Help! 7.3 milage. What works

[scratley]

So after selling my pos 6.0 and then buying a 2010 f-150 to get an awsome 14 mpg empty. I sold it and Found a 2000 7.3 97,000 miles. Truck is bone stock other than 4 inch lift and 35's. Looking to do a programmer, exhaust, intake. I really would like to know if anything actually works to improve milage. My 6.0 would get around 15 mpg with a programmer and 35's. The 7.3 is getting around 13.5 at 70 mph. Would be nice to get 17 with it. It is not a daily driver. But i do use it for sledding, 4wheeling stuff like that. So it will get a few long trips a year. Just looking for some honest opinions, results with what you guys have come up with? Truck will have a sled deck on it. So i really don't have a need for a ton more power. Thanks!

 

[Blk88GT]

My old 7.3 had an MBRP 4" and a Ford AIS intake. ~600 for both.

I also used an Edge Evo2 and a 6.0 trans cooler (I used it to tow my race trailer).

Keep the RPMs under 1800 and you'll get the mileage. The difference at the pumps between 68mph and 75mph towing was substantial. 15 instead of 10.

Unloaded it usually got high teens and hit 20 a few times. All hand calculated. I had 33s on it with no lift though.

 

[scratley]

Ok thanks! I am usually running under 1,800 rpm's....... AT 70 on the spedo with the 35's my GPS says i am actually doing 77. I am doing the exhaust and intake soon. I will be running the same intake you were. Did some research seems to be the best. I am a little on the fence with the programmer though. I have been reading that running a TS chip is better than an actual programmer? Thats where i am undecided.

 

[Ed Fast]

truck

I run a semi air filter and a 4 in piece of pipe. Change it a napa filer days every year. Haver lower egts than I did with the AFE. only 30 bucks too

 

[sledfreak89]

Ive got an edge programmer, 4" exhauste and 305's on my 99 7.3 and im at 1900 RPM at 65 mph..

Not sure about my milage but its not too bad compared to gassers.

Have you looked into any turbo work for better milage?


Now, just a thought. If your just using it periodically, is it really worth it to dump 1000 into programmers and such to get better gas milage? Have you calculated how many miles you have to drive in order to get the benefit from the money rather than spending the extra on fuel?

 

[scratley]

Ive got an edge programmer, 4" exhauste and 305's on my 99 7.3 and im at 1900 RPM at 65 mph..

Not sure about my milage but its not too bad compared to gassers.

Have you looked into any turbo work for better milage?


Now, just a thought. If your just using it periodically, is it really worth it to dump 1000 into programmers and such to get better gas milage? Have you calculated how many miles you have to drive in order to get the benefit from the money rather than spending the extra on fuel?

Yeah, I know what you mean. It's a toss up. Problem being way back in 2000 i had one of these with a chip. So i know what they do and how much more fun they are to drive. I am looking at a TS chip. Bout 400 bucks.....Not sure yet on exhuast. But yes i only put 5 to 7k on a year. But i do plan on keeping the truck forever. It's in like new condition and 100% rust free. Would not trade it for new one ever. Also is a bit underpowered around town. It's 4 door longbox. So there is some weight to it. But does run good at 70 to 80 down the interstate. I have never thought about touching the turbo. Is there gains to be had there in milage? So far i have decided to go with the power labs regulator spring and maybe some atf in with fuel. Wanna try one thing at a time and see what works.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

6637 filter.. google it, lots of info. cheap and from napa.

muffler delete. 4" is more for sound than anything, on stock tuning with the intake and exhaust my egts never even think of getting dangerous on 5 mile pulls near wot and max boost. with tuning.. they sneak up a little, but again, nothing to freak about.

a milder tuner really helped mine out.. i borrowed a buddys cheap plug in superchips one and even on the highest power mode driving around like a tard the thing got better milage then stock tuning.. they also are a LOT more snappy in the lower revs with some tuning.. IMO, get one of the 6 pos flip chips, usually a much better product.

 

[scratley]

So..... No muffler? Isn't that a little loud? I have heard a few with 4 inch exhuast. sounded ok. I'm ok with a little noise. But not to much

 

[scratley]

6637 filter.. google it, lots of info. cheap and from napa.

muffler delete. 4" is more for sound than anything, on stock tuning with the intake and exhaust my egts never even think of getting dangerous on 5 mile pulls near wot and max boost. with tuning.. they sneak up a little, but again, nothing to freak about.

a milder tuner really helped mine out.. i borrowed a buddys cheap plug in superchips one and even on the highest power mode driving around like a tard the thing got better milage then stock tuning.. they also are a LOT more snappy in the lower revs with some tuning.. IMO, get one of the 6 pos flip chips, usually a much better product.

