash the throttle the engine is starving for air since turbo basically becomes a momentary air restriction. It's not making the power and torque it would n/a. So the lower helix angle helps it over come that. Once it moves and turbo kicks in (rather quick) off you go.




So perhaps for your self try a helix and or secondary spring from bdx/ssi, they custom make them and only $100 USD I believe which ain't too bad if your American, (Canadian exchange sucks) their whole clutch kit with weights, spring, helix i believe is $300 USD. You'd have to check their site. Also super helpful when I called in too which was great.

My setup now
 
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