Help with SLP clutch tool alignment 09 d8

[AndyL]

Im trying to check my clutch alignment with the SLP tool and have a couple questions. First. The instructions that come with the tool say to butt it tight up against the secondary and measure .030" against the motor side of primary. After looking up Kravans post in the iq sticky, he is shimming the left side of the secondary .100" and right side .120" THEN checking the clearance to the primary for .030".
As my sled sits, its set to what the instructions came with from SLP and its smoking the belt at idle. Do I need to disregard SLP and go with Kravan and subtract washers?

 

[slash]

they made 2 alignment tools 1 is wright 1 is not, team and P2

 

[AndyL]

This is the tool I ordered from slp.

 

[Kraven]

Im trying to check my clutch alignment with the SLP tool and have a couple questions. First. The instructions that come with the tool say to butt it tight up against the secondary and measure .030" against the motor side of primary. After looking up Kravans post in the iq sticky, he is shimming the left side of the secondary .100" and right side .120" THEN checking the clearance to the primary for .030".
As my sled sits, its set to what the instructions came with from SLP and its smoking the belt at idle. Do I need to disregard SLP and go with Kravan and subtract washers?

RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB, no .100" of air gap required!

My pics in the thread are of the old/original SLP tool (which was really originally intended to be used on a wider older style TSS-98 secondary) so when using their "old - style" alignment bar on the lightweight (NARROWER) secondary, you had to have .100" - .120" of gap to compensate for the narrower TSS-04 Lightweight secondary.

Since then, SLP now offers (2) tools , each specific to the (2) different secondaries

It's hard to tell from your pic, but it appears YOUR SLP tool intended for;

A) NARROWER LIGHTWEIGHT TSS-04 (4 bolts holding helix in) & POLARIS P-2

(This would be the correct tool to be used on your D-9, NO .100" AIR GAP)


and NOT for:

B) WIDER & OLDER TSS-98 (6 or 8 screws holding helix in) ???


IF YOU'RE SMOKING YOUR BELT AT IDLE:

1) BELT DEFLECTION: Is the belt riding too HIGH in the secondary? If so, adjust the secondary to make it W-I-D-E-R, thereby lowering the belt and increasing deflection (loosening the belt)

2) PRIMARY SHEAVE TO BELT SIDE CLEARANCE: Do you have SIDE CLEARANCE between the side of your belt and PRIMARY clutch sheave ?? ( .010" -.015" is preferred) Perhaps you/someone changed weights with a different shoulder height and it's closed up the primary sheaves???? Installing a MTX weight causes this if you don't re-shim your primary spyder.

3) CENTER TO CENTER 11.5": Remove your primary & secondary, BUTT an accurate metal rule up against the jack-shaft (1" diameter), and look for 11.00" (11.5" minus 1/2" jack shaft radius = 11.00") at the crank center

Hope this helps sort out your problem

Hope this clears things up
TOP PIC-POLARIS LIGHTWEIGHT TOOL
MIDDLE ORIGINAL SLP TOOL
BOTTOM- ANCIENT TOOL FROM THE PREHISTORIC AGE FOR BUTTON SECONDARIES

 

[SwiftJonny]

I think AndyL is wondering the same thing as me. Where is the baseline? Is it with the secondary pushed tight towards the center of the sled, with the float coming away from the sled, or the other way around? I bought the same SLP tool as AndyL did, and the instructions are vague.

 

[Kraven]

I think AndyL is wondering the same thing as me. Where is the baseline? Is it with the secondary pushed tight towards the center of the sled, with the float coming away from the sled, or the other way around? I bought the same SLP tool as AndyL did, and the instructions are vague.

Look at the pics under INCREASING YOUR IQ

There's a pic there with the secondary "lightly contacting" the alignment bar

If you want to run .030" of float, set it up to where you're .015" both ways from that point of contact in the pic

For your purposes using the NEWER SLP alignment bar, please DISREGARD the .100" and .120" that's stamped onto the OLD STYLE SLP alignment bar that 's in the pic below.

Please post a pic of the alignment bar on your sled and I'll try to help you out.

Don't worry about the secondary jack-shaft shims at this point.

Remove the secondary bolt and put the secondary to where the alignment bar LIGHTLY contacts the front of the secondary

Then what's the AIR GAP between the alignment bar & rear of the secondary at that point??