So does the filter just hook up to existing tube to airbox? Also did you end up with turbo flutter from this mod? Did you change your housing also? Thanks!

 

[rdr99]

The best thing for mileage would be to take off the 35's. DP tuner are pretty good, you can also add a different compressor wheel and housing. Check out www.Powerstrokenation.com or www.thedieselgarage.com for lots more info.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

So does the filter just hook up to existing tube to airbox? Also did you end up with turbo flutter from this mod? Did you change your housing also? Thanks!

you just cut out the stock airbox to keep the battery tray part, then use a short section of 4' exhaut pipe to adapte the two female hose/filter ends together. I did notice a LOT more turbo noise after this mod, and due to the increase airflow i did start to get compressor surge more often, its certain speeds for me as mines an manual and an auto would usually shift around the points i hit it on mine.

I have an obs turbo sitting in my garage i can take the wheel off of to stop the surge, but i just cant bring myself to dig into it lately.. sleds are keeping me busy working on stuff.

 

[scratley]

Sounds good! I will try it next weekend. I am also going to go with a ts chip with Matt's tunes. Sounds like one of the best setup's you can get. Back in 2000 when i had my last 7.3 i put a superchip in it. 80hp chip. It pulled like crazy! BUt on a hard long pull if rpm's dropped bellow 1,900 turbo would start sputtering bad. Also check engine light came on Just hit the tow haul and boom came right out of it. Never addressed the issue but figured it was injecter pressure. My 6.0 never did this. Maybe it was lack of air?

 

[Coldfinger]

I'm sure you did this - hand calc mileage and adjust that for tire size if speedo is not calibrated for tires.

 

[scratley]

Yeah i went off my GPS. Idk maybe it isn't doing to bad. At 75 it figures out 2 be 14.3 on the last 2 tanks....... All interstate with winter fuel. Haven't figured it around town. Milage did get worse the closer i got to mn. My guess is the soy-diesel. I was in New Mexico on this last trip also and with temps around 70 it did little over 15. Truck does seem to work alot harder than my 6.0 to keep it at speed. But still rarely shifts down. Like i said truck is bone stock. Looking at either the ts or dp chips. After throwing another 1,500 lbs on the truck i think it will be nice to have a little extra

 

[Blk88GT]

There is no tow/haul button on anything up to 2002 (at least). It's simply an overdrive on/off button.

 

[scratley]

Lol! Yes ur right. Guess i am so use to the tow haul with my newer rigs that i forgot. It was just an overdrive button. I would set the cruise and when it started to flutter just hit the overdrive button with the cruise left on and just watched the tack. Hit it back when i hit the top of the hill. Worked well, and seemed to shift smoother than when it did it on it's own. I did have the larger valve in that tranny. This truck does not have it...... Can feel it already. But it shifts nice none the less. Lotsa great reding on the sites mentioned above. Wow! Been out of the diesel loop awhile. Nice to be back. Look forward to trying new things with my new/old toy.

 

[pigbristles]

A superchips really help my 2000. I lose 1 mpg for every 100 rpm over 1800. Jim

 

[dmkhnr]

I've got the exact same truck 2000 F250 crew cab long bed lariat.
Just hit 100k last week.
Your best bet is to lose the 4" lift and 35"s. I run 285"s and a dp 80 hp tow chip. Truck gets 15mpg, and 17mpg on long hwy drives. It's a HEAVY Truck, and is as good as anything else while running around empty, but when under load remember that it's 11 years old. It's not going to beat anybody over the top of a hill, but it will pull your load. Just remember, it's 11 years old so don't rag on her.

A brand new truck equipped like mine would be $50k on a dealers lot. No way I'd give it up for the $teens, I'd need at least half which just isn't going to happen.

 

[scratley]

I have thought about getting rid of the lift and tires. But damn they look so good on the long box. Mine turned 100 this week. And yes i know it's an old truck, and i do love the truck. Plan on keeping forever. I was just curious to what works. Sounds from all the reading i have done that nothing really works all that great. And if i get 15 to 17 with my setup i am doing good. I might just leave it bone stock for now. It does run like its new. I switched to full synthetic last month. Due to cold temps and it will take me a year to put 5k on it. I do need a set of batteries though. They are week, so thats my first task at hand. Looking like 200 plus for those. Anyone getting them any cheaper?

 

[specialk6r]

Looking cool is expensive. Ditch the lift, penis-extension tires, and any extra crap you've got tacked on (bug guard, mud flaps, visor, 6 antennas that aren't even hooked up, etc.) You're looking to make a brick slip through the air, so anything you can do to reduce drag is good.

A winter front will give a solid 1 MPG in the winter, because it not only keeps your intake charge temperature higher (ideal is somewhere between 60 and 90 degrees) but it also pushes the air around you truck rather than letting it jumble up inside your hood.