Took sled out for ride this weekend. Let sled warm up, rode trail for a bit, made a good pull up a hill and through some POW. Got back onto road and was going easy about half throttle. I noticed the motor start to slow and hit kill switch and brake lever as it completely shut down. At first it seemed like motor seized up. Pulled the plugs and they were brown, no slag at all. Pulled the rope and the motor turned over. Then I noticed the oil pump was not bolted down. Both bolts that keep it in place had broke. The motor didn't get any oil for a period of time. Other than pulling the head and the Y-pipe to check the cylinders and the pistons, what else should I do? Any ideas/suggestions are much appreciated
Help!! Light motor seizure
- Thread starter OutermostR1
- Start date
If you lost oil to the motor there is a good chance that the crank bearings got damaged.
You have 2 choices. Bolt the pump up and hope it starts and runs OK until it grenades, or rebuild the whole thing. You more than likely took out the pistons and all the bearings.
S
Snocross 100
Member
How many miles are on the sled? If you have over 5k then u might as well rebuild it if you can afford it. Plus how often do you ride and How long do you plan to keep the sled? Just some background to tell you what i would do honestly. Plus any idea how long it had no oil pump attached? Bolts backed all the way out or broke off?
Sled is an 04 Vertical Edge 800. I bought it last december with 400 miles. It has 800+ miles now. (it would have a lot more miles but i barely got it back together after upgrading track, drivers and rails. It was my 2nd ride of the season). I try to ride at least 10-15 times during the season. I plan to keep it for a while. I would say the oil pump was detached at least for a minute or so. Made a hard pull on a hill, got stuck. Started her back up, pulled through some POW and then a light pull back up to the trail and ran for about a mile (at half throttle) on the trail when it quit. It looks like 1 bolt may have backed out some as the shank of it was still threaded in the recoil cover. The other bolt broke just inside the recoil cover
I
izzni
Well-known member
I had a oil/water pump belt break (due to the damn recoil rope breaking and getting sucked in) and ran for about a mile before I noticed. After I replaced the belt it ran just fine with excellent compression. Like rmkboxer said, if the pistons are fine (do a compression check) then the crank bearings are probably fine as well.
x2, if the pistons look good, I would dump a little oil down each spark plug hole and roll it over a couple times with spark plugs out and key off before I start it.... Good luck
Thank you all . Pulled the y pipe and one pison has some damage. From what I can see the other piston doesn't look too bad. Pulling the head this weekend to inspect the cylinders. WIll update with some pics. thanks for all the help
Not trying to steal, but
I had an eerily similar incident last weekend. Motor will rotate with primary clutch but pulls hard with the rope. Planning on inspecting pistons as well, but I am not very excited as it only has 80 miles from a rebuild!
New tough boy bearings and new crank, new jugs, seals and all, pretty frustrating. Turns out the boots were not sealed around the carbs very tight and caused a lean condition (guessing right now). Wish me luck!
Best of luck to the guy that started the post as well.
I had an eerily similar incident last weekend. Motor will rotate with primary clutch but pulls hard with the rope. Planning on inspecting pistons as well, but I am not very excited as it only has 80 miles from a rebuild!
New tough boy bearings and new crank, new jugs, seals and all, pretty frustrating. Turns out the boots were not sealed around the carbs very tight and caused a lean condition (guessing right now). Wish me luck!Best of luck to the guy that started the post as well.
I had an eerily similar incident last weekend. Motor will rotate with primary clutch but pulls hard with the rope. Planning on inspecting pistons as well, but I am not very excited as it only has 80 miles from a rebuild!
Best of luck to the guy that started the post as well.
Good luck to you as well. Let me know how it goes.
S
Snocross 100
Member
Replace pistons and rings if the cylinders are fine. Run it... In response to the second guy. Ur done rebuild the top end again. That's the most important thing to get that seal sealed good. It leans it down and toasts your top end. sorry dude.
Toast
So, I have seen a couple of you have written to go through the top end and rebuild, what checks should I do on the bottom? Run out on crank, rod damage? Thanks again, tonight is the night for the tear down, wish me luck!
So, I have seen a couple of you have written to go through the top end and rebuild, what checks should I do on the bottom? Run out on crank, rod damage? Thanks again, tonight is the night for the tear down, wish me luck!
