Help removing reeds....
- Thread starter buck1
- Start date
Pull the air box, bleed off the fuel lines and disconnect them. Drain the coolant down below the throttle body and pull the clutch side coolant line off the head so the throttle bodies can move. You can then pull them lose and just push them back out of the way. Take the top set of injectors out, be careful not to lose the o-rings in the cylinders. Some say you can do the reeds without pulling the top injectors, I can't.
Once the injectors are out of the way, remove the bolts in the throttle boots and pull them out. Its a one piece plate.
Reverse to reassemble.
sled_guy
Once the injectors are out of the way, remove the bolts in the throttle boots and pull them out. Its a one piece plate.
Reverse to reassemble.
sled_guy
S
snowman429
Member
What are the best reeds to put back on with turbo? Stock or what?[/QUOTE]
Stock reeds are the best for turbo's.
Stock reeds are the best for turbo's.
Go to HPE and order two sets of stock replacement petals and double them up. Response is still great and is supposed to last much longer. You will also need to grind/sand down the center airfoil so that it will fit back into the proper position.
E
EricW
Well-known member
The easiest access will be to remove the seat, tank, cowling, air box (2piece, there is a plastic push dart that you will need to shear off on the front left side, then 2 tabs that release the top half from the bottom for easy removal), throttle bodies, then reed cage. If you are boosted you will want to add the TB boot reinforcement plate while you are in there. BD, Silber, and many others have it.
It's also a good time to check /calibrate your TPS and check your oil pump linkage alignment. I would also replace the left/PTO front motor mount bolt with the ARP bolt from Summit Racing. You might also consider adding additional grounding wires from ecu plate to chassis and to motor mounts. All the above can pbe found with pics in the "Increasing Your IQ" section at the top of this thread. Good time to make some quality preventative upgrades. Good luck. EW
It's also a good time to check /calibrate your TPS and check your oil pump linkage alignment. I would also replace the left/PTO front motor mount bolt with the ARP bolt from Summit Racing. You might also consider adding additional grounding wires from ecu plate to chassis and to motor mounts. All the above can pbe found with pics in the "Increasing Your IQ" section at the top of this thread. Good time to make some quality preventative upgrades. Good luck. EW
Anyone think it would be easier to loosen the engine and roll it forward to get to the reeds easier? If so tell me the easiest way.....
E
EricW
Well-known member
This is the airbox, you will have to shear off the dart connecting upper and lower halves here
Undo these locking tabs
Comes apart like this
The plate you need for the throttle body boot looks like this
The view of the reed cage after air box is out looks like this
Good luck. EW
Undo these locking tabs
Comes apart like this
The plate you need for the throttle body boot looks like this
The view of the reed cage after air box is out looks like this
Good luck. EW
Thank you for showing the pictures. Except i have a turbo and the airbox is modified and I've removed it. The problem is getting fuel lines. hoses and everything else out of the way to get the the bolts. Any more ideas? Remove tank? or motor mounts? or just do knuckle busting work?
Actually the more I think about it the more the seat/tank removal sounds like the easier way to do it. You'll still have to pull the air box and separate the fuel lines, but being able to look straight in with the tank out would be very helpful.
sled_guy
sled_guy
I've never taken the tank off. Give me some directions please..
