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So i bought a boondockers EFI control system its all set up for my m7. Whats the best numbers for petersville. Any Help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!
HELP!!! Boondockers EFI control
- Thread starter akbuchta
- Start date
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What kind of mods does your new M7 have, ie, pipes (twin/ single), timing key (how many *'s advanced?), any head work, or porting? Do you have EGT's? Do you have a Boondockers operating manual? Things we need to know before hitting the buttons. 
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It has a D&D clutch (not sure what its set to), Torque arm relocation kit,
Y-pipe. And a larger intake from the cowling. Other then that its stock.
Y-pipe. And a larger intake from the cowling. Other then that its stock.
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I should have re-phrased my first post. I did not buy the boondockers kit, it came with the sled.The guy i bought the sled from said he bought the boondocker kit to solve some kind of fuel issue. He said a majority of the 2006 m7 had the issue.
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Yeah... Its very odd... Im not quite sure what to do with it. Im going to call Anchorage suzuki and see what they say. Im heading to Petersville to test it out this sat. so i really need that thing set correctly for Petersville elevations. Im really hoping its not something i have to continuously adjust. I was told 2006 m7 144'' rips so now im gonna find out for myself.
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akbuchta: I think you need a fuel pressure regulator, not a Boondocker. unless your plannin to mod the engine or run NOS I think I would remove it unless your well versed in its application. Catastophic burn downs get expensive. The previous owner was correct most M/F 7s had too much fuel pressure, the inline regulator solved this problem and really woke the sleds up.
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Stock M6 and M7's had midrange lean out issues is what i was told, i sent my M6 pcm in to arctic cat they simply did a reflash with the updated programming and that fixed everything...really made it a new sled, it used to overheat on the trail after only a few miles, and totally bog out in the midrange and the plugs looked lean.
The other way is to do an efi controller like your doing, all it does is intercept the injector pulse width info from the pcm and modify it to either lean out or fatten the fuel mixture. Make small adjustments form stock and monitor your plugs, youll know when its right when you get in and out of the throttle with no lag. Also take a look at your plugs after the days ride, if there black lean it out. If there white your too lean, sould be a nice tan color. Once you dial it in (unless you make some performance mods) thats it, set it and leave it!! Thats the beauty of fuel injection!!!
The other way is to do an efi controller like your doing, all it does is intercept the injector pulse width info from the pcm and modify it to either lean out or fatten the fuel mixture. Make small adjustments form stock and monitor your plugs, youll know when its right when you get in and out of the throttle with no lag. Also take a look at your plugs after the days ride, if there black lean it out. If there white your too lean, sould be a nice tan color. Once you dial it in (unless you make some performance mods) thats it, set it and leave it!! Thats the beauty of fuel injection!!!
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Shoulda just kept your REV 8..... I would sell the BD box because the only pipes your gonna get for an M7 is twins and the elevations your gonna ride at and the type of riding you do, from what josh tells me, your gonna want as much low end torque as you can get and twins wont get you there. Like said above, get the fuel regulator. Joshs sled rippd when it was stock with it and it should be a lot better with the clutch kits. Sell the box for 200 bucks, down payment on FLOATs.
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Ok... Im definitely gonna just do the fuel regulator, rather then screw with the boondockers box. It does indeed sound like a pain in the a**. How much do you think a fuel regulator would put me back? Is there aything else i should watch out for?
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Take it to Brad, at ASAC, and have him check it. you might not even need it. if so, I think they're around $100. It's actually a modification to the stock regulator at the fuel pump inside the tank. You can also run an inline main jet, in the fuel line, to take fuel off the top end...I'm running a 290 with my fuel pressure set pretty low (42 psi) and it's still pretty safe on top end.
Don't let him talk you into that 46/36 progressive helix he likes...it's too steep for climbing in deep with a stock M7. Maybe a 44/34...but so far my straight 38 is most consitent.
John
Don't let him talk you into that 46/36 progressive helix he likes...it's too steep for climbing in deep with a stock M7. Maybe a 44/34...but so far my straight 38 is most consitent.
John
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