Mountainhorse asked me to write a presentation on HID Lighting in snowmobiles... So here you go.
How it all works:
Different HID ballast types:
Bulbs:
Snowmobiles:
It is very common that snowmobile manufacturers use alternating current (AC) for their light bulbs. Especially on 2-strokes. This can cause you problems if you plan a conversion of your sled. The ballasts of a HID kit requires direct current (DC) to function properly.
To further complicate this a bit. Some brands use “two” electrical systems. One for AC and another for DC. If it is DC the ground cable should be connected to the snowmobile frame. If it is AC it utilizes a ground from the generator. Try to figure out this before you convert. Do not connect AC to DC.
We have found it easier to convert sleds with electric start then rope pulled ones. Simply it’s because the battery needs to be charged with direct current (DC). And therefore are equipped with an oem rectifier/regulator.
When you buy a HID for your sled you need to remember that you need a bi-xenon kit. The difference from a single beam kit is that the bulb in a bi-xenon kit has a movable shield used to switch between hi and lo. Normally a bi-xenon kit uses only one bulb connector. I recommend using two single relay harnesses instead and use both bulb connectors.
Converting a sled:
Step 1: First thing to do is make sure your main lights are supplied by direct current (DC). If it’s direct current continue to Step 3. If not, continue read at Step 2.
Step 2: You need to get a rectifier/regulator to transform AC to DC, and in some cases, a small battery or a capacitor. For US customers Trail Tech can supply you with what you need for this. Or with an oem rectifier/regulator it is plug n' play. The battery/capacitor is there to prevent an overload on the electrical system. If there is a demand I can try supply you with both rectifier and capacitor at a SnoWest price.
Step 3: Change your standard bulbs to the ones from your kit. As always, try to keep the bulb as clean as possible (No fingers on the bulb). Mount the ballasts where you find a good spot. Double adhesive tape can be your friend if you are short on good spots to mount the ballasts. Connect all connectors together and pull the rope. You should now see a razor sharp light beam out of your headlights. Not as plug and play as on a car. But still possible.
Disclaimer: Every brand have their own idea of how their lighting system should function. I cannot guarantee that my guide is 100% percent correct. Use fuses and do it at your own risk. If you have questions do not hesitate to use this thread. It is better to ask one question too much than fry something under the hood. We will try to solve all problems together.
Here's the link to my shop: http://www.hidini.com
How it all works:
- The ballast is simply explained a transformer with some electronics to transform the system voltage to a much higher voltage used to lit the xenon gas in the bulb.
- The ballast is rated at a certain output. In this example 55W. You can use a 35W bulb with the 55W ballast without putting anything else but the bulb at stake. Do not try to inverse this and use a 55W bulb with a 35W ballast. It will work, but not for so long.
Different HID ballast types:
- There are a couple of different types of ballasts out there.
- Standard full size ones will suit 95% of all customers. Cheaper, I find them more reliable. On the minus side, they are a little bigger and almost suited for a certain voltage (12V or 24V). See picture below.
- Slim with digital controlling: A little bit more expensive. Smaller than standard full size ballasts. Takes a wide range of voltage input. On the negative side. There’s a coil on the cable between the ballast and the lamp connector. See picture below.
Bulbs:
- There are a million type of bulbs out there and it should be possible to find virtually any one you would want. I will instead focus more on color temp (Kelvin, K). When K is increased the color of the light turns more blue, when increasing K the light flow (measured in lumens, lm) decreases a little. The most common color temp is 4300K, bright white light, ideal when it’s dark. 6000K is another popular color temp. It’s ideal if you ride in the dark and it at the same time snows. The blue light do not reflect back from the snowflakes as good as white light. 8000K is a little more blue than 6000K. Looks heavy.
- Single bulb: Only one bulb.
- Bi-xenon bulb: One bulb with a movable shield or bulb.
- Dual bulb: Two bulbs in one. Not one of the most reliable inventions, yet..
- What about Wattage? 35W is okay for Average Joe. It is more light than from a standard car with halogen bulbs. Far more. 55W suits you well if you are afraid of the dark. If you know that you have a more powerfull electrical system on your sled then go with 55W.
- You will need to adjust your headlight a little to get the light where you like to. Mainly because of the shape of the bulb. Remember that at some point you will meet someone at the trail with a similar setup. Try not to burn your buddies retinas out.
- A 35W HID bulb have about three times as much output in lumens as a 55W halogen
- Will the heat destroy the reflectors in my headlight? No! The bulb is cooler compared to a halogen dito. In some conditions you might have to scratch ice from your headlights.
Snowmobiles:
It is very common that snowmobile manufacturers use alternating current (AC) for their light bulbs. Especially on 2-strokes. This can cause you problems if you plan a conversion of your sled. The ballasts of a HID kit requires direct current (DC) to function properly.
To further complicate this a bit. Some brands use “two” electrical systems. One for AC and another for DC. If it is DC the ground cable should be connected to the snowmobile frame. If it is AC it utilizes a ground from the generator. Try to figure out this before you convert. Do not connect AC to DC.
We have found it easier to convert sleds with electric start then rope pulled ones. Simply it’s because the battery needs to be charged with direct current (DC). And therefore are equipped with an oem rectifier/regulator.
When you buy a HID for your sled you need to remember that you need a bi-xenon kit. The difference from a single beam kit is that the bulb in a bi-xenon kit has a movable shield used to switch between hi and lo. Normally a bi-xenon kit uses only one bulb connector. I recommend using two single relay harnesses instead and use both bulb connectors.
- I can put together a SnoWest HID kit with 2 standard 35W ballasts, 2 35W bi-xenon bulbs and 2 single relay harness at a reasonable pricing.
Converting a sled:
Step 1: First thing to do is make sure your main lights are supplied by direct current (DC). If it’s direct current continue to Step 3. If not, continue read at Step 2.
Step 2: You need to get a rectifier/regulator to transform AC to DC, and in some cases, a small battery or a capacitor. For US customers Trail Tech can supply you with what you need for this. Or with an oem rectifier/regulator it is plug n' play. The battery/capacitor is there to prevent an overload on the electrical system. If there is a demand I can try supply you with both rectifier and capacitor at a SnoWest price.
Step 3: Change your standard bulbs to the ones from your kit. As always, try to keep the bulb as clean as possible (No fingers on the bulb). Mount the ballasts where you find a good spot. Double adhesive tape can be your friend if you are short on good spots to mount the ballasts. Connect all connectors together and pull the rope. You should now see a razor sharp light beam out of your headlights. Not as plug and play as on a car. But still possible.
Disclaimer: Every brand have their own idea of how their lighting system should function. I cannot guarantee that my guide is 100% percent correct. Use fuses and do it at your own risk. If you have questions do not hesitate to use this thread. It is better to ask one question too much than fry something under the hood. We will try to solve all problems together.
Here's the link to my shop: http://www.hidini.com
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