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Help me with my New F-150.

Pro-8250

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Well thanks to SnoWest, Christopher, and many Snowesters I did a 180. I decided to downsize from three vehicles to one and this is the one I decided on.
I already got the box liner, and ordered mud flaps from Weather Tech but I want to raise the front end. I am looking at kits that install above the strut and would raise it 2". They have billet or composite so which way do I go there? Both are $100/set. When I am finished do I have to get the front end aligned?
I would also like to go with some bigger/ better taller tires? Can I use the same rims? I didn't want the 20" tires that come with some of these trucks. I will stick with 18"
I need help here because I don't know squat about tires and rims. And will bigger tires effect the speedometer or warranty?
Also would like to get a bug shield and trying to decide on chrome or smoke. I do like both but my daughter is voting smoke. What do you guys like?
Any other ideas?

2017 F-150 XLT 4X4 SUPER CREW RACE RED
157" WHEELBASE 18" WHEELS 275/65R
3.5 V6 ECOBOOST W/AUTO S/S
ELEC 10 SPEED AUTO W/TOWMO
EQUIPMENT GROUP 302A
XLT CHROME PACKAGE
MAX TOW PACKAGE

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I can't help you with most of your questions but I can tell you that I have a close friend that has pretty much that same optioned truck. Only difference is the color and he has the "Sport" package I think they call it now with the 20" wheels and the matte black side decals.

And so far the MPG in it is incredible. He runs hwy 10 to work (65 mph speed limit) and is averaging 24.3 with the truck so far with about 3,000 miles on it.

Towing his 8,500 ice castle fish house/camper it seems to average in around 10-12 with no lack of power.

So congrats on the new purchase!!!!
 
My buddy has the 20" rims and last winter he slid on some ice, hit the curb and took out the tire and rim.
 
I've got the 12 of that same exact spec'd truck.

I wouldn't go with the inserts. I would go Blistein 5100s or comparable. You can decide what "rise" you want out of the front end on the Blisteins. Yes a front end alignment is needed. It changes where your vehicle rides in the suspension arc.

Also, I had 275/65R18 "P rated" on mine. Went up to 275/65R18 "E" noticeable affect on gas mileage. I'm not sure if it is the weight and/or circumference messing with the calculations or if the tires pulled it down that far. I didn't do anything to the front end to fit these tires.

When I bought mine at 42k it had those Wranglers on it, brand new. Great for highway driving. Not so much on mud, gravel, snow, and ice. Cooper ATWs on mine. Love em. I am a huge fan boy of Coopers, full disclosure.

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I've got the 12 of that same exact spec'd truck.

I wouldn't go with the inserts. I would go Blistein 5100s or comparable. You can decide what "rise" you want out of the front end on the Blisteins. Yes a front end alignment is needed. It changes where your vehicle rides in the suspension arc.

Also, I had 275/65R18 "P rated" on mine. Went up to 275/65R18 "E" noticeable affect on gas mileage. I'm not sure if it is the weight and/or circumference messing with the calculations or if the tires pulled it down that far. I didn't do anything to the front end to fit these tires.

When I bought mine at 42k it had those Wranglers on it, brand new. Great for highway driving. Not so much on mud, gravel, snow, and ice. Cooper ATWs on mine. Love em. I am a huge fan boy of Coopers, full disclosure.
Hey thanks! They actually make more sense than the 2" shim. So you went with 278/70 tires then?
I have Coopers on my Super Duty and they were junk after 20,000 miles. They cupped really bad.
Thanks again for the info, it really helped.
 
Heavier tires will reduce gas mileage, the more stop and go, the bigger the impact. Just physics. Any change in tire diameter will impact speedo accuracy, including any MPG calcs, until you reprog for tire size. Larger diameter tires will understate speed (ground speed is faster than the speedo indicates), smaller diameter tires will display a higher speed on the speedo than actual ground speed. Dramatic tire diameter changes work best with gearing changes, front and rear, which also impact MPG. You can always check MPG and speed with a GPS for compare. FWIW.
 
Heavier tires will reduce gas mileage, the more stop and go, the bigger the impact. Just physics. Any change in tire diameter will impact speedo accuracy, including any MPG calcs, until you reprog for tire size. Larger diameter tires will understate speed (ground speed is faster than the speedo indicates), smaller diameter tires will display a higher speed on the speedo than actual ground speed. Dramatic tire diameter changes work best with gearing changes, front and rear, which also impact MPG. You can always check MPG and speed with a GPS for compare. FWIW.

Completely understand what you are saying and since I switched both variables at once I don't know which one had the most effect. You can see the day I put the tires on in my fuel graphs. I haven't really cared enough to do the math to determine both. Fuel economy is something I watch more as a "health check" when it starts using noticeably more fuel the truck needs to be looked at.
 
My dealer told me if I go to a different size tire, to just take it to the local speedo shop close by and they can remedy the situation. I think I will contact them today to see.
 
Honestly I wouldn't re calibrate for a nominal tire size change. You're not going to reasonably stick anything under a leveled F150 that is going to make more than a few mph difference at highway speeds.
 
Honestly I wouldn't re calibrate for a nominal tire size change. You're not going to reasonably stick anything under a leveled F150 that is going to make more than a few mph difference at highway speeds.

The issue might be if the driver runs right under the assumed safe speeding buffer of 7-10 mph over the posted limit. Without recalibrating, the driver may assume he is safe and exceed the tolerance of the local with the radar gun. If this isn't the case with the driver, then recalibrating may not be worth it.
 
Honestly I wouldn't re calibrate for a nominal tire size change. You're not going to reasonably stick anything under a leveled F150 that is going to make more than a few mph difference at highway speeds.
One YouTube video I watched claimed if you level out the front end you can go with 34" tires all around, no problem. ?????
 
Best bet to keep the truck shifting where it should be is go up in tire size to the equivalent of the largest stock wheel/tire available, and your dealer can change the rpo code in the computer to know the difference. When I changed my last dodge from 265/70/17 to 275/60/20, my mileage was chit and it shifted at completely the wrong speed/load points. Had recalibrated and it was much better. And the chrome bug shields have a short life span before they start blistering. I'd go with smoke, or get it painted body color if smoke isn't your thing.


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Best bet to keep the truck shifting where it should be is go up in tire size to the equivalent of the largest stock wheel/tire available, and your dealer can change the rpo code in the computer to know the difference. When I changed my last dodge from 265/70/17 to 275/60/20, my mileage was chit and it shifted at completely the wrong speed/load points. Had recalibrated and it was much better. And the chrome bug shields have a short life span before they start blistering. I'd go with smoke, or get it painted body color if smoke isn't your thing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree it's not a bad idea to recalibrate for the tires. I went from 29" to 33" on my old 96' F150; shift points were way off. Recalibrated the PSOM constant for the tires and the shifting is just right. I can program for a very large range of tire sizes; no need to stay within what was ever offered stock. I'd be surprised if the new trucks aren't just as programmable.
 
I have a brand new leveling kit from autospring for your F150 id let go for 80 shipped.

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