i have a 2010 rmk 700 with silber turbo. looking for a little help tuning it.never had a turbo before or a fuel injected sled. so not to sure what to do. i reset the attitude controller to stock settings but cant get afr to desired settings
help with tuning 2010 rmk 700 with silber turbo
- Thread starter corey n
- Start date
i only drove it for a few minutes because it was set up for colorado and i live in minnesota so im trying to set it up for less alttitude
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Spaarky
Well-known member
What do you mean, you reset it to stock settings? What AFR is off? You may want to read through instructions on the Silber website. What do you have in it for fuel?
Last I would turn all the fuel wide open and start turning it down if you don't know what you are doing.
No offense but it sounds like a good recipe for disaster to me.
Last I would turn all the fuel wide open and start turning it down if you don't know what you are doing.
No offense but it sounds like a good recipe for disaster to me.
the settings that come default on the attitude programmer on silbers website. at wot i want 11.6 to 12 afr but the gauge isnt reading anything different it stays at 14.7 even when you give it gas. i just bought it and there is 110 race fuel in it
ya i called there tech line and i did what he said but it seems like i will have to get ahold of them again to see what they have to suggest
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Spaarky
Well-known member
K.. good, keep 110 in it. That may save your butt if you screw up. If you wean it off race fuel someday your numbers will probably change. Have you opened it up to how much boost you are running? That doesn't really matter except if you are running in Minnesota, if you push it to far, it will deto the motor, possibly.
How much have you cracked the throttle. Mine takes a little bit to the numbers going. Then the reaction is quick.
What afr gauge is on the sled? You may need a new sensor. Bosch is a favorite. You can probably pick one up at a auto parts store.
Also you can run it up to 12.5. Check your piston wash when you are doing it. My sled there is a big difference between 12 and 12.5. For me back in the Midwest, I just run it rich. Doesn't matter much for me here. In the mountains, I get it cranked down.
Where are you in Minnesota?
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its got a aem gauge. i havnt cracked it to hard yet but i will see what it does. i live in grand rapids mn
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Boyko
Well-known member
This is one thing I dont like about AEM widebands, If there is a problem with the gauge it sometime stays at 14.7 Your sensor might be shot, that gauge should change when you touch the throttle. You need that thing working before you can tune it.
yeah that is what i thought anytime you hit the gas it should change i will have to pick a new one up.
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bboll
Member
Hey corey,
I too have a 700 dragon with a silber turbo and live in MN. I was in your boat 1 year ago, first EFI and first turbo. First off let me say this, I am far from an expert and I have never really set my sled up correctly for MN. However there are a lot of guys on here that are very good resources. Many guys have moved from dragons to a 800 pro but much of the tuning logic and principals still apply. Read old posts.
Here are some things to consider.
Are you trying to the run the sled in MN only or are you just testing riding in MN before heading to higher elevation?
You must consider the level of boost that you are running in MN, Silber's standard wastgate has a spring it to that will only allow the boost to go as low as 7lbs. That is if you turn the rod all the way out. 7lbs at 1000' is a lot of HP, as 14psi atmospheric pressure turns into 21psi manifold pressure. With more air you need more fuel, and with more air and more fuel you will get more power. The guys above referenced 110 octane fuel. It is good that you are starting out there, more octane = less chance of detenation and a engine that retards itself. Silber has a chart that has Octance recommendations for a certain altitude and boost level, you should reference that.
Another thing to keep in mind is that you are now producing way more power than stock and will need to clutch for it. I have had to put 78-82 grams of weight in my primary just to keep my sled from over reving. If the sled over revs (8400+ I think) it will retard the engine.
You mentioned Justin's 'stock' fueling numbers. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but I think that these numbers were set up for the West Yellowstone area. Your sled will correct some for the elevation drop but you should error on the side of caution (more fuel) when riding it in MN. With cold dense air at 1000' you will likely need to add more to the fuel per lbs of boost. Also, like others have said watch your plugs and piston wash in addition to your AFR.
There are some old posts in this forum for checking AFR sensors I would suggest reading those before buying a new sensor. Something to the effect of pulling the O2 sensor and stuffing into a gas rag to see if it runs rich on the AFR gauge.
Good luck.
I too have a 700 dragon with a silber turbo and live in MN. I was in your boat 1 year ago, first EFI and first turbo. First off let me say this, I am far from an expert and I have never really set my sled up correctly for MN. However there are a lot of guys on here that are very good resources. Many guys have moved from dragons to a 800 pro but much of the tuning logic and principals still apply. Read old posts.
Here are some things to consider.
Are you trying to the run the sled in MN only or are you just testing riding in MN before heading to higher elevation?
You must consider the level of boost that you are running in MN, Silber's standard wastgate has a spring it to that will only allow the boost to go as low as 7lbs. That is if you turn the rod all the way out. 7lbs at 1000' is a lot of HP, as 14psi atmospheric pressure turns into 21psi manifold pressure. With more air you need more fuel, and with more air and more fuel you will get more power. The guys above referenced 110 octane fuel. It is good that you are starting out there, more octane = less chance of detenation and a engine that retards itself. Silber has a chart that has Octance recommendations for a certain altitude and boost level, you should reference that.
Another thing to keep in mind is that you are now producing way more power than stock and will need to clutch for it. I have had to put 78-82 grams of weight in my primary just to keep my sled from over reving. If the sled over revs (8400+ I think) it will retard the engine.
You mentioned Justin's 'stock' fueling numbers. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but I think that these numbers were set up for the West Yellowstone area. Your sled will correct some for the elevation drop but you should error on the side of caution (more fuel) when riding it in MN. With cold dense air at 1000' you will likely need to add more to the fuel per lbs of boost. Also, like others have said watch your plugs and piston wash in addition to your AFR.
There are some old posts in this forum for checking AFR sensors I would suggest reading those before buying a new sensor. Something to the effect of pulling the O2 sensor and stuffing into a gas rag to see if it runs rich on the AFR gauge.
Good luck.
thanks everyone
