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What is the best way to get the M/C to back shift. I have a 03.5 900 with a can and reeds, and a 162-2.5 track. the set up a lot of guys are running around here is a 60/52 helix with a green sno-pro spring, but I don't have good back shift. any thoughts? I'm running 70.5 weights
do I get more back shift with a tighter secondary spring?
 
What is the best way to get the M/C to back shift. I have a 03.5 900 with a can and reeds, and a 162-2.5 track. the set up a lot of guys are running around here is a 60/52 helix with a green sno-pro spring, but I don't have good back shift. any thoughts? I'm running 70.5 weights
do I get more back shift with a tighter secondary spring?

First thing you need to do is junk that helix. Get a 51 degree or even a 49 and put in a red secondary spring in the second to loosest hole. You will never back shift a 60deg helix fast enough.

Also I like to runn 66 gram weights with the yellow white (stock) primary spring.

Thunder
 
I use.....

I use a sno-pro green with 51 deg straight. That should work. I have had pretty good luck with the red/white and a 49.
Both are for high alt.

Owen
 
Last edited:
weights

I am running stock pipe with can, so I'm looking to run around 7450-7500 right?
I have a 51* and a 53* I will try the 51 this weekend. any more input?
 
check your rollers on the primary to make sure they turn freely,check your rollers on the secondary to make sure there not flatspotted to,then proceed with tuneing
 
I run a 51* with a Bikeman black spring (between a R/W and G), 67 gr. weights and stock T primary. Works good up to 10,000, above that I need to drop some weight.
 
Try a cat 48/44 helix, I used it on multiple setups with cat rw spring in the middle hole it will backshift like crazy.
 
Thanks

I should of told you that I ride from 3500-7000 ft. and I mostly ride in trees and small shorter climbs. I have new springs and rollers in the both clutches, I will be out testing this weekend. thanks for the help, keep it coming.
 
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