Help with slitting an 800 ho crank case!
- Thread starter KEPT ENT.
- Start date
Took the jugs off, those look fine, must be in the crank then...... this is my problem..... what is the " easiest " way to split the crank case. Any help would be great.
R
RKT
Well-known member
They are pretty simple and straight forward to split..
1) Pull mag and stator
2) Locate the 2 6mm allen bolts on top of the water pump area. Remove them
3)Turn engine upside down and you will see all the remaining bolts.. Removed them
4)Now the cases can be seperated.. Sometimes, you may need a RUBBER mallet to tap them apart. other times, just pull apart with hand strength.
Hope this helps
Kelsey
1) Pull mag and stator
2) Locate the 2 6mm allen bolts on top of the water pump area. Remove them
3)Turn engine upside down and you will see all the remaining bolts.. Removed them
4)Now the cases can be seperated.. Sometimes, you may need a RUBBER mallet to tap them apart. other times, just pull apart with hand strength.
Hope this helps
Kelsey
M
mastertech
Well-known member
step 1. Go to the nearest hotel amnd go to the top floor.
Step 2. Open window.
Step 3. Throw motor out window.
Step 2. Open window.
Step 3. Throw motor out window.
K
KEPT ENT.
New member
M
mastertech
Well-known member
Should I repeat steps 1-3 with the rest of the sled too??
Yes.. And then proceed to the nearest person selling a 05 or newer rev..
C
clutch man
Well-known member
when you do split the case have allot of rags ready all the oil from the oil/water pump galley will come out. better yet do this over a bucket.
K
KEPT ENT.
New member
So is this a common occurance with this year? Should I be looking for a new motor maybe?
How many miles?
With that many miles it is not uncommon to lose a crank bearing. Hindsight is 20/20 but if you just did top end that recently with that many miles, you should have at least split the case and had crank checked at that point.
I just went over 3600 miles on my engine (05) and will be inspecting crank and new top end this summer. Good luck and hopefully there is no case damage.
C
clutch man
Well-known member
this is a common occurrence on all Ski-Doo 800 motors period.
F
FNG
Active member
If you don't have a manual, now is the time to get one..., just use the crank sealer that is suggested as those things have a certain viscosity which the engineers take into account when they pick the product, the squeeze out then leaves a fairly predictable thickness and therefore clamp pressure on the bearings when tightened to the proper torque (that's what I understand anyway).
You can order the bearing grease directly from Kluber manufacturing for way less than 1/2 what your dealer is going to charge you for the same stuff, you just have to set up an account saying that you are Joe's (insert any name here) snowmobile shop and they will sell it to you direct.
I seem to remember the crank case sealer as being Three Bond Liquid Gasket 1194 and the Kluber grease is Isoflex Topas NB 52 and you will need 2 50 gm tubes at about $19.00 each direct from Kluber, (google is you friend
).
Oh, I like to take digital pics of things as I take them apart for the first time, it really comes in handy when the parts have finally come in and it's time for re-assembly.
Another thing it's best to pull the mag and stator when the engine is still in the sled so you can leave the belt on the clutches which will hold the crank while you free the mag nut, that suckers really on there and it's much more of a bear to get off once the engine is out of the sled... unless you have air tools and a bit of luck that is!
Best of luck
You can order the bearing grease directly from Kluber manufacturing for way less than 1/2 what your dealer is going to charge you for the same stuff, you just have to set up an account saying that you are Joe's (insert any name here) snowmobile shop and they will sell it to you direct.
I seem to remember the crank case sealer as being Three Bond Liquid Gasket 1194 and the Kluber grease is Isoflex Topas NB 52 and you will need 2 50 gm tubes at about $19.00 each direct from Kluber, (google is you friend
).Oh, I like to take digital pics of things as I take them apart for the first time, it really comes in handy when the parts have finally come in and it's time for re-assembly.
Another thing it's best to pull the mag and stator when the engine is still in the sled so you can leave the belt on the clutches which will hold the crank while you free the mag nut, that suckers really on there and it's much more of a bear to get off once the engine is out of the sled... unless you have air tools and a bit of luck that is!
Best of luck
Last edited:
K
KEPT ENT.
New member
OK..... finally got the clutch off, had some delays in plans. Found the problem.......... its the PTO side bearing!!!!! Looks like the either the seal is gone or one of the oil lines were not hooked up to the port at the bearing. For any Noobs doing this job.... PULL THE CLUTCH OFF IN THE SLED!!!!!!!! New question, how far should I go with replacing parts inside? I am guessing all the bearings, should I do a top end too?
F
FNG
Active member
When you say you "blew up" your 800, what exactly do you mean?, did the engine seize? (ie, scoring on pistons and/or cylinder walls) or what actualy made you crack this thing open.
If you really only have 500KM on a new top end then maybe you can get away with not doing the top end again but that's up to you. SOme people simply replace the bearing that was bad, others replace em all, again, it's up to you and what your pocket book can afford.
Pics of your pistons and cylinders might help
If you really only have 500KM on a new top end then maybe you can get away with not doing the top end again but that's up to you. SOme people simply replace the bearing that was bad, others replace em all, again, it's up to you and what your pocket book can afford.
Pics of your pistons and cylinders might help