Lucky farm kid
When the primary jams up It will give the same symptoms of a motor starting to seize when you slow down and come to a stop.It will also be hard to pull over and start.Just thinking out of the box a little.Let us Know.Crank
When the primary jams up It will give the same symptoms of a motor starting to seize when you slow down and come to a stop.It will also be hard to pull over and start.Just thinking out of the box a little.Let us Know.Crank
Tore it down
Tore the sled down last night and the cylinders don't look too bad, one was new and one was honed it appears and the 45degree lines were still evident in the cylinder, and pistons and rings appear alright. Can definitely tell it leaned out. Even with the jugs out however, the motor still turns over harder than what I thought it would. I am going to pull the flywheel tonight to make sure nothing is funny in there and also to check and see if the magnetic pickup is the light tension I am feeling as I rotate the motor around. Both pistons are free on the crank, could one of the main bearings be sticking? Thanks all again.
Tore the sled down last night and the cylinders don't look too bad, one was new and one was honed it appears and the 45degree lines were still evident in the cylinder, and pistons and rings appear alright. Can definitely tell it leaned out. Even with the jugs out however, the motor still turns over harder than what I thought it would. I am going to pull the flywheel tonight to make sure nothing is funny in there and also to check and see if the magnetic pickup is the light tension I am feeling as I rotate the motor around. Both pistons are free on the crank, could one of the main bearings be sticking? Thanks all again.
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damn...
Well, I finally got down to what is believed to be the problem. It appears that the wider bearing was installed, and the cases were not machined out. Clearances being too tight caused the rollers to crush down, which I imagine was only exacerbated by the lean condition. I think she is toast... Anyone want chassis? Perhaps some parts?
Hopefully better luck to the other guy.
Well, I finally got down to what is believed to be the problem. It appears that the wider bearing was installed, and the cases were not machined out. Clearances being too tight caused the rollers to crush down, which I imagine was only exacerbated by the lean condition. I think she is toast... Anyone want chassis? Perhaps some parts?
Hopefully better luck to the other guy.
S
Snocross 100
Member
U can pick up a motor cheap dont give up. 1150 Union bay would be sick. If not what do you want for the chassie and what exactly is it?
Still hopin
The chassis is a 2003 RMK 151. The 700 motor that was in it may just get re-worked. I wouldn't mind dropping something else in, just haven't felt much like looking. I really just want to get rid of the chassis and and maybe somebody will take parts off the motor or might need a clutch or two.
The chassis is a 2003 RMK 151. The 700 motor that was in it may just get re-worked. I wouldn't mind dropping something else in, just haven't felt much like looking. I really just want to get rid of the chassis and and maybe somebody will take parts off the motor or might need a clutch or two.
So I finally tore down my motor and it looks like the PTO side cylinder is the problem. Doesn't look like the cylinder is scarred. Aluminum is built up in a few spots on cylinder wall. Someone had suggested muriatic acid for taking the aluminum off the cylinder wall. I think my cylinder can be saved. I will try to post pics soon.
Question?? There is 2 small holes on one of the spots where my cylinder has aluminum on the wall. I am not sure how to keep the acid out of those holes so it does not eat up the aluminum. Anyone have any ideas how I can keep the acid out of the ports and these small holes??
Question?? There is 2 small holes on one of the spots where my cylinder has aluminum on the wall. I am not sure how to keep the acid out of those holes so it does not eat up the aluminum. Anyone have any ideas how I can keep the acid out of the ports and these small holes??
New Motor!!
Well, IndyDan to the rescue, he had a rebuilt matching just what I was after, and I will just drop the old stuff to him for core. Hopefully I can salvage a few more rides. The Montana snow keeps coming and I heard Cooke last weekend was still pretty fluffy! Droppin her in tonight and see if we can get a good ride on it before it gets too warm. Thanks IndyDan!!
Well, IndyDan to the rescue, he had a rebuilt matching just what I was after, and I will just drop the old stuff to him for core. Hopefully I can salvage a few more rides. The Montana snow keeps coming and I heard Cooke last weekend was still pretty fluffy! Droppin her in tonight and see if we can get a good ride on it before it gets too warm. Thanks IndyDan!!
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