Helix Cut for 2012 Pro

[trackvs2wheels]

Alright guys, I would like to LEARN more about what the cut in a helix does/means to sled performance...

Can someone explain to me what the three numbers relate to that are typically stamped on the back of a helix...such as 58/38/36?

I changed my Pro helix from the stock (which I cannot remember the numbers of right now for some reason) to the 58/38/36 under recommendation from a guy I met on the snow with the last name of Burandt, or something like that anyway, I cannot remember

Anyone help out a guy who doesn’t quite understand clutching as well as he should????

 

[MOWER800]

?

I'm a dumas but I think the 58 is like 1st gear .36 is the average length of time spent in 1st till it shifts to 2nd or the fineshing angle 38
or something like that
signed dumas

 

[hyperduc]

The numbers you have listed are helix ramp angles, the higher the number the steeper the angle.

The ramp angles will either be straight (same angle throughout the entire helix) or progressive (the ramp angle will either decrease or increase along the helix).

Mountain riders either use a straight angle or a progressive with a high angle decreasing into a shallower angle. The idea with the progressive helix here is to give you some power to get up up and going rather quickly, then once youre up decreasing the angle to provide additional track speed.

Primary weight and spring, along with secondary helix and spring all play into the equation so I would suggest going with a setup from a company with mountain experience. TCP in Utah has a great set-up for this sled, I have seen it give a two to three sled length advantage to stock vs. stock drags.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

The numbers you have listed are helix ramp angles, the higher the number the steeper the angle.

The ramp angles will either be straight (same angle throughout the entire helix) or progressive (the ramp angle will either decrease or increase along the helix).

Mountain riders either use a straight angle or a progressive with a high angle decreasing into a shallower angle. The idea with the progressive helix here is to give you some power to get up up and going rather quickly, then once youre up decreasing the angle to provide additional track speed.

Primary weight and spring, along with secondary helix and spring all play into the equation so I would suggest going with a setup from a company with mountain experience. TCP in Utah has a great set-up for this sled, I have seen it give a two to three sled length advantage to stock vs. stock drags.

good answer, heres my take on it initial angle (in your case 58) is first gear, it shifts out to the finish angle(in your case 38) and the amount of distance it takes to transition from first gear to finish angle(in your case .36") which means on most helix you will be into the finish angle by the time you hit 15-18 mph track speed..the angles are progressive, meaning it starts at 58 but the angle is constantly changing to 38 at full shift out..you run more initial because at slower speeds the motor can pull more helix and thus acelerate harder, but it cant pull that much at higher speeds..also the steeper the angles..the faster the upshift..but the slower the backshift....its all a balancing act...

 

[Bull]

a good way to learn is talking to "old school" guys that have been around, if you know any. but also a bit of reading. this has been around for years, but is also updated enough to give you a foundational understanding.....

http://www.amazon.com/Olav-Aaens-clutch-tuning-handbook/dp/B0006R954Y

some is also opinion, art, personal preference.....