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Help with secondary spring

D

dmkhnr

Well-known member
Can somebody post some instructions for changing the secondary spring?
Do I need a press, or can I muscle this job?

I've gone as far as removing the helix.
thanks
 
You won't be able to muscle it without some sort of press. I believe either Team or slp makes a little special tool to compress the secondary spring. you have to compress the spring in order to remove the snap ring. When i did mine I used a regular press and a special john deere tool that we use to compress a similar clutch spring setup on the syncronizer shafts in tractors.
 
X2 on the compressor.
With some of the pressures the team clutches us its about impossible without a compressor.
The old button clutches you could stand on the helix in a pinch if you had to. Those are wimpy springs compared to a Team Spring though.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk
 
You could use the 1/2" threaded rod with 2 flat plates and nuts technique of compressing the secondary.
 
You could use the 1/2" threaded rod with 2 flat plates and nuts technique of compressing the secondary.

exactly.....wish I had a pic of this for you, but i used to do the same w my doo
costs about $8 to make and works awesome
 
Thank you for the schooling. I've got plenty of 1/2" threaded rod laying around.
Should I make some timing marks on the sheaves, or anywhere else?
 
Thank you for the schooling. I've got plenty of 1/2" threaded rod laying around.
Should I make some timing marks on the sheaves, or anywhere else?

I probably shouldnt even be responding, cause i dont know....BUT!.......
I would it take 3 seconds to make a mark on each side
if it was me I would.....but NO IDEA if its 100% needed
I always did when i changed things out on the REV, both the secondary and primary
 
The sheaves are balanced separately, if they weren't, when your clutch opened it would be out of balance because the sheaves rotate away from each other. So no need for marks on the secondary.
 
Build your own spring tool!

1-2x6x14" (I used a 2x4)
1-3/8"x16" threaded rod (center rod)
2-3/8"x6" threaded rod (outer two rods)
1-1/4"x1"x5" steel plate (Or angle iron, wood, anything that won't bend)
1-1/2"x5" piece of PVC conduit (over center rod,isolates rod from clutch)
11- 3/8" nuts
6-3/8" washers
Drill 3/8" hole in center of 2x6, counter sink bottom hole.
Drill 3-3/8" holes in steel plate. One in center and the other two 1-3/8" off center. Double nut two outer 6"rods to steel plate. Use top 3/8" nut and 9/16" wrench to drive the top center nut/plate downward to compress spring. Remove snap-ring. Back off top nut. I made this in about 20 minutes with stuff I had laying around for $.00.
1/2" rod would work better but I didn't have any. Threading the two outer holes in the steel plate would be better as apposed to double nutting the two outer rods. I made the center and two outer rods longer than they needed to be, it just makes it easier to get the snap-ring tool in there.:second:
 
